Need advice: New carrier and axles?

For occasional 1/4 mile and mainly DD I would just go with a Ford 31 spline Trak-Loc out of an Explorer and moser 31 spline axles. Also while installing those I would have the axle tubes welded and the torque boxed welded also.

If you wanted to go with a non ford carrier you could look into detroit tru-track, or auburn, it really depends on how much hp you plan on running down the road and also if price is an option. There are carriers out there that are limited slip and with a switch can be fully locked, those would be best for a weekend warrior type car, but your also going to pay a premium for it.

IMO call www.reiderracing.com They're Ford guys and give good advice,I've used a lot of their products, and would recomend them.

Hold up on the "c" clip eliminators. If you're on the street and drive the car routinely, eliminators is not the way to go. The reason is the bearing size , most if not all eliminators use a smaller bearing that will fit in the axle end (sort of) these eliminators are great for the drags, and are safer as well, but they will not hold up under street use. some of these eliminators use a bearing that is sealed, which makes the problem worse, these wear out about 5 times the rate of the stock bearings. One of the mags, (5.0 or musatngs & fords) had a real good article on this.
BTW, Moser is a good choice as well
Most Detroit locker stuff snaps, pops and raises cane on the street, the clutch type posi si a much better choice. If your car is a GT, it should already have a posi, somewhere around here is a great tech article on adding an additional disc. Everybody that has done that has been real happy with it, plus it's a lot cheaper than buying a whole new unit.
I found this: under "search" but I could not find the tech article on adding another disc to your 8.8

Positraction and TracLoc(k) are simply the brand names that companies - GM and Ford respectively - have chosen to describe their limited slip differentials. There are lots of different types of limited slip differentials. However, both positraction and tracloc limited slips operate in the same manner. Contrasted with a simple open differential which sends power only to one tire and allows the other to freewheel (when turning), limited slip differentials send power to BOTH rear tires. However, there are spring loaded clutches in the differential which, when they sense a speed differential between the two rear tires (as when turning), allow some 'limited slip' in the clutches. This allows the outside tire to turn faster than the inside tire eliminating any scrub or 'chirping'. There are other ways to achieve this limited slip effect besides with clutch packs. Torsen-type LSD's and the TrueTrac brand use a series of worm gears and sliders to achieve a similar effect - but in the case of the Torsen - more power is sent to the tire with the MOST traction. Whether clutch-type or gear-type -- LSD's generally work completely unobtrusively. You don't know they're there -- you just know the car corners quietly, but when you get on it - you have traction to both tires. However, the TrueTrac and Torsen units have nothing to wear out; unlike clutch-type LSD's which have to have springs/plates replaced when they wear out. I run a TrueTrac unit in the Dana rear end in my Volvo.

There are also automatic and manual locking differentials, and spools. A spool basically LOCKS the two axles together -- THERE IS NO DIFFERENTIAL. The term differential exists because that unit allows a SPEED differential between inner and outer tires when turning -- a spool doesn't allow this. A spool-piece usually slides into the female ends of the axle splines in the gutted differential between the axle ends. The cheapest and least elegant version of a 'spool' is simply welding the spyder gears together -- done by MANY racers.

Lockers -- automatic and manually locked rear ends -- have a series of dog clutches that are either locked or they're not. The automatic units lock both axles together UNLESS they sense a speed differential between inner and outer tires -- when they sense that they unlock. They are typically quite noisy as they 'ratchet' in and out of locked position, although newer models have gotten better. Manual locking units work the same way (dog clutches) however - you choose whether and when they are locked. This can be done a number of ways - usually you'll see them electronically or pneumaticallly operated.

For street cars limited slip diffs seem to offer the best compromise, although some like lockers and are willing to live with the noise compromise. For drag racers and some oval track cars a spool is all that's needed. For road racers and autocrossers, a good LSD is usually preferred since they have to negotiate turns. However, you'll see some spools there as well. In my road race car, we simply welded the spyder gears together to 'lock' the rear end up - worked just like a spool. Made for interesting noises and tire scuffing in the pits -- but on the track, the radius of the turns was so big you didn't notice it.

differential
first choice EATON

second choice Ford Racing

axles
first choice
Moser or strange both are pretty equal in quality

second choice
Ford racing

I'd go with Eaton, because in theunlikely event that you break your posi, it can be rebuilt unlike the Auburn. I also went with Moser axles.

So, why wouldn't you just rebuild the stock posi for about $70?
http://www.justdifferentials.com/store/product.php?productid=1494&cat=493&page=1

You do not need any of this crap. Just have your f'n trac lock rebuilt... Damn...

You will know when you need 31 spline. How? Because you will have destroyed your 28 spline stockers

Do not be distracted by bright and shiny objects, just fix your car already.

I went with a Ford 31 spline diff and Moser axles. This is a pretty strong and economic combo.

Kilgore Trout said:

You do not need any of this crap. Just have your f'n trac lock rebuilt... Damn...

You will know when you need 31 spline. How? Because you will have destroyed your 26 spline stockers

Do not be distracted by bright and shiny objects, just fix your car already.

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Stock is 28 spline, and it should have been done at the same time as gears. Why pay for labor twice?

And people have been known to snap the axles with nothing more than sticky tires.

Think of this as preventive maintenance .

Tripoli said:

One of these days you're going to have something useful to say, Kilgore. Thus far, just about every post of yours I've ever seen has been completely worthless.

Some of us prefer to drive away from the track every time, you know. I'm pretty sure that with my stock rear end and 28 spline stock axles, I wouldn't be doing that with the slicks I'm planning on getting soon.

I feel sorry for your Cobra.

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I tried to make myself care about your vaginal discomfort about my comments being worthwhile or not. Unfortunately I was unable to do so... Sorry

Thanks for your concern about my Cobra. BTW it is much faster and better looking than your car ever, EVER will be

I was just trying to provide a counter point to the typical "whoopee lets make the rear strong enough to handle double the power and be totally unstreetable with some annoying f'n locker"

Its your car,do what you f'n have to do.