Engine Need help identifying the mods done in my engine bay please (throttle body?)

Hi, I’d started listing off some MFG’s that looked familiar, had to interrupt & lost my text. Apologies!
Your 4.6l (PI) SOHC’s Cool Air Intake, 70-75mmThrottle body & Plenum look like SR Performance parts, with an added larger 80-90mm BLACK Mass Air unit up front (possibly off the Ford Lightning or an 03’-04’ Supercharged Cobra).
SR products are sold near exclusively by American Muscle, as Combo’s, with the CAI, TB, Plenum (86’-95’s w/5.0 H.O. motors get a Spacer for the EGR Vs the 96’-up 4.6L’s getting the Plenum) take a peek on their site- compare pic’s to AM’s. LMR also has a similar setup, under a different MFG. With Intakes in view, compare any subtle differences with your CAI. Your Coils are ACCEL’s, visible labels on each COP. AND Accel’s been using Canary yellow since the 60’s on Ignition parts, lol!
The 3 notches atop the TB is the 1st clue. Absent GIANT brand name is the 2nd. Your large MAF is one used typically for a Forced Induction Motor, or motors that pull a lot of air due to high flowing Heads, aftermarket Intake manifold, with Higher-lift, decreased Intake/Exhaust lobe C/L, radical Cams, L.T. Headers, Bigger Injectors, Fuel System & a stout Reciprocating Assembly, I.E. Steel Crank, Stronger Forged I Beam or H Beam Rods, Forged Pistons & ARP Stud’s, fasteners (or equivalent) to hold it together. They CAN, however- be TUNED to run with ANY build, Won’t run right without one. Car May even have a DYNO Tune...Does it run Ok, just seeking some more Ponies for your new Pony?
A Datalog would reveal a LOT about the build to a local Tuner, or by an SCT Tuner to BAMA. Their “Tunes for life” includes Datalogging, and Tuners have the ability to Tune AND Datalog. I’d contact AM, or better yet- SCT -BAMA directly to find what Tuner type BEST suits your desires..
The 96’-01’ Cobra’s, 03’-04’ Mach1’s were built with the Better Block, Internal’s, &, Stronger yet, the 03’-04’ Cobra’s. You’re reliably limited to around a 425-450 HP build with the OE Motor you have,- providing it’s not an ultra high Mileage, beaten to death Motor, Do Compression testing, pull off a Valve Cover & see how it all looks.and BTW- 425HP -that ain’t BAD!! Motor appears like it was taken care of. Check the other stuff.
I’m just giving you facts, not ranking on your Ride. Looks like a good find!
There ARE ways you can find the Owner, previous to the Dealer who seems to have limited info., but ALSO keep in mind it may have been RePosessed, & sold off at Auction...
As the Pic’s show, it’s running the Stock PI Intake Manifold, it’s quite restrictive- but I’d had a NON PI 96’4.6L once, with the stronger T-45 (5) Speed. 96-98’s (NON-Pi) VERY RESTRICTIVE Intake & Heads & I’d repeatedly sprayed with 150HP wet NOS shots, it had bolt ons- & Cams, 130K & still Ran GREAT!
The 4.6’L 2 Valve motor’s ARE resilient, like anything else, as long as you don’t go overboard!
Your RED Injectors MAY be Bosch III EV-1’s (30lb’s). You need to spin one & look for Part#’s, or depressurize & pull the Rail & remove one to be positive., ALL 86’ & up Stock Ford Mustang GT’s Injectors were Yellow EV-1 (19Lb) units, until 05’s 3 Valve SOHC 4.6L GT’s came, then to (24Lb’s). Cobra’s & other certain models excluded...
OE Ford Injectors are Color Coded, and in (3) general injector designs, (EV-1’s are wider in design, others types are Narrow, different connector types) i’m listing the 5.0/4.6L GT’s- Ford ALSO used them in many other Vehicles, 19-80Lbs/Hr. Conversion kits allow usage of each type in any EFI application. Many aftermarket Injectors are available:^^ EV-1’s (Jetronix, Minimeter*) 87’-04’ OE: 5.0’s in GT/LX, Bullitt) EV-6’s, (USCAR) 05’-10 GT’s, & EV-14’s (USCAR) 11’-up GT’s.
* Bosch/Amp Connector types.
^^ Referenced from A.M.
Hope this information at least points you in the right direction! Any questions & people are certain to pipe in. Good luck with your new Ride!

Hi, Sorry you’re having issues. What Code(s) precisely, is the CPU throwing? Before jumping to conclusions, a little info will make it easier to help you. How long ago did you buy the Car, did this Garage that sold you this guarantee you it would get a passing Sticker? (an OBD-2 Car without Cat’s is usually an instant DMV Sticker Emissions fail.).
Is the shop you bought it from a Car Dealer, repair shop, both?
Did you get a passing sticker after Registering it?
How long after you bought it did it throw a Code?
Did it run like this from the Onset, the Idling issues, other Idle characteristic’s, popping, Fuel smell, or occur more recently?
I’ll pop in tomorrow to look for response(s).
Cheers!

Hi
Long one, lots to cover! As for my last post’s queries, you’ll find people quite often get over their head in a build, frustrated- they sell.. Dealer buys cheap- pulls strings, gets it a Sticker, sells- another inherits the issue(s), OR they know what it needs, repair it- adds another to the collection!
Moves & Countermoves..
(2) VERY frequent scenarios. Was just looking out, as Laws are in place prohibiting this activity. Timing- CRUCIAL. As you’d just bought the Car (Ford OBD-2 EEC’s initiated in 96’+) many States very aggressive about OBD2 emissions tampering, your 03’ w/o Cat’s, W/CEL’s, no History..just raised an eyebrow..
States vary on this, CA.MOST intense, but it’s illegal to drive an OBD-2 vehicle with any Emissions system tampering, instant ISI fail w/o Cat’s. Exemptions, and Exempt performance parts (50 State legal) are $$, but come with an exemption Sticker (w/ ID# they enter during Inspection). Btw, “pass” I’d meant AKA: a passing State Emission/Safety Inspection Sticker.
Codes you’re throwing are related to O2's slow to respond because of the long tubes, and no Cat’s, as you know. Upon startup, with the long tubes, the o2 sensors are furthur away in location than with the stock Manifolds. Because of this they take longer to heat up, longer timeline to register changes the computer needs to make to A/f ratio alterations based on several Sensory inputs. These time parameters can be modified/extended in a Tune, this, and other Tools available will also be able to clear up your Idle searching..
Regarding your A/C assisting your idle up to par, when A/C is initiated, the CPU automatically raises engine RPM to offset the Mechanical A/C load created, and indirectly helps stabilize your Idle.
Codes are also for both front oxygen sensors deciphering a lean condition. This may be due to the LT Headers, as stated, other Tune inadequacies, but don’t forget, - may be a more simple answer such as lazy sensors, Exhaust or Vacuum leak, etc..
You realistically have (2) Choices, at this point, don’t be intimidated in the least by it, you’re easily capable of this, it’s not Rocket Science- but this is where the learning curve really starts..
1). You NEED to familiarize yourself with what the Build-is, exactly, or remote BAMA Tuning is out, if they don’t know what their aiming to Tune, it’s a shot in the dark, not worth the Money. You need to be sure the info you give, is exact- down to the part numbers. It will run right with that effort, maybe with some data logging, too- also included free with Tunes for life, go for the best SCT Tuner, & you will need a decent set of Tools, not overboard, just Sockets, extensions, Spark Plug Socket, few wobble extensions, 1/4 & 3/8” drive-Screwdrivers, Feeler gauges, Allen wrenches nothing special. SCT Tuners w/BAMA Tuning is good, respond quick, has Dyno’ed near every combo.Will work with you every step.
2) OR- You bring it in to a reputable Speedshop for a DYNO Tune, they will ID things, May make suggestions regarding different parts, may sell you a Tuner, and it should run like a Clock when it’s done. You’ll pay for it, won’t be as comfy doing further Mod’s, but- the most typical 2nd option.
If I was in your position, i’d choose #1, hands down. Then you can acquire your SCT Tuner, get Tunes for life- any mods you make, BAMA creates a new Tune & sends it VIA WiFI, right to your Tuner. Data log mode will give BAMA the info needed to get everything working exactly as it should.
Just FYI: If the Car was DYNO Tuned, it’ll likely have a bung with a Plug threaded in on a Header, where they monitored the Mixture while Tuning, you can install a Wideband 02 Sensor for a Air/Fuel ratio gauge, an A-Pillar Pod mount is BOTH an inexpensive way & convenient spot to mount it, watch it. AM sells both.
With option 1, I would scan the engine compartment slowly, checking for any compromised vacuum lines, melted, burnt, or bad connections, exhaust leak before the sensors. Look at the PCV tube to see if it's leaking. Also what you can spray some carb cleaner around the intake and vacuum lines listening in on a change in engine rpm. If you note a change then you found a leak. Also if the scan tool used to read the codes can read pids or live data, see if you can monitor the oxygen sensors and long/short term fuel trims as this will show us how the engine is running and what the EEC is seeing/commanding. Easy to learn the basics, brands have Tutorials online.
That “Fuel smell” is normal if a Tune’s off a bit, or swinging rich to lean, purposely rich, etc.-Cat’s burn the unburnt fuel remaining after combustion, without them, that fuel doesn't get burn’t off, hence; the odor. I’ve known some, heard of other’s who went Catless & reverted back to Cat’s, they got sick of the odor. Doesn’t bother me, lol.
It’s also possible the popping you hear in your exhaust is either a small leak at any connection in your exhaust system, cool 02 pulled in by the vacuum of traveling exhaust, colliding with the hot gases creating thermal shock “pops”, or heat may be igniting the Vapors within the Pipe(s). Look for any soot around the connections, if you have the wide clamps, look for any that may not be torqued to spec’s.
I’d also ensure the MAF & other CAI Clamps are tight, i’d do a basic Tune-up. A baseline. As the Plugs are recessed in the Heads, when you remove the COP’s, shine a light down, moisture causes issues, but any debris you’ll need to blast out with compressed air, Vacuum with a Tube taped on, i’d actually know one who fired up his leaf blower to get the job done, odd- but resourceful...
Reading your Plugs will tell you if the motors running overly rich or lean by color- Tan- perfect, Black-Rich, White-lean. Look for any evidence of high temp. damage. Plug reading pic’s online via a Google search, back of a Haynes Book, etc.
If you feel uncertain regarding the below, YouTube’s got some very good step by step Vid’s (Use familiar performance parts titled reference materials). ABC Estinguisher, I’ve fortunately never needed to use, but around Cars, better safe than sorry..
You can pull your fuel rails if they get in the way, pulling plugs- not mandatory, but easier & will allow you to ID one of your injectors. Be sure it’s very clean, disconnect your Battery & hit the brake pedal a few times to bleed off any residual charge, rag over the rails Schrader valve, push the center pin to relieve pressure, be ready with rags, Fuel will still drip out when the rail comes up.
Clean your Plugs, if they are in need, or not FORD based, or NGK’s, changing them may help your Cause, gap at 0.050-0.052, use NeverSeize on the Threads & reinstall.
As you eventually get part #’s, off everything, keep jotting each down. I’d pull a Valve Cover to verify whether the Cams are Stock, or aftermarket. Ensure your Coolants topped off, that can cause issues, too.
Having Good oil pressure, engine runs cool, plugs color is OK, it comes around when warm, those are good indicators, I’d keep the Octane level at 91-93 rather than 87, cheap insurance if theTune’s ignition curve is aggressive, until you’re sure, to avoid detonation if you have the urge to jump on it . Removing the front 02’s & cleaning them may also help a tad. Do you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator & a small fuel pressure gauge? Didn’t see one, wasn’t sure.
Hope this clears up a few things for you, I’d glanced at DYNO shop locale’s in PA, just in case, they’re listed below. Not sure how close you are, but it’s the spots I’d found.
Good luck!


Lansdale, Montgomeryville, Huntington Valley, Stillwater, Portersville, Collingdale, Export, Dillsburg, Newville, Trafford, Shrewsbury, Carlisle, Mt. Bethel,

Hi, Re: Inspection laws in PA., was curious, researched it a bit..PA guidelines are extremely unusual, indeed, no sober individuals could come up with such erratic content, they have to be on sub-Clinical dosage regimens of psychedelic’s, lol!! Did locate some current, semi- linear guidelines.
Inspection Stickers become void when ownership is transferred, like everywhere else. You have (10) days post Registration to acquire a new Sticker, after that, Cops can cite/fine you for an expired Sticker. It’s an instant OBD-2 fail at Inspection for a CEL, or a visual showing no Catalytic converters. They can also hook you up to their Scanner. Don’t think they do a CPU Software re-flash check.
As for the </= 5,000 Mi/Yr.
exemption, you have to prove it FIRST, so you need to drive that Mustang for 1 yr., proving it’s only used for </= 5,000 Miles to get the Emissions exemption. Hope the garage you bought it from honors the “assured me they would get me a Sticker if needed” statement they fed you.
Think you can trust these guys, and/or get that in writing?. Strange they neglected commenting on you needing a new sticker
Immediately. You should maybe contact them to ensure they follow through with their assurance, you’re Registration is expired,
You can get a waiver if repairs exceed 450$, register as an Antique, Collector Car, Street Rod..
Let me know, what your take on this is, when you text again..
Cheers! John
Link to resource:https://www.dmv.pa.gov/Pages/FAQ Pages/Safety-Inspection-Program-Consumers.aspx