Need Help Installing new Intake

I would look for any vacuum leaks. That could keep the rpm's up because of extra air entering the engine. The computer is trying to supply enough fuel to keep it running. Check all the vacuum lines and fittings to make sure they're secure and check any of those little hard plastic lines, those things can break and cause a leak (those leaks are pretty hard to find). To check around the spacer between the upper and lower you could use starting fluid to spray around that area and listen for the engine rpm to increase, then you have found it. Just be careful with that stuff, we don't want any fires under hood before you even get to road test the beast!!

Had the same problem after a TFS package on my buddys 94. Try adjusting your idle like this: It works !!!!!!!!!

Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough air bleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.

The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using a 0.010" feeler gauge, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of loc-tite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.

Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow vehicle to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.

Obviously, this rpm range is by what the car and driver wants...IE, no set idle speed, whatever works for YOU.

Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, and then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone RTV on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

the timing is probably off from removing the distributor, it might even be off a tooth on the dizzy gear.

Mine did the same thing. You might have a vacuum leak at the lower intake/head or block seal.

20new5.0 said:

thanks guys, I got the idle thing down, it was actually a combination of timing and having no breather hose coming from the new valve cover breather to the air filter tube

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do you have a breather cap or are you saying you just left the hose disconnected? from what i have read on here the breather is a nono, it lets in unmettered air which would cause problems