"More info...How and where did you put the shims? Some detals, man."
Remove the black plastic cover mounted above the radiator just rearward of the grille. Remove the hood latch bracket (4 bolts, plus one that retains a stay at the bottom of the readiator). Shim between the bracket and the top of the radiator support. Replace all bolts and fasteners.
Remove the black plastic cover mounted above the radiator just rearward of the grille. Remove the hood latch bracket (4 bolts, plus one that retains a stay at the bottom of the readiator). Shim between the bracket and the top of the radiator support. Replace all bolts and fasteners.
98yellowgtdropt said:
98yellowgtdropt - Check out my webpage with the photos of the car. You'll find what you need here:
www.yellowmustangregistry.com/Brightmare.html
If you haven't already, don't forget to register that yellow 99 on the Yellow Mustang Registry.
Everybody else, thanks for the compliments. I've discovered that sometimes the best mods aren't big bucks.
stylin99 said:
I hear you and was thinking along the same line, but read the thread about the warp problem. I need to research it further.
It may have something to do with the hole in the hood of our Mach 1s and adjusting them so that the fit around the shaker is right. I want them because I hate the prop.
From the picture, it appears they are riveted to the hood. Is that true?
My brackets are fastened to the hood with pop rivets included in the kit. It required a lot of force to install them, but they are really secure. The fiberglass channel section is too thin for a tapped hole to be strong enough, and there is no access to the inside of the channel with the stock hood, so a blind fastener must be used.
If you don't like the permanency of a riveted installation, you could drill an access hole nearby in the channel section (perhaps 3/4" diameter), then use conventional nuts and screws. The access hole would not significantly weaken the hood, and could even be filled with a plastic plug for cosmetic reasons.
Self-tapping sheet metal screws are used to retain the lower bracket to the chassis.
If you don't like the permanency of a riveted installation, you could drill an access hole nearby in the channel section (perhaps 3/4" diameter), then use conventional nuts and screws. The access hole would not significantly weaken the hood, and could even be filled with a plastic plug for cosmetic reasons.
Self-tapping sheet metal screws are used to retain the lower bracket to the chassis.
I just finished putting mine on and I must say that it's very enjoyable not having to us the prop rod. When closing the hood, about 10-12" from latching, the rods pretty much release the hood and I can drop it closed just as before. The rivits are the hardest thing to do since they are so thick and you need a real grip to snap them off. Couldn't be happier with install and wish all aftermarket installs were as simple.