Need advice on purchase: 66 Mustang

[Boki]

Hey guys, let me start out by saying that i'm looking for a 65-68 'stang that I could use as a daily driver. It doesn't have to be 10 out of 10. I'm looking for something like a 5-7 out of 10.

Here are the details of the 66 that I found:

The good:

rebuilt 302 with 10K miles
C4 auto (only work owner knows of is rebuilt torque conv.)
Power steering
manual drum brakes (recent brake job)
air conditioning
New fuel tank

The bad:

Interior will need to be replaced. Front seats are torn and mounts are broken. New headliner. Windows don't always roll up all the way...I am
guessing new regulators here? The paint is chipping in many places. There is a small rust spot on both doors, as well as rust along the drip rail.

I drove the car and it starts fine and drives well. I would eventually would like to do a power brake conversion.

I can get the car for $5k. Is this a deal you guys would jump on? How much do you think the interior is going to run me? Anything else I should be looking for?

Thanks in advance!

 

[rbohm]

an interior is going to run you at least $1000 depending on what all you need. as for the rust, check it carefully and see how bad it is. if it is surface rust you are ok, if it goes kind of deep though, you are looking at some bucks to repair it. the window regulators are usually not the problem, there are little plastic rollers that are likely missing. most mustang parts suppliers have them for little money.

as for the price, $5000 is a bit steep imo. i would offer something more like $3000, and walk away if the price wont come down to $3500.

 

[hurt]

Agreed, unless you know what you're doing with bodywork it's always better to buy a car with a good body. Swapping engines, transmissions, etc is a breeze compared to rust repair. And be carefull with rust you can't see, there are stories of bondo'd quarters and everything else, once you start sanding who knows what you'll run into.

What's the first 5 digits of the VIN?

 

[Boki]

Thanks for the info guys. I went a head and passed on the car because of the body work. I found a 67 that I'm going to try to go look at that has a good body, but it's been sitting for a year.

Thanks again for the info, I appreciate it.

 

[kirbyalaska]

Good call on passing that one up. You should be able to find a good number of mustangs to check out in your area. Just don't be in a hurry.

 

[Pony66]

Keep in mind that there are a LOT of 302 engines. Some good and some better. That price was not a good deal but not a scam either.
When buying an old Mustang, look at the floor pans and the cowl area for rust. There will be some. Make sure the frame rails do not have rust holes.
Brakes are easy and cheap to fix. Drum brakes will stop just fine. Dont tailgate.
Interior is cheap. Not near $1000. Be careful to check out the drivers seat frame. They are often broken.
Windows are very easy to repair or replace. Usually the little plastic roller is out of the track and the track needs some grease.
Two months ago I got a 6 banger 66 that needs some body and interior. I paid $1300. It has very solid floors and hardly any rust.
All this is just my opinion with a couple facts here and there.

 

[Boki]

Thanks again for the info, guys. I really appreciate it.

I still haven't got a chance to check out the '67 I found. I've been swamped with school/work, but will try to make it out on Sunday. Here is what the owner has told me about it:

• Body has no dents
• fresh paint 3 years ago, has some minor chips
• floor pans were replaced by the previous owner, but this current owner says that they weren't installed "well". Whatever that means.
• Interior is a good shape, needs new headliner but owner has new headliner in box ready for install.
• Dash was painted by previous owner. Current owner says it looks bad.
• replaced starter, solenoid, electronic ignition, but needs several hoses replaced and has no heating system in place.
• No a/c
• Car has power steering, and manual disc brakes.
• original 289 and C4 trans

Asking price is $6k, but seller is willing to consider all offers. What kind of offer would you guys throw out there? Do they sell power brake kits for cars that already have manual disc brakes?

Thanks again in advance for any input.

 

[Wicked65]

I bought my 65 Coupe with 289, top loader, decent paint, couple small rust bubbles, and boyd wheels for 7200. All it needed was a radiator. Its kinda what i base real world value on.

 

[Pony66]

Body has no dents Yeah but how much bondo?
fresh paint 3 years ago, has some minor chips same as above
floor pans were replaced by the previous owner, but this current owner says that they weren't installed "well". Whatever that means. They are probably warped, not straight and welds need to be ground
Interior is a good shape, needs new headliner but owner has new headliner in box ready for install. No problem
Dash was painted by previous owner. Current owner says it looks bad. No problem, easy cheap fix
replaced starter, solenoid, electronic ignition, but needs several hoses replaced and has no heating system in place. probably blew the heater core. Cheap and not to bad to fix. Check the water outlet elbow, it should have a flow restriction. Dont rev engine until therm. opens
No a/c
Car has power steering, and manual disc brakes. Niceoriginal 289 and C4 trans


Asking price is $6k, but seller is willing to consider all offers. What kind of offer would you guys throw out there? Id offer $4000 depending on status of engine, those floorboards and cowl condition. There were 3 289s offered. I already know its not a Hipo, so if it came as 2V or 4V will effect the price. I always want a deal so my offer would be lowish.
Do they sell power brake kits for cars that already have manual disc brakes?
Oh yeah. Plenty of kits or do it yourself