Engine Need help! hot start problem 88 lx

Mine was a 88 so i had to buy a used a9l computer. It had a different one originally. Is there a way to test all the pins on the computer if i unplug it from the harness? Like test just the computer itself

Was it originally a 5-spd? If so, should be fine if original 5-spd with no wiring changes.


Remove the ECU and test pin 46 to ground. WHile cranking, you shouldn't have voltage on pin 46 at all. If you do, then you probably have an ECU issue (and need to figure out why you have voltage on that pin
 
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Was it originally a 5-spd? If so, should be fine if original 5-spd with no wiring changes.


Remove the ECU and test pin 46 to ground. WHile cranking, you shouldn't have voltage on pin 46 at all. If you do, then you probably have an ECU issue (and need to figure out why you have voltage on that pin
When I remove the ecu and check the pin, would I check volts or resistance on it? And I could test it to any ground not on the computer right? I don’t really know much about electrical, still learning the multimeter
 
Volts.

But again, if your car was originally a 5-spd, and you are using an A9L, this isn't something you should need to worry about.

If you are concerned about the O2 sensor jumper wire, take a photo of it. I just did this on my '88 not too long ago when I converted from AOD to 5-spd

AOD jumper location on 1988
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5-spd jumper location on 1988
img_2489-jpg.jpg
 
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...Hmm. I never noticed any anti-siphon action with my Kirban. My check valve in my original pump failed many years ago (15 maybe?) and the pressure would drop to 0 immediately. Car started and drove perfectly fine and held 39psi. Had I not had a fuel pressure guage I would have never known the check valve failed...
I have pics of the anti-siphon on the Kirban diaphragm.
IMG_1122.JPG
 
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Without the anti-siphon, hot starts with 0 psi on the rail were nearly impossible. Pedal to he floor would start it with large amounts of black smoke which took forever to flush out. Waiting 30 minutes after hot shutdown would start much easier.

I would refer to it as similar to a vapor lock or it could actually have been a vapor lock.
 
Mine was a 88 so i had to buy a used a9l computer. It had a different one originally. Is there a way to test all the pins on the computer if i unplug it from the harness? Like test just the computer itself
Not with equipment that you have. If the computer will dump the codes with a paper clip, it is probably OK.
If it won't dump the codes, you have other problems.

Computer will not go into diagnostic mode on 86-90 models 5.0 Mustangs .

Revised Dec 23 2107
1.) To clarify signal ground connections on the engine mounted fuel injector wiring harness and add diagram for the engine mounted fuel injector wiring harness
2.) To add warning about using an automatic transmission O2 sensor wiring harness with a A9L manual shift transmission computer.


]b]Disconnect the battery positive terminal before making any resistance checks.
The voltage drop in the ground cable will cause incorrect resistance readings.[/b]

How it is supposed to work:
The black/white wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the computer into self test mode. If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will have hard starting, low power and drivability problems. Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer on its way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground. It should read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from any signal ground on the engine mounted fuel injector harness with the battery pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe.

Engine mounted fuel injector wiring harness sensors for a 5.0 mustang
63347.gif


What sometimes happens is that the test connector black/white wire gets jumpered to power which either burns up the wiring or burns the trace off the pc board inside the computer. That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 & 60.

OR

If an O2 sensor harness from an automatic transmission Mustang is used with an A9L manual shift transmission computer. The 12 volts from the automatic transmission starter circuit will damage the A9L computer.

The STI (Self Test Input) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. Jumpering it to power can produce unknown results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test simply verifies that there are no breaks in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.

How to test the wiring:
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground (black/white wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than 1.5 ohms.

attachments\58312


If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between the black/white wire and pin 46 on the computer wiring connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More than 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the computer is suspect. On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins 40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More than that and the computer’s internal ground has failed, and the computer needs to be repaired or replaced.

While you have the computer connector disconnected from the computer, turn the ignition switch to the Start position and look for 12 volts on pin 46 of the computer wiring harness. If you see 12 volts then you have an automatic transmission O2 sensor harness. That will damage the A9L manual shift transmission computer.

See https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/computer-issue.749974/#post-7490537 for Joel5.0’s fix for the computer internal signal ground.

If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More than 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer wiring connector: it is for an A9L, A9P computer.
eec-iv-computer-connector-for-5-0-mustang-gif.gif


a9x-series-computer-connector-wire-side-view-gif.gif


Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Check out the diagram and notice all the places the black/white wire goes. Almost every sensor on the engine except the MAF is connected to it.

88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine

See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.
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