Great site and glad to be a new member. I have a maroon 98GT 150k miles which I have owned since mile 1. Here is what my problem and what I have done. Got in car yesterday and soon as I turned the AC on I noticed the compressor would cut on and off about every 10 seconds. Then after about 2 minutes or so it cut off and would not kick back on. I took it back home immediatly and started to look for a problem. all fuses are good. I ran a wire from battery to compressor and kicked it on maunally and it started cooling so I let it run for about 5 minutes with no problem and it cooled down the car inside just fine, so I am pretty sure compressor is ok. Also had the freon checked and it is correct. The AC shop wanted to charge me to do any further work, should I let them do it? Any ideas what has happened or where to start or what to look at? Thanks for any help and if I did not post this in the right spot I apoligize
Need AC help in Louisiana
- Thread starter 98gt150k
- Start date
Sounds like a problem with the high-side pressure sensor (don't know the actual Ford terminology)
Unplug it, jump it and if the compressor kicks on i'd suspect that
Unplug it, jump it and if the compressor kicks on i'd suspect that
there are three problematic areas there.
1. Low pressure cycling switch, located by the drier on the passenger-side firewall. Unplug the connector and use a wire to jumper the two wires. If the compressor runs, replace the cycling switch. If that doesn't help,...
2. high-pressure switch, which is up near the radiator on the passenger side, just look for the high-pressure (bare metal) freon line. There are four pins, so you need a haynes or chilton book to tell you which two are the high-pressure cutout switch and which two are the A/C control to the radiator cooling fan. Jumper the cutout and if things work well, you are done. If that doesn't help...
3. The CCRM in the passenger wheel well (front) has the A/C relay in it (it has to be replaced as a complete assembly). If the contacts burn it can make intermittent or no contact and the compressor won't run. Most likely cause is #1 above. Second is #2.
All of this assumes that the freon charge is actually correct and the pressure is not too low due to a low charge level, and not too high due to an overcharge condition. Either will make the thing shut off...
1. Low pressure cycling switch, located by the drier on the passenger-side firewall. Unplug the connector and use a wire to jumper the two wires. If the compressor runs, replace the cycling switch. If that doesn't help,...
2. high-pressure switch, which is up near the radiator on the passenger side, just look for the high-pressure (bare metal) freon line. There are four pins, so you need a haynes or chilton book to tell you which two are the high-pressure cutout switch and which two are the A/C control to the radiator cooling fan. Jumper the cutout and if things work well, you are done. If that doesn't help...
3. The CCRM in the passenger wheel well (front) has the A/C relay in it (it has to be replaced as a complete assembly). If the contacts burn it can make intermittent or no contact and the compressor won't run. Most likely cause is #1 above. Second is #2.
All of this assumes that the freon charge is actually correct and the pressure is not too low due to a low charge level, and not too high due to an overcharge condition. Either will make the thing shut off...
