My first yoke change.

Jimmys66 · Jun 18, 2007

I've owned this car for 19 years and never changed a yoke on it or anything else for that matter.

I'm assuming I can pull the old yoke of the 9" with a puller. No problems there. When I put the new yoke on, can I just blast the nut tight with an impact or is there something more tech. that I need to be doing?

geostang351 · Jun 19, 2007

Jimmys66 said:
I've owned this car for 19 years and never changed a yoke on it or anything else for that matter.

I'm assuming I can pull the old yoke of the 9" with a puller. No problems there. When I put the new yoke on, can I just blast the nut tight with an impact or is there something more tech. that I need to be doing?

If I remember correctly, you probably will not need a puller to remove the yolk. And assembling is simly insert the yolk and tighting the nut.

Jimmys66 · Jun 19, 2007

Thanks. I figured that I would play it safe and just ask.

68RCodeConv · Jun 20, 2007

Sorry, it's not that simple. You have to get the torque right or the gear teeth will not mesh properly and the gears will make noise. Som have a one-shot crush sleeve that has to be replaced.

Back when I was young I did not know this. I pulled the snout to replace the pinion seal. I torqued the pinion nut as tight as I could and the gears howled like crazy after that.

Jimmys66 · Jun 20, 2007

68RCodeConv said:
Sorry, it's not that simple. You have to get the torque right or the gear teeth will not mesh properly and the gears will make noise. Som have a one-shot crush sleeve that has to be replaced.

Back when I was young I did not know this. I pulled the snout to replace the pinion seal. I torqued the pinion nut as tight as I could and the gears howled like crazy after that.

This is what I was afraid of. I was curious if I could pull the pinion gear out of mesh from the ring.

Any idea how tight?

68RCodeConv · Jun 21, 2007

There's no "one size fits all" torque specification. It has to be the right amount to get the backlash right.

GoinBroke · Jun 21, 2007

I recently did mine and I got a feel for how tight it was when I broke it loose then retightened to the same degree. Probaly not the most scientific way of doing it but it runs fine. If you wanted to be sure you could measure the depths of the nut with a dial caliper before taking the nut off and install accordingly.

Jimmys66 · Jun 21, 2007

68RCodeConv said:
There's no "one size fits all" torque specification. It has to be the right amount to get the backlash right.

I'd like to not have to pull the diff. and have it set up again.

Jimmys66 · Jun 21, 2007

GoinBroke said:
I recently did mine and I got a feel for how tight it was when I broke it loose then retightened to the same degree. Probaly not the most scientific way of doing it but it runs fine. If you wanted to be sure you could measure the depths of the nut with a dial caliper before taking the nut off and install accordingly.

That's not a bad idea. Maybe I can get real close with some measuring and the right "feel".

I forgot about the crush sleeve. I'd have to be real carefull not to go to far. I just changed carriers a few months ago. I had a rear end howl for years that I couldn't dignose. It ended up being a hair line crack behind the pinion bearing.

The noise is annoying. I'd like to not hear it again.

RUSTYNUT · Jun 23, 2007

IMHO do it right the first time. It will cost alot more to replace broken parts. Beside the crush sleeve you should replace the pinion seal.

Jimmys66 · Jun 24, 2007

RUSTYNUT said:
IMHO do it right the first time. It will cost alot more to replace broken parts. Beside the crush sleeve you should replace the pinion seal.

The diff has only been back in the car a couple of months. I had a new case and a detroit true trac installed with my existing gears. New bearings, new seals.

Any reason I should change the seal with the yoke change?

Rusty67 · Jun 24, 2007

Jimmys66 said:
The diff has only been back in the car a couple of months. I had a new case and a detroit true trac installed with my existing gears. New bearings, new seals.

Any reason I should change the seal with the yoke change?

The seal costs next to nothing and if you are pulling something that goes through a seal its usually a good idea to replace the seal too.

Jimmys66 · Jun 24, 2007

I had a chat with the guy that set my diff up the last time and he is in total agreement. I could get really lucky and might be ok, but putting the yoke on is meant to be done while setting up the diff.

My new driveshaft and yoke will go in the trunk, I'll drive the car to his house and I'll do the swap there after he installs the yoke.

So much for this being a simple project. Oh well, It might cost me a little more but at this point the new alum driveshaft, solid u-joints, and big yoke will make for a bullet proof combo.

Rusty67 · Jun 24, 2007

Since he is doing the setup on it again, have him make a shim instead of a crush sleeve. If a shim is made and used instead of a crush sleeve you can take it apart and put it back together to do service as many times as you need to as long as you use the same ring and pinion set.

dennis112 · Jun 24, 2007

Jimmys66 said:
Oh well, It might cost me a little more but at this point the new alum driveshaft, solid u-joints, and big yoke will make for a bullet proof combo.

So, did you get your aluminum shaft and stuff from Mark? Just wondering as my shaft upgrade has been doing great.

Here are 2 things that I found that might help:

1. The metal cover over the top of the pinion will probably need modified for the larger pinion yoke, assuming you went with the 1330. I ran a grinder on mine until the yoke cleared. It would be better to find the correct one at a salvage yard.

2. If you also bought the U-bolt kit from him, pay special attention to make sure they are seated tightly against the u-joint cap when you tighten the nuts.

Good Luck and let us know how it all works out.

Jimmys66 · Jun 25, 2007

dennis112 said:
So, did you get your aluminum shaft and stuff from Mark? Just wondering as my shaft upgrade has been doing great.

Here are 2 things that I found that might help:

1. The metal cover over the top of the pinion will probably need modified for the larger pinion yoke, assuming you went with the 1330. I ran a grinder on mine until the yoke cleared. It would be better to find the correct one at a salvage yard.

2. If you also bought the U-bolt kit from him, pay special attention to make sure they are seated tightly against the u-joint cap when you tighten the nuts.

Good Luck and let us know how it all works out.

Yep, I bought my driveshaft parts from Mark. Nice guy, good customer service, great price and delivered to my house in 3 days. Fantastic!

I went with the 1330. In retrospect, I was probably fine with the smaller stock unit but hey, I spend money on dumber things.

Thanks again for the tip.

My first yoke change.

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