necessary to change pushrods with cam change?

Modular2v

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#1

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i put a new cam in my 331....checked the piston to valve clearence and it is fine...do i still need different pushrods?

 

Modular2v

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#2

• Oct 7, 2005

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?

 

Grn92LX

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#3

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You need to buy hardened pushrods if you have guideplates. Are you using the afr's?

You also need to check the pushrods length geometry. Color the valve tip with black marker and then set that rocker and rotate the engine at least twice and check the wear mark. I believe you want it in the center and less than .080".

 

Modular2v

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#4

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not using the afrs at the moment....making sure all the fresh internals hold together and nothing goes a fly b4 i put the afrs on

 

Grn92LX

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#5

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Still using stock heads? Just check the geometry like I said. Then you'll have to do it again once you do the afr's and you'll need hardend pushrods since (assuming you're doing it right) you'll be using a stud mount head.

 

Modular2v

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Oct 10, 2005

#6

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i know im doing it right..... but i guess the real question here is if you need a different length pushrod for different cam/heads if there is no piston to valve contact

 

88GT17MA

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#7

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I would get an adjustable pushrod and check the length. Just because the valves arent hitting a piston, doesnt mean their all opening/closing correctly.

 

Grn92LX

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Modular2v said:

i know im doing it right..... but i guess the real question here is if you need a different length pushrod for different cam/heads if there is no piston to valve contact

Click to expand...

You won't know until you measure. Just b/c piston to valve clearance is fine doesn't mean the pushrod length is fine. Check the way I said by coloring the valve tip with a black marker, set that rocker and rotate the engine at least twice, then look at the contact patch. I believe it should be close to centered and less than .080" travel. I believe the shorter the wear mark, the better.

 

Modular2v

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#9

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Grn92LX said:

You won't know until you measure. Just b/c piston to valve clearance is fine doesn't mean the pushrod length is fine. Check the way I said by coloring the valve tip with a black marker, set that rocker and rotate the engine at least twice, then look at the contact patch. I believe it should be close to centered and less than .080" travel. I believe the shorter the wear mark, the better.

Click to expand...

when u say valve tip i assume you mean the valve itself?

 

NKau

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#10

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You won't know what length you need until you get your new heads on and check with an adjustable pushrod length checker. Too many variables to consider (head gasket thickness, deck height, if heads are milled, etc.)

 

Grn92LX

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Yes the tip of the valve that the roller part of the rocker slides on.

 

Rick 91GT

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#12

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Mike's right on

 

Grn92LX

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#13

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I learned from the best, Rick

By the way, Rick, do you know what size pushrods afr 185's usually take since i know you've dealt with them a lot? I checked on my friends 306 and stock size seems about right. Also, how do you tell a hardened pushrod from a non hardened pushrod? Trying to get this 306 finished up so we can run it before the snow comes.

 

Modular2v

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#14

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yeah rick just tell me what size pushrods i need for the afrs lol jk oh and rick the afrs are 58 cc lol on flat top probes ha ha

 

rd

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#15

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If the pushrods you have otherwise fit, and are hardened if needed, you can reuse the pushrods.

I have done both, changed them to make sure I had all new stuff, and also put a random group of used ones in, both approaches have worked fine. My 82, with used stock pushrods on a leftover group of stock stamped rockers works fine with my Rhoads Lifters from 1987, and my Comp Camps valvesprings from 2003. None of that stuff was from the same engine.

 

Rick 91GT

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#16

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Mod, hehehe...just ship me the motor




Mike on most "0" deck blocks, with a .040 gasket, on a AFR I find a 6.25" works, but do the marker trick anyway to check it out. Just make sure the roller on the rockers goes out towards the header, first then rolls back towards the intake.

What brand/model pushrod is it? Rick91GT@suscom.net

 

Modular2v

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#17

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Rick 91GT said:

Mod, hehehe...just ship me the motor




Mike on most "0" deck blocks, with a .040 gasket, on a AFR I find a 6.25" works, but do the marker trick anyway to check it out. Just make sure the roller on the rockers goes out towards the header, first then rolls back towards the intake.

What brand/model pushrod is it? Rick91GT@suscom.net

Click to expand...

hell if i wasnt a broke college student i would have u just do the whole set up lol.... at least this way i will learn how to do everything myself. hope your still around here in a couple years (when im out of college and not broke) because i plan to go with a 393 or 408 later down the road

 

Rick 91GT

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I don't plan on going anywhere RNH Performance is here to stay. If things keep up this could turn into my day job. I live and breathe this stuff 24/7....45-50 hours a week as a design engineer during the day, then another 40-60 as RNH Performance at night/weekend.

Thanks for all the continued support...

 

Grn92LX

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#19

• Oct 11, 2005

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I sent you an Email, Rick.

 

Modular2v

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#20

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Rick 91GT said:

I don't plan on going anywhere RNH Performance is here to stay. If things keep up this could turn into my day job. I live and breathe this stuff 24/7....45-50 hours a week as a design engineer during the day, then another 40-60 as RNH Performance at night/weekend.

Thanks for all the continued support...

Click to expand...

WOW my hat is off to you with much respect rick, i wish i could do something like that, cars are the only real passion i have in life as far as working goes! Keep up the good work and if all goes right consider me a customer as soon as im out of college