My engine nightmare

Ok.

Before everyone gets confused, let me preface this by saying I have two identical 1986 Mustang GTs. The one I am currently fixing up is the junker that sat in the back 40 for 7 years. I am in the process of installing new shocks/struts and caster camber plates. Other than cosmetic issues, it is in 100% stock form and is running well.

This post is about my OTHER 86 mustang GT.

I have an 86 Mustang GT Convertible that is in storage. It is in storage because the heads have a leaky valve and it cannot pass smog. I pulled the E7TE heads off and spent a lot of money remaking them (the e6's were previously removed and scrapped). I wanted to build a quick Mustang that looked as stock as possible. As a result, I spent entirely too much to have a set of stock E7TE heads fully ported and larger valves installed- 1.84 and 1.54. The goal was to create a head that flowed as good or better than a set of GT40's but retained the stock appearance of an E7 head. I spent all of this money, and then went to install them and found that the 86 pistons had no valve reliefs and they would not clear the bigger valves.

I now have an 87LX 5.0 with an auto transmission that is basically a rolling chassis. The engine is a very strong but stock 87 motor.

I also already have the following parts to go on the car:

Edelbrock Performer RPM (part number 7126)
Profession Products--70mm Throttle Body-69201
Professional Products--70mm EGR Plate-- 69501
BBK Shorty Headers
Off-Road H-Pipe
Flowmaster Cat-back exhaust


I also plan on putting a new speed-density friendly cam in.

My idea is to take my redone E7TE heads, slap them on the 87 shortblock, drop it into the 86, strap on the extra parts and theoretically, I should have a very strong running mustang.

Is this a sound idea or could I have some sort of trouble I fail to see?


Edit:

I just thought of another option: Skip swapping the motors and just rob the E7TE heads off of the 87... and then strap on my power adders. That is less work... I wonder which I should do.

Cobra912 said:

notch the pistons on the 86 to clear the valves - problem solved! then bolt on the other goodies and a way you go!

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That requires a machine shop or some other technical knowlege. I am good at building up long blocks but as far as the short block is concerned, I don't like dealing with internals that require balancing and everything else.

If I notched the pistons, would I need to remove them?

dcurtis said:

No, you do not ''need'' to remove them to notch them. Seen many people do it with the pistons in. Just keep it clean. And I second that it won't look like a sleeper with an eddy intake.

Click to expand...

Maybe not... but the heads will look stock. If I can represent a stock long block with a heavier car (convertible) some of the locals with simple bolt-ons (like an edlebrock intake) might consider themselves equal.

I spent around $900 having the work done. It is still cheaper than new aftermarket heads, but close enough that had I to do it over again, I would have just gone with some aluminum aftermarket heads with a lower compression ratio so that I can run some heavy boost.

Eventually I will strap on a 8-9psi supercharger (5-10 years down the road) and then the "sleeper" look will be "blown" all to haites anyway. At that point I will will probably have to replace the fuel delivery system and injectors, switch to MAF, and after all that expense, I might as well buy aftermarket heads at that point.

My other thought for porting the E7's and adding big valves is the should actually have better low-end torque than even the aftermarkets. I guess I will only find out once I slap these bad boys on and run'em.