well My fuse for the FUEL PUMP in the engine compartment keeps blowing. Its the 20 yellow one. I have hooked up a new ccrm and it still blew. I have unhooked the inertia switch to make sure it wasnt the fuel pump grounding out and it still blew. I have traced the wires to the best of my ability all over the engine compartment and in the trunk and have not found one wire that isnt covered. what could be going on? I cant drive and its killing me.....
Narrowed it down but still need ideas
- Thread starter CivicEater
- Start date
Here's a schematic for ya.
click here for wiring diagram
I would suggest measuring the resistance across the fuse posts while the ignition switch is off then on. You will be able to tell if you have a ground problem pretty easily doing this. I won't go into detail on all the tests you can do, but if the schematic doesn't help you I will try to find you a detailed troubleshooting page on testing with a multimeter.
click here for wiring diagram
I would suggest measuring the resistance across the fuse posts while the ignition switch is off then on. You will be able to tell if you have a ground problem pretty easily doing this. I won't go into detail on all the tests you can do, but if the schematic doesn't help you I will try to find you a detailed troubleshooting page on testing with a multimeter.
Thanks for the bump yellowcobra....
95 Stocker....What fuse posts would I measure(I only know of 1)? How could measure with the ignition "on" becuase the second I hit it on the fuse blows so I wouldnt be able to measure past that point with it on right? lol that schematic kind of confused me but then again I have been looking at wiring diagrams all day so I am confused already.....
95 Stocker....What fuse posts would I measure(I only know of 1)? How could measure with the ignition "on" becuase the second I hit it on the fuse blows so I wouldnt be able to measure past that point with it on right? lol that schematic kind of confused me but then again I have been looking at wiring diagrams all day so I am confused already.....
mo_dingo
20+ Year Stangneter 
CivicEater said:
If a 20 AMP fuse is blowing, then a 30amp fuse will do the same. It will draw as much current as possible until the fuse blows, or your battery goes BOOM!
Here is a thought. Run your own wires. Until you solve this, you need a car to drive, right? It will take only a few minutes. The black wire off of the fuel pump is the ground wire. The brown/pink wire is the hot wire. (according to the Haynes Manual anyway.)
Follow the existing ground wire (black), and make sure it is properly grounded and secure. It shouldn't run very far. Then you will know your ground wire is good.
Secondly, take the brown/pink wire, and disconnect it from the inertia switch. Don't cut it, but rather remove it from the plastic housing. Then run a wire all the way to the positive terminal on the battery. Somewhere inbetween, near the drivers seat, wire in a switch (get at radioshack for cheap). Also, wire in a 20A fuse. That way something BAAADDDDD doesn't happen. Then connect the new wire you ran to the brown/pink wire you removed from the inertia switch. Now you are ready to go! But, if the fuse does blow when you activate the switch, it means that the short is on the brown/pink wire, inbetween the fuel pump and the inertia switch. That will actually help you a lot as you just found where the short is!
Here is what I can do to solve the short problem. Follow the positive fuel pump wire (Brown/Pink) from the fuel pump to the inertia switch. Make sure you are able to see the wire everywhere it goes. Look for missing insulation. If no abrasions appear, test that section of the wire. Run a "jumper wire" inbetween the inertia switch, and the fuel pump. This will bypass this section of the factory wiring, and will determine if the short is in this section. Now, install a new fuse, and turn the ignition on. If the fuse blows, you know that the brown/pink section is not causing the short.
Leave this jumper wire intact, because we are not 100% sure that the brown/pink wire is not grounded somewhere (probably isn't, but just in case).
With the jumper wire ran, next look to the wire that goes from the inertia switch to the CCRM AND the PCM (The wire is Dark Green/Yellow). It goes to both places, so the short is somewhere here. I don't know how the wire connects to the CCRM and the PCM, but my guess is that it's going to be a PITA to disconnect them. First go over the wires to see if you can see any insulation rubbed off. Follow them carefully, as the short is here somewhere.
I don't think you will be able to run jumper wires unless you cut & splice into the factory wiring. This isn't a good idea, but it will tell you where the short is. Post back and let me know if you made any progress. If you need to, cut the wire where it connects to the PCM (about 6-12 inches from the PCM). Then run a jumper wire from the PCM to the jumper wire you created earlier (inertia switch to fuel pump wire).
Put a new fuse in, and turn the ingition on. See if you blow a fuse. If you don't, you found where your short is. If not, you need to make a jumper wire for the CCRM to the inertia switch to fuel pump jumper wire.
Post back before you cut into wires on the PCM or CCRM. Let us know your progress and we will go from there.
Scott
AHHHH.......damn..I got the fuel pump to kick on by putting an inline fuse and wire to the inertia switch and I can hear it turn on but the car still wont start. I tried leaveing the pump on and I tried just letting it kick on for 3 seconds and shutting it off......My buddy said since Im bypassing the PCM then the computer isnt kicking the injectors on....what is going on?
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