Need Help....Car Very Rich

[bit]

So I have been working on a 89 5.0 that belongs to a friend and I am getting no where. I am so frustrated I stopped working on the car for a month, but now I have started looking at it again.
A little background:
Two years ago the car had 110K miles and I pulled the engine out and tore it down it the short block. I added a new oil pump, new timing gears/chain, new cam, heads, intake, TB, Mass Air, injectors, S-Trim, e-fan, and A FMS aluminum radiator. The car made 478RWHP and ran great.
Fast forward to last summer.
The right head gasket blew. I did not have time to mess with it so he took it to someone else to change the head gaskets. Once he got the car back it was detonating very bad. I went to look at the car and the T-rex pump was not working. The owner knows nothing about working on cars and just was not listening for it. He had a Walbro HP pump in it to replace the T-rex. After this pump was installed the car has not run right.
What the car is doing:
It gets 80 miles to a tank of gas.
The car will not rev above 3000RPM when floored.
The car has started leaking oil. i.e. To much Crank Case Pressure
The car over heats

Things I have checked.
- Checked MAF wiring and Changed Sensors
- New Plugs
- Changed by-pass valve
- Checked/replaced PCV system
- Check fuel pressure
- Changed Coil
- Changed Computer
- I have hooked my SnEEC-IV up and looked at all the sensors
-----TPS looks good
-----Timing looks good
-----Injector Duty Cycle looks good
-----Injector Pulse Width looks good
-----ACT and ECT sensors look good
-----MAF looks good at idle
-----O2's look good

When I floor the car and it bogs the MAF only goes to 2.5 - 3 volts. This is the only bit of useable info I got from the snEEC.

DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS?

Thanks
Brent

 

[jrichker]

Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing, OR one or more injectors stuck
open

Do a cylinder balance test: Warm the car's engine up to normal operating
temperature. With the Engine Off, Key OFF, use a jumper wire or paper clip to
put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the
normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The
engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine will shut
off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all
8 injectors, it will flash 99 or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for
cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause
the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the
same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like
it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure

The red wire on each injector is powered up whenever the ignition switch is
in the Run position. The computer provides a ground to complete the circuit
and fire the injector. The injector must have a ground to squirt fuel on
command. A short to ground in the injector return wiring can cause one or
more injectors to be continually open or triggered

A.) A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test
the injector wiring. If the light stays on constantly, either the wiring has a
short to ground or the computer has failed

B.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the
injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing
up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy
water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector
fires, it makes bubbles An injector stuck open will release a continual stream
of bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.
The same trick works great to find leaking injectors too.​

The wiring for the injectors may have some bare spots in it causing the
injector to computer control wire to ground out. This would cause the
injector to remain on anytime the key was in the Run position. Remove the
injector wiring connectors from the injector. Note that each injector has one
red wire for power and a non red wire (wire some color other than red) for
computer controlled ground. With the key off, disconnect the computer
connector from the computer. Use an Ohmmeter between the non red wire
and ground. You should see more than 100000 (100K) ohms resistance.


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) &
Stang&2Birds (website host) for help wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Using the above diagram, check the resistance between the injector and the
computer. Clean and check the 10 pin connectors since they are a potential
trouble source. Any resistance greater than 1 ohm between the injector to
computer wire and the matching pin on the computer connector is a problem.

See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=6 for more help

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper
clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. You’ll need it to do
the cylinder balance test

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/