Need everyone's help fast!!!

[n0v8or]

If you have a head gasket leak between a cylinder and the water jacket, hot combustion gases will superheat the water on the power stroke. The faster you go, the more often the transfers of hot gas will happen. A compression test may detect a head gasket problem, but could be masked by worn rings or valves. Another tell-tale sign is air bubbles in the coolant when the engine is idling.

An partially obstructed radiator is another likely cause.
Idle the engine with the radiator cap off (wear safety glasses), and see if you can detect an obvious increase in flow when the thermostat opens (check for air bubbles at the same time). I agree with those who suggested a radiator flush. I've used household Drain-o and lukewarm water, and it works fine. When flushing out the Drain-o mix, if you see lots of brown liquid, chances are the capacity of the radiator was diminished.

 

[edothekid]

If you have a head gasket leak between a cylinder and the water jacket, hot combustion gases will superheat the water on the power stroke. The faster you go, the more often the transfers of hot gas will happen. A compression test may detect a head gasket problem, but could be masked by worn rings or valves. Another tell-tale sign is air bubbles in the coolant when the engine is idling.

An partially obstructed radiator is another likely cause.
Idle the engine with the radiator cap off (wear safety glasses), and see if you can detect an obvious increase in flow when the thermostat opens (check for air bubbles at the same time). I agree with those who suggested a radiator flush. I've used household Drain-o and lukewarm water, and it works fine. When flushing out the Drain-o mix, if you see lots of brown liquid, chances are the capacity of the radiator was diminished.

So if I open the radiator cap, it the resevoir cap right?

and check for flow at idle, that means that the water in the resevoir tank should move or empty right?

Cuase I have done this to see if the fluid would drop, but it never does.

The fluid in the resevoir tank just sits there, should it go down when the thermostat opens?

 

[Jinx]

If your resv. tank is stock, it should have markings on it to indicate fluid levels when engine is both hot and cold. I've always noticed this on all my Fords. I also think that the resv. should always have the minimal (cold) amount of fluid in it. Think of it this way....If your resv. is empty and you spring a small hidden leak, how would you know?

If you installed a larger MAF and didn't re-tune your chip you may be running lean which might cause somewhat slightly higher temps. especially if you haven't tuned it after adding all the intake parts.

 

[edothekid]

If your resv. tank is stock, it should have markings on it to indicate fluid levels when engine is both hot and cold. I've always noticed this on all my Fords. I also think that the resv. should always have the minimal (cold) amount of fluid in it. Think of it this way....If your resv. is empty and you spring a small hidden leak, how would you know?

If you installed a larger MAF and didn't re-tune your chip you may be running lean which might cause somewhat slightly higher temps. especially if you haven't tuned it after adding all the intake parts.

That is what i was thinking, I might be running lean, so that could cuase higher temps.

Anyone else?

 

[COramprat]

I think you can rule out a leak or blown gasket since you never lose any fluid. My car tends to run a little hot espcially during the summer. I can't think of anything else at the moment

 

[silverstang1995]

Came on the board to ask the same question...have the same problem. Mine ended up being the heater hose falling onto the header (the bracket that was holding it up lost a screw). I replaced the hose section...filled up the radiator and am having the exact same symptoms. I replaced the radiator cap and thermostat and no change. When I turn my heater on it is cold air most of the time. The fan comes on like normal.

The thing with the temperature is that it goes about 4/5ths of the way up but never further. It is usually fine too, until you stomp it or are on the freeway. Frustrating stuff.

 

[Sam98]

There are basically three things that can cause your car to over heat:

1. Inadequate flow in the cooling system.
2. Insufficient air flow through the radiator.
3. The engine producing too much heat.

You need to elminate all of these possibilities. Flushing the cooling system can help eliminate the first problem. Blow out the radiator and condenser to get rid of dust, hair, bugs, leaves, or other debris to take care of the second. If the engine is producing too much heat your best bet is to replace it unless you can do the work yourself. Hopefully, it is just an obstruction in the cooling system or dirt blocking air flow through the radiator and condenser...

 

[edwardohaskillo]

If you have a head gasket leak between a cylinder and the water jacket, hot combustion gases will superheat the water on the power stroke. The faster you go, the more often the transfers of hot gas will happen. A compression test may detect a head gasket problem, but could be masked by worn rings or valves. Another tell-tale sign is air bubbles in the coolant when the engine is idling.

An partially obstructed radiator is another likely cause.
Idle the engine with the radiator cap off (wear safety glasses), and see if you can detect an obvious increase in flow when the thermostat opens (check for air bubbles at the same time). QUOTE]

I agree. In the old days with larger fluid capacity radiators I would check for bubbles too. This trick is best for old fashioned radiators with tanks on the top and bottom. Side mounted tanks are a little trickier.

Make sure the car is stone-cold. Take off the cap and bring it up to operating temp. Water won't flow until the thermostat opens. Afer it starts to flow check for bubbles. BE CAREFUL.

If the gasket (or cracked head) is bad enough, you will find coolant in the motor oil. Check the dipstick for mocha-colored froth.