My next set of upgrades...?

i've allways thought the 5.0 sounded better with a H pipe.

its expensive, but its good stuff. Magnaflow rocks, love the sound, and its all stainless.

prochamber

I've heard chambered mufflers and x-pipes on 5.0s don't go good together. I've heard off-road xpipes on some really worked up 5.0s and of course it sounds awesome but I think sound wise for a stock 5.0 an H-pipe or Prochamber is your best bet. Especially if you are looking for a catted one.

If you're gonna have kitties your best bet would be Flowmasters and a catted high flow H-pipe. IMO that will give you the best sound and performance for the buck.

Gears will give you the most bang for the buck. adding a set of 3.73 gears (with a five speed) will make you car feel like it gained 75-100 horses.

My 95 GT with MAC o/r H pipe and JBA catback:

http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g28/mustang6tee8/?action=view&current=CIMG4095-1.flv

http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g28/mustang6tee8/?action=view&current=CIMG4098.flv

I once had a self ported E7 combo with shortys and a Bassani x cat mid pipe.

Fit great and the quality was first rate

As for sound ... I was workin it with the oem stock catback so it was pretty quiet.

Grady

Beneficial Upgrades:
-3.55 or 3.73 gears (Ford Racing gears whine a little bit more, due to cutting in one pass manufacturing, Motive or Richmond are better, and in some cases, cheaper). 3.73's are everyone's favorite for a reason: snappy acceleration, awesome pull in higher gears and higher speeds.
-Non-adjustable pro3i upper and lower control arms (reduces wheel hop, good for more grip during acceleration, solid handling), pro3i's are almost identical to MM, and are about $35 cheaper.
-Full length, weld-on subframe connectors (greatly reduce body flex, great for cornering), Maximum Motorsports is THE best brand, and definately worth the money.
-Lowering springs, any well-known brand will do (no lower than 1.5", I can guarantee from experience that you'll scrape from time to time, but it's really based on your preference).
-Upgraded struts and shocks to go along with stiffer/shorter springs (I don't suggest Bilsteins because 1.) expensive for a daily driven car 2.) probably too stiff of a ride for a DD street car, Koni, Edelbrock, Tokico are all good) -I found a set of Tokicos off of a 2003 Mach 1 for $200, search the classifieds and eBaymotors.com for deals like that.
-13" front brake kit (www.buyfordracing.com has a Mach 1 front brake kit with Mach 1/ 03-04 Cobra calipers, Brembo rotors, and stainless steel brake lines for $309- the CHEAPEST deal you will find on the internet, believe me, I've looked!).
-ANYTHING that lets the driveline spin easier- lightweight flywheels, aluminum driveshaft, lighter harmonic balancers (however too light, get more engine vibration)- "frees" up horsepower, because it takes less power to turn it.

For periodic maintainance:
-NAPA Gold oil filters (Motorcraft are no bueno).
-Mobile 1 synthetic oil (if you have no front/rear main seal leaks).
-Seafoam!! (every 15,000 miles- half bottle in the PCV valve, other half in the gas tank).
-New radiator, heater, etc hoses.
-(if needed) new distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires, spark plugs.
-WaterWetter states to lower temperatures by about 15 degrees (a great thing to have, especially down here in Texas).

Inefficient upgrades for a daily driver/under 285-300rwhp:
-4.10 gears or taller
-Fuel system upgrades (injectors, pump, etc), waste of money until you can get a head/intake/cam (taller than B303) upgrade (which will take you to
~300rwhp).
-Suspension bushings no stiffer than polyurethane.
-Computer chip, dyno/custom tuning (no real need unless you mess with heads, intake, or internal engine components).


Now, all of these things are not too "drastic" of modifications. You don't have to mess with engine components, and the suspension geometry isn't that much of a change. Most of these changes can be installed by yourself, a few friends, and some know-how. Gears and (weld-on) subframe connectors should be installed by a shop, to correctly shim gears/to make sure the car is leveled out so that the body isn't bound up after SFC's are welded in.

Of course, all of these suggestions are my personal opinion. Different people want different modifications and expectations out of their cars, and that is what makes this hobby so damn addicting and satisfying. Feel free to ask me questions about any of the mods. Good luck to you!

PS- OK, Grady...JT... time for ya'll to chime in and give your opinions, which strangly are always the right thing to do!!

check my post from earlier today (tuesday) about my exhaust setup to see if you like it rather than an X-pipe.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=661397

A Nitrous Express kit would be something to consider.

mustang6tee8 said:

PS- OK, Grady...JT... time for ya'll to chime in and give your opinions, which strangly are always the right thing to do!!

Click to expand...

Now hold on there!

JT is the one who knows the right thing to do

I just got lots of opinions and post em up

That looks like some pretty good stuff you put up above

however

I would not sleep good at night if I was at or close to 285rwhp and still runnin 19's & stock pump.

If one is gonna do this ... at least get a bigger pump so you can have a sufficient amount of volume to keep up with the request of elevated fuel pressure you are gonna be needing from an afpr.

The tiny 19's are done at around 265rwhp at stock pressure IMHO. Even all the more so if you be a GT kinda guy and are still runnin the stock pump.

To me ... its a no bainer if you consider this thought

Ford did not put 24's and a larger pump in the Cobra just for .........
no good reason.

I know larger inj's and pump will cost ya
but
runnin too lean can too

Grady