Need advice with which route to go, combo question.

[Fett]

The specifics:

88 Coupe, WC T5. Stock 5.0 block, stock heads that have been gasket matched and the runners cleaned up (removed thermactor "humps"). E cam, 1.7 rockers, Edelbrock Performer intake, 24lb injectors/MAFS. Ford racing headers, UPR x-pipe, Flowmasters. Taurus e-fan, MSD 6AL, timing set 15*. Steeda full length sub-frame connectors, tubular lower control arms, boxed uppers, urethane bushings.

At the track I pulled consistant 13.2 @ 102 on 26" slicks. In 99* heat, first time at the track.

My immediate goal is to hit 12.99 on the current setup. I am hoping that with a proper tune and colder track temps, I might be able to do that. As it sits now, I just have the fuel pressure set at 40, and the timing set 15* advance. It smells rich, and I was hearing detonation around 5300 rpms at the track. I am hoping that a good tune would fix that, plus a few more runs to get my shift points and launch a tad better....would hopefully get me that extra 3 tenths.

However, I would like to see slightly lower 12s with no power adder...which leads me to heads. I figure everything else is pretty set at this point, there is no need modifying anything else....but the heads are keeping me down.

Which leads me to my question:

Which would I be better off doing? GT40P heads, or spending the money on some alum heads? I have a few sets of GT40 heads I could use, but I am hearing that the GT40Ps flow better and have higher compression...which would be perfect for someone who wants to stay N/A.

So, would GT40Ps get me what I want? Would just GT40s accomplish it? Or should I save my money and get some aftermarket heads?

 

[R2D2]

aluminum heads of your choice, canfields, TFS, AFR etc.. and dump that cam asap. Have fun

 

[Fett]

Dump the cam, why? What's wrong with the cam?

 

[gcwh02]

+1 on aluminum heads. You dont have to dump the cam unless you are trying to squeeze every HP out of your combo, right now you have other things to blow money on.

 

[Fett]

I'm still lost on why the cam is so bad. Is it a matter of "there are better cams out there"? I only went with the e-cam because I have stock springs, ect...I wanted a cam that would help..but I didn't want to go too extreme. Plus it was free.

 

[R2D2]

ecam is far from being extreme, your puttin a better head on the motor, cams can leave as much as 40+hp on the table. Its up to you quite frankly, but the cam is no different than the heart in your chest. Carry on.

 

[gcwh02]

I'm still lost on why the cam is so bad. Is it a matter of "there are better cams out there"? I only went with the e-cam because I have stock springs, ect...I wanted a cam that would help..but I didn't want to go too extreme. Plus it was free.

Thats exactly what it is. Yes there are better cams out there obviously, but free is good and it beats your stock cam. Your money would be better to go into some aluminum heads, strange 10-ways/ or whatever your preference is, battery in rear, i didnt see throttle body and 70mm is fine for your combo, little weight reduction if you want and your at your mid 12. Then if you want a better cam, do it.

 

[Fett]

Which cam would be better for N/A?

So judging from the posts, GT40 or GT40P heads would not be worth it at all? I figured that they had much better flow. Plus being able to do GT40s for $150 in total, or GT40Ps for $200 in total wouldn't be bad. But I suppose aftermarket alum heads would be the better choice.

 

[gcwh02]

Which cam would be better for N/A?

So judging from the posts, GT40 or GT40P heads would not be worth it at all? I figured that they had much better flow. Plus being able to do GT40s for $150 in total, or GT40Ps for $200 in total wouldn't be bad. But I suppose aftermarket alum heads would be the better choice.

Some AFR 165's would be perfect, with the spring upgrade. Then if you want a new cam, might as well get a $250-300 custom one.