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Need A Little (a Lot) Of Help...

  • Thread starter Thread starter Amore427
  • Start date Start date Jul 2, 2014
A

Amore427

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Jul 2, 2014
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Jul 2, 2014
#1
  • Jul 2, 2014
  • #1
I just purchased a 1966 coupe, 6cyl with a rebuilt engine and transmission. I had an inspection (two actually) and they yielded great results.
Got the car, drove fine. Hubby got in the car to drive home...car sputters and dies. Changed battery, solenoid new, engine won't crank. I'm told it's locked up and needs to be taken out and apart - something jammed. Solenoid clicks, fan won't move at all I haven't even driven the car and I'm already looking at big bills. Thoughts? Thanks in advance...new to all this, so be gentle
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Wile Coyote's stunt double
Jul 2, 2014
#2
  • Jul 2, 2014
  • #2
It is possible it may have dropped a valve .I would check and see if it has oil first . Take a cable off the battery and have some one put a socket on the crank bolt and try to turn it .It should turn fairly easy if it is not frozen.
In fact i would pull the spark plugs out so it will turn easier .Hopefully it is a bad Starter or something easy to fix. And Welcome to Stangnet
 

dennis112

15 Year Member
May 15, 2005
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79
Amish Wonderland of Central PA.
Jul 2, 2014
#3
  • Jul 2, 2014
  • #3
Amore427 said:
I just purchased a 1966 coupe, 6cyl with a rebuilt engine and transmission. I had an inspection (two actually) and they yielded great results.
Got the car, drove fine. Hubby got in the car to drive home...car sputters and dies. Changed battery, solenoid new, engine won't crank. I'm told it's locked up and needs to be taken out and apart - something jammed. Solenoid clicks, fan won't move at all I haven't even driven the car and I'm already looking at big bills. Thoughts? Thanks in advance...new to all this, so be gentle
Click to expand...

That is a sad story, but it may not be as bad as it sounds so lets find out . . . .

I suggest removing all the spark plugs (make sure to remember which plug wire goes where), putting the transmission in park (or neutral) with the wheels blocked, and then using a ratchet plus the appropriate sized socket to turn the bolt that is in the center of the balancer pulley clock-wise. If the motor turns easily with the wrench, then the motor is not locked up. Post up what you find and we can further diagnose what to do.

Good Luck!
 
A

Amore427

New Member
Jul 2, 2014
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Jul 2, 2014
#4
  • Jul 2, 2014
  • #4
Thanks! Yeah, I'm guessing I'm going to learn all about this car pretty quickly...and hopefully without hurting anything!
I'll work on this and see what happens...might take me a bit...
 

Hack

15 Year Member
Mar 23, 2004
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Minneapolis
Jul 2, 2014
#5
  • Jul 2, 2014
  • #5
One thing to consider if it's a manual and it's in gear the engine won't turn with the rear wheels on the ground. Same thing with an automatic in park. You want neutral or to get the rear wheels in the air to allow the engine to turn over.

Hopefully it's something minor. Good luck and welcome!
 

RacerJames

Active Member
Mar 21, 2014
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Kingman AZ
Jul 3, 2014
#6
  • Jul 3, 2014
  • #6
Hack said:
One thing to consider if it's a manual and it's in gear the engine won't turn with the rear wheels on the ground. Same thing with an automatic in park. You want neutral or to get the rear wheels in the air to allow the engine to turn over.
Click to expand...

I want to be as polite in this correction as possible, so please take it that way.
In a '65 or '66 mustang with an automatic trans, the engine will rotate with it in park. You start the car in park don't you?
If it's a standard, it must be in neutral, or the clutch must be disengaged, in order to rotate the engine without rotating the whole drivetrain.
 

Hack

15 Year Member
Mar 23, 2004
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Minneapolis
Jul 3, 2014
#7
  • Jul 3, 2014
  • #7
RacerJames said:
I want to be as polite in this correction as possible, so please take it that way.
In a '65 or '66 mustang with an automatic trans, the engine will rotate with it in park. You start the car in park don't you?
If it's a standard, it must be in neutral, or the clutch must be disengaged, in order to rotate the engine without rotating the whole drivetrain.
Click to expand...
Heh! Duh, yes of course you are right thanks tho for being excessively polite.
 
Reactions: RacerJames

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
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tucson,az
Jul 6, 2014
#8
  • Jul 6, 2014
  • #8
Amore427 said:
I just purchased a 1966 coupe, 6cyl with a rebuilt engine and transmission. I had an inspection (two actually) and they yielded great results.
Got the car, drove fine. Hubby got in the car to drive home...car sputters and dies. Changed battery, solenoid new, engine won't crank. I'm told it's locked up and needs to be taken out and apart - something jammed. Solenoid clicks, fan won't move at all I haven't even driven the car and I'm already looking at big bills. Thoughts? Thanks in advance...new to all this, so be gentle
Click to expand...

it sounds to me like hydrostatic lock. that means there is enough water in one or more cylinders that is preventing the engine from turning over at all. start by pulling the plugs, and turn the engine over. if it turns over you will likely see water pouring out of a couple of cylinders. that means a bad head gasket, easy enough to replace on a six cylinder engine.
 

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Wile Coyote's stunt double
Jul 6, 2014
#9
  • Jul 6, 2014
  • #9
That is a very good thought ,check the radiator and see if it is low .
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
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Jul 8, 2014
#10
  • Jul 8, 2014
  • #10
Is the OP SURE the motor is frozen? Just because the solenoid clicks does not mean the starter is ok. Check the cheap and simple things first. I would use the breaker bar before worrying about a valve.
 
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