need help asap

[rockyracoon]

im finishing up my PI motor swap,and as I was filling up the system with coolant when I put in approx 2 gallons I looked underneath ,and I saw a small puddle underneath on the drivers side towards the firewall.
I can see a small stream coming from under the lower intake. I removed the alternator and it is dry as far back as I can see,so I cinched up the lower intake bolts on that side,but im not sure if I should try to start the motor at this point.
the coolant system probably needs about 4 quarts more,but I guess the motor needs to be started to allow me to top it off.I would sure hate to remove the lower intake at this point.

BTW I did not use any RTV on the water jackets ,should I have ? if so where should it have gone ?
how many places ?'

 

[wmburns]

This is a PI motor with a PI intake correct? Were new gaskets used? What is the condition of the gaskets?

Did you use a torque wrench and torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lb)? The intake will leak if over torqued or torqued in the wrong sequence.

Normally when mating the intake with the heads, No RTV is needed assuming good gaskets and the sealing surfaces are clean and smooth. Note that the sealing surfaces must be clean and SMOOTH.

What did you do about the broken heater supply nipple near cylinder #4?

What did you do about the heater return through the engine valley? New O-rings?

If it is leaking without any pressure, it will leak when started. What's the point of starting it? Besides, it is taking a chance on hydro-locking a cylinder since you do not know the scope of the leak.

Check the heater supply/return lines for leaks. The area is tight near the firewall. A bright light and mechanic's mirror may help. Also, check the freeze plugs on the block for leaks.

I can not recall any intake manifold water jacket sealing surfaces around the #8 cylinder. Suggest a through review where the leak is coming from.

 

[rockyracoon]

yes Pi motor and intake.,new gaskets, used a nipple from advanced,as previously described threaded the intake to accept a nipple,no leaks there,torqued to 15 -17 inch lbs, did not repace o rings,however it is dry as a bone up front.

anyway after cinching lower manni on that side it stopped leaking.I have even driven it around the block and so far so good. but I did have a huge mess. When I was dismantling stuff before the swap I damaged the pwr steering line at the pump(the line that goes to the hydro boost unit) so I had to replace it when the engine was out. anyway it was virtually spraying out at the hydro booster when I started the engine for the first time,huge mess,so I ended up tightening the union up and it eventually stopped,its funny cause I really went easy on that when I installed it as not to squish the little white gasket,so now the leak has stopped,but in tightening it up I can see a part of that little white seal squishing out on the back side,can I get that seal anywhere ?

BTW im wondering if my fan not coming on has something to do with adding the second coolant sensor,could I possibly have mixed them up.The gauge is working fine and,im not getting any code for the ECT sensor.
The only other issues are the fact that the cooling fan is not coming on,and I can see a little icon lit up on my instrument panel,I made sure not to let overheat.I probed the plug at the fan ,and I have no voltage,im thinking the relay went bad,guess ill check that next.
the other issue is I can hear /see the number one spark plug boot arching right below where it enters the head,guess the boot is ripped.

other than that it seems to run pretty smoothe,no stalling out or anything,but the car did seem a little sluggish off the line,seems like it could use more timing,guess a tuner is in order.

 

[wmburns]

The cluster symbol is for low coolant level in the de-gas bottle (overflow).

Almost sure there will be air trapped in the 1st intake crossover. It will self purge after a couple of full heat/cool cycles (assuming the system is tight). Avoid getting on it too much until then. It is also likely that as long as air is in the first crossover, the sensor will not get a true temperature reading. This may account for the low coolant temperature reading (and no fan).

The telflon washer should push out slightly when tightened.

The non-PI tune is not going to have enough timing for a true PI motor. The load tables are also going to be off.

Sounds like congraulations are in order!

 

[rockyracoon]

Oh thanks so much.