I got my new motor in and it runs nice when it wants to the last couple days its been acting up mostly when im driving on the hwy then it started doing it in town it will spit,sputter,bog and make poping noises out of the intake at low rpm if i get on the throttle it goes away one minute it will do it alot the next it would run perfect sometimes for an hour. It pops like its out of time but it cant jump in and out of time could it?anyone got any idea what it could be thanks
my stang is having weird issues
- Thread starter westridez
- Start date
Scones
Member
actually it is possible for your timing to jump around. my buddy schlodes was having this same issue with his 84 SVO....I'll let him know about this thread and maybe he can help you out.
Since you are a Mass air upgrade, dump the codes. You will have to use the voltmeter or test lamp method since you probably don't have a working Check Engine Light.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
Either you jumpered to the wrong wire or you have a serious wiring problem. Go back and check the sites for the self-test connector drawing. It sounds like you jumpered the fuel pump control circuit to ground, which would make the pump run anytime the ignition switch was on.westridez said:
Diagram courtsey of Tmoss & Stang&2birds.
If you jumpered the lt green wire on the self-test connector, you used the wrong wire.
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