Need 60ft help

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mudrun1

New Member

Sep 23, 2010

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Sep 23, 2010

#1

• Sep 23, 2010

• #1

I have searched all the other suspension threads and can't find my answer, so here it goes.

The car is an 01 gt with a stroker and N20. 440hp/500tq, coming by way of about a 200 shot. The car runs great after traction, in almost 3rd gear. My problem is that I can not get lower than a 1.95 60ft on the gas. all motor i can get about down in the 1.80s. I have sub frames, adjustable upper and lower rear control arms, eibach pro kit springs, stage 3 clutch, 4.10s, cobra diff, 31splines, pro star wheels rear, stock 17s front, no sway bar, et street radials 15x10.5x27 and lakewood shocks. The front is 90/10 the rear is 50/50 also the pinion angle is -3. I have a line lock so I know the burn outs are good. The car runs hard but I can not get in it in about the first 300 feet. It spins off the line and it spins again if I get back in hard, until the bottom of third gear.

What am i doing wrong? Is this just too much gas for the tire? I need some serious help, this car should be fast, but do to traction it is not.

 

twogts4us

15 Year Member

Apr 1, 2004

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Dunedin, FL

Sep 23, 2010

#2

• Sep 23, 2010

• #2

Is this a progressive shot of gas? What is your window?

 

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mudrun1

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Sep 23, 2010

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Sep 23, 2010

#3

• Sep 23, 2010

• #3

no it is not a progressive. I have seen 275 tire cars leave with more gas, but those are totally diffrent animals. Is forking over for the progressive worth it, or do i have other underlying probblems.

window is from 3000k-6400k
also car is a manual with a stage 3 spec.

 

trinity_gt

10 Year Member

Jan 31, 2003

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Canada

Sep 23, 2010

#4

• Sep 23, 2010

• #4

Couple of thoughts:

1) ET Street radials (actually, any DOT tire) may not be working as well as you think after a burnout.

2) 4.10s may be a bit short. Maybe you want to think about 3.90 or 3.73s. What are you trapping at (MPH) and at what RPM now?

 

Tim2002GT

Founding Member

Apr 10, 2002

635

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29

Tulsa, Oklahoma

Sep 23, 2010

#5

• Sep 23, 2010

• #5

What rpm are you launching at? Are you just dropping the clutch or slipping it out a bit?

You might try putting in some smaller jets and get the car to work with a little less power and then work your way back up.

 

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mudrun1

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Sep 23, 2010

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Sep 23, 2010

#6

• Sep 23, 2010

• #6

I have tried easing it out and it works until I get to the gas, it just rips the tires off. I have eased it out to 1.87 but then I blew them off and killed the run before the 330. I just heat the ets until they squeel, no mega burn outs. Things is though this set up should be good for just droping the clutch N/A 300hp, but it isn't. I have to walk out N/A also. N/A is easier to control becuase there is no sudden hit, but i should be able to dump it. Or am I completely off the mark?? I would like a little less gear, but it a good gear n/a. I trap between 117 and 119 depending on the temps. I forget the rpm but it is about 6k or so I am good to 7k. If I switch to a bias ply will that let me rip out of the hole? If I raise the window to 4 or 5k on the nitrous I am loosing its biggest benift. As someone stated earlier would a progressive cure this? Also tim, how are you launching and how much are you spraying? I saw your suspension setup somewhere on here and it looked pretty simple, obviously it works though.

 

bhuff30

Founding Member

Dec 11, 2001

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129

Olathe KS

Sep 23, 2010

#7

• Sep 23, 2010

• #7

A few things stick out to me. First, is the Eibach pro kit. I honestly believe lowering springs are the fastest and easiest way to hurt weight transfer and kill 60' times. The fronts are too stiff and don't allow for much rise to occur and I bet the rear are bottoming out because of the limited travel. If you want to keep the lowered stance, then strongly consider going to a coil over front suspension with a long and soft 150lb front spring. That will help you get the nose out of the weeds and plant the power at the back. The rest of your combination should be effective.

Second is the 200 shot in combination with 4.10 gears. That must be a stupid amount of torque going to the rear tires. While it would be fun if you could hook it, a taller gear set may help.

 

Tim2002GT

Founding Member

Apr 10, 2002

635

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Tulsa, Oklahoma

Sep 23, 2010

#8

• Sep 23, 2010

• #8

I agree with the springs, but there are plenty of cars with more power and gear than his and they hook fine. For the rpm band his motor is built for, dropping down a gear would hurt more than help.

For a budget coil spring, you could get a set of 4 cylinder foxbody springs. They work quite well for the dragstrip on the sn95 cars.

 

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ItsStock02

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Aug 18, 2008

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Westland, MI

Sep 23, 2010

#9

• Sep 23, 2010

• #9

Get a pair of slicks and try a 28" tire.

 

Dark04GT

10 Year Member

Apr 27, 2008

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NC

Sep 23, 2010

#10

• Sep 23, 2010

• #10

I'll add to the vote that the 4.10's are too much gear for a 200 shot. I'd go with 3.73's, maybe even 3.55's max with you putting out as much as you are on the ET streets. Time and time again I see a considerable number (not all) of FI guys say 4.10's is too much gear.

If your nitrous window reflects your shift point (~6400 per your previous post) than you should have no problems with staying in the power band, and really... too little power is not the problem here.

Also something that nobody has brought up yet but what does the weight balance look like in your car? Stangs are already front heavy but is your car full street trim or does it have the classic back seat delete / no spare tire etc. Even though adding weight is never a favorite. Having weight over the rear axle can go a long way.

Best of luck, keep practicing, I like the lower nitrous jet idea too.

 

Tim2002GT

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Apr 10, 2002

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Tulsa, Oklahoma

Sep 23, 2010

#11

• Sep 23, 2010

• #11

ItsStock02 said:

Get a pair of slicks and try a 28" tire.

Click to expand...

best idea yet....and keep the 4.10 gears.

 

trinity_gt

10 Year Member

Jan 31, 2003

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Sep 23, 2010

#12

• Sep 23, 2010

• #12

Tim2002GT said:

best idea yet....and keep the 4.10 gears.

Click to expand...

4.10s on a 28" tire is roughly the same as ~3.80:1 on a 26" street tire (so choose between 3.73 and 3.90...)

The 28" tire is likely to be a proper drag tire with a sticker compound and will actually like the heat of a burnout. If this is an option for the OP I'd do that too: 28" slicks and a 4.10 gear.

 

Tim2002GT

Founding Member

Apr 10, 2002

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Tulsa, Oklahoma

Sep 23, 2010

#13

• Sep 23, 2010

• #13

JayC is making about the same power as the OP and he runs 28" slicks with 4.10's. It is working great for him. He recently ran an 11.33 @ 123 mph!

 

M

mudrun1

New Member

Sep 23, 2010

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Sep 24, 2010

#14

• Sep 24, 2010

• #14

I will have to pony up for some et drags. I thank you guys for your time and I will post back in a month or so when the wife lets me buy a pair of bias plys. I will consider the front springs but as the car sits its already a touch squirly in the corners with the 90/10s if I go adjustable shocks I will get some fox coils. Its not a corner carver but I also like it to out handle my f250.

 

Tim2002GT

Founding Member

Apr 10, 2002

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Tulsa, Oklahoma

Sep 24, 2010

#15

• Sep 24, 2010

• #15

The track you race at may not be prepping the surface very well either. When you walk on the surface, it should be trying to pull your shoes off if they are doing their job.

 

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mudrun1

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Sep 23, 2010

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Sep 24, 2010

#16

• Sep 24, 2010

• #16

the track I am at is known for having bad prep. It does not feel sticky to walk on, not at all. But there are cars alot faster than mine that hook ok. So iam going to try the bias plys and see how it goes. I looked and I can not fit 28s the way it sits. I may have to find a way to raise the rear, or roll the fenders to fit them.