need help removing intake

68GEETEE

5 Year Member

Nov 21, 2003

481

5

38

Texas, USA

Jan 8, 2004

#1

• Jan 8, 2004

• #1

I plan to remove the intake manifold and replace the leaking gasket on my '68 302 this coming weekend. I need to know what to do first, do I drain the coolant? I have never done this before but letting someone work on it besides me is not an option. ANy help, instructions, tips, do's, dont's would be appreciated.

 

HistoricMustang

Active Member

Apr 11, 2003

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Confederate States of America

Jan 8, 2004

#2

• Jan 8, 2004

• #2

You can do it.

Yes, drain the coolant. Do not force anything and take your time the "first" time. Use silicone to seal front and rear instead of the goofy gaskets they give you in the kit. Clean everything up and when you go to re-assemble use quality intake gaskets like Fel-Pro and put a small amount of sealant (very small) around the intake ports and make yourself a set of studs to guide the intake into place (I cut the heads off of some fasteners). Otherwise the gaskets will move.

Use a torque wrench and gradually move up to the specified torque. I believe it is 23 pounds. Start at 10, then go to 18 and then to 23 using the sequence specified (start in the middle and work out). If you just torque to 23 you might think it is right but it will be wrong.

You can do all of this without removing the distributor.

Good Luck,

HistoricMustang
www.hsitoricmustang.com

 

68GEETEE

5 Year Member

Nov 21, 2003

481

5

38

Texas, USA

Jan 8, 2004

#3

• Jan 8, 2004

• #3

Forgot to mention I have an aluminum intake. Is the torque specs for the bolts still 23lbs or is it less?

 

D

D.Hearne

New Member

Sep 29, 2000

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south louisiana

Jan 8, 2004

#4

• Jan 8, 2004

• #4

Make sure after you're done to change your oil too, you will undoubtably spill some coolant into the lifter valley when you remove the intake. Once you torque it to 23 ft/lbs go back over the sequence 3-4 times at that spec. Unlike Historic, I always use the "goofy" end seals and only had one or two out of 40-50 leak or squeeze out. And I don't use any sealer around the intake ports any longer, only the coolant passages and the corners where the gaskets meet. A perfect set of guides studs for the intake are the 2 inch long factory carb studs. Use one at each corner intake bolt hole, then remove them when you have the intake in place and 4 other bolts started.

 

DarkBuddha

Founding Member

Dec 11, 2001

2,215

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47

Seattle & Tampa

Jan 8, 2004

#5

• Jan 8, 2004

• #5

If you don't own one already, immediately go out and purchase a Haynes/Chilton manual for your car. These manuals pretty much explain the procedure for doing almost anything to your car.

 

S

SL 1993 R

Founding Member

Jul 18, 2002

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California

Jan 8, 2004

#6

• Jan 8, 2004

• #6

if you use silicone for the front and rear of the intake, make sure you let them dry properly, so they have time to set up...

 

D

D.Hearne

New Member

Sep 29, 2000

11,730

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south louisiana

Jan 8, 2004

#7

• Jan 8, 2004

• #7

DarkBuddha said:

If you don't own one already, immediately go out and purchase a Haynes/Chilton manual for your car. These manuals pretty much explain the procedure for doing almost anything to your car.

Click to expand...

One other "better" manual, in my opinion, is to get a "Motor Repair Manual" these are out of print, but you should be able to find one thru Barnes & Noble's website. I bought one two years ago to replace the first that I had that got misplaced. The one to get is for the years from 1964 to 1970. This book is a goldmine of info, not just on Fords, but all US makes for those years.

 

68GEETEE

5 Year Member

Nov 21, 2003

481

5

38

Texas, USA

Jan 8, 2004

#8

• Jan 8, 2004

• #8

If I am installing new gaskets, what purpose does 'sealer ' serve? Isnt that what the gaskets are supposed to do?

 

6

67GTA-FB429

Member

Dec 15, 2003

777

0

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Tri-Cities, Wa

Jan 8, 2004

#9

• Jan 8, 2004

• #9

The sealant (RTV) helps seal the point where the gaskets meet and leave a little space for leaks. It also ensures a full seal around your water jackets.

Get a Haynes/Chilton manual so that you will know the correct torque sequence, it is very important, especially with aluminum manifolds.

Take your time doing it. If you get confused, just step back and re-read the book. Gaskets are cheap and so is RTV, but engines are expensive.

 

68GEETEE

5 Year Member

Nov 21, 2003

481

5

38

Texas, USA

Jan 8, 2004

#10

• Jan 8, 2004

• #10

thanks for the replies, you guys know your stuff!

 

D

D.Hearne

New Member

Sep 29, 2000

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south louisiana

Jan 8, 2004

#11

• Jan 8, 2004

• #11

You don't HAVE to use the factory torque sequence, all that's neccessary is to start with the middle bolts and work outward in a criss-cross fashion. I quit using the factory sequence long ago and have not had a failure in either head or intake gaskets failing cause the torque sequence wasn't observed.

 

6

67GTA-FB429

Member

Dec 15, 2003

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Tri-Cities, Wa

Jan 8, 2004

#12

• Jan 8, 2004

• #12

You are correct about not using the factory sequence. But for a first time application, it would be better than guessing.

 

6

67GTA-FB429

Member

Dec 15, 2003

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Tri-Cities, Wa

Jan 8, 2004

#13

• Jan 8, 2004

• #13

One other thing; if you use the sealer instead of the gaskets on the front and rear, make sure you put down a thick enough bead otherwise you will leak oil.

 

HistoricMustang

Active Member

Apr 11, 2003

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Jan 9, 2004

#14

• Jan 9, 2004

• #14

Ditto on not using the factory specs. You can always tighten them up a bit more. If you over tighten and compress gasket too much and then have to back off, you may have to start over.

Just do the sequence (starting in the middle) several times using a "small" torque wrench if possible, not the monster wrench you would use to torque down Head Bolts.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com