Need FMU ?

Just finished the install of an S-Trim. Car fired right up and I let it idle for a few minutes as directed. Turned it off as I had to get ready to set the timing back to stock. Car will now just turn over and not fire. Checked for spark - OK, so I'm now wondering if the car flooded. I am running an it tank 190 pump as well as the T-Rex that came with the kit. I upgraded to 42# injectors and the FP is set at 34 with vacuum line on. I was told that I don't require the FMU that I hooked up, due to the size of my injectors, and the FMU is only needed if I'm running stock injectors. Anybody know about this...........help !

Rick

Got the car started.......had to step on the accellerator pedal while it was cranking over before it would fire. Idle was way too low so we turned it up some to allow it to keep idling. Timing was put back to 10 degrees. I was running a C&L 73mm MAF meter and have upgraded it to an 80mm C&L with a 42lb tube to match my new injectors. Yes, everyone says get a Pro-M however I went with the C&L. My old one served me well ! So you say to keep the FMU hooked up until I get it on a dyno. I guess this is to ensure the A/F ratio (FMU says it's 12:1) stays "safe" until the tuning is done ? Another thing, does the boost guage only register when the car is driven ? We haven't road tested the car yet and the guage doesn't move even when the car is revved. Is that normal or do we have the guage hooked up wrong. One last thing......there is a small oil leak from the brass fittings where the oil sending unit is located. How tight should these brass fittings be. I know we can tighten them more however I don't want to overtighten them as their brass. Let me know, thanks.

Rick