Need Help ! Trick flow top end kit problems

3/4 turn huh? That may be why. there turned down way to tight. You might bend a valve or pop a keeper. You should always start on the minimal side and work up from there. I was thinking that maybe they were to loose and causing the noise but thats not the case here.

93lxdm78 said:

3/4 of a turn is what trick flow said to do once they are at zero lash they didn't even all feel tight enough

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The instructions i have in front of me say 1/2 to 3/4 turn. 3/4 being the maximum. They didnt feel tight because there was no hydraulic preload on your lifters. Once you start the car and oil gets to them, they pump up with oil. Dont take my posts the wrong way. Just tryin to help you out dude

93lxdm78 said:

no I am not taking it defensive at all just want to get them quiet how do you preload your lifters when the car is off and all taken apart ?

This article I found supports your taughts as well I hope I didn't screw anything up

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=techarticle&id=2

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I doubt anything got screwed up. I dont preload lifters either. Some people do there rockers as discribed in the article. SOme people suggested it to me too. I didnt go with it though because crane didnt manufacture my kit. Thats why i went with tfs instructions. Is the crane cams the instructions u used? This would be interesting to know

????

So what fixed it

Glad I read this thread. I also have just installed the TFS top end kit and have the same bucking, hunting, and stalling at idle speeds issue. I don't have anything to add at this time but if I figure mine out, I'll post it here.

It sounds like to me that it needs to be tuned for the new parts that have been installed. I have installed quite a bit of the same stuff as you guys and had the same problems, I have since installed the tweecer for a custom tune and my car starts like stock now, idles awesome, hot starts fine and actually has tons more power and drivability is awesome.

Hate to say it but that's just my thoughts, the computer can't handle all the new parts with the stock tune and the values are way out there compared to what they should be.

Trick Flow Top End Kit

Don't be in such a rush to change that C&L mass air flow meter. Sounds like your injectors are too big for that application. I have a 91 Stang 5 speed with the Trick Flow Street kit. 24lb injectors and 4:10 gears. Car ran a 13.02 @ 105.80 last week at Island Dragway in New Jersey on a 85 degree day with the 73mm C&L.

I had a Pro-M mass air meter on the car and the car ran slower. That meter made the car run rich. Too FAT!! Early back in March car ran a 12.71 @ 107.94 with the C&L meter. Much better meter for performance if you ask me.

Lower your fuel pressure to around 35psi, below 38psi. vacumn line off and plugged. Don't forget to put it back on after adjustment. If you have MSD ignition, gap your plugs at .045 and set timing at 14 degrees. I had idle issues too with the C&L and blocked off the idle air control valve. It would surge at a idle and when coming to a stop at a traffic light. This seemed to help alot. Also you can turn the C&L so the meter on the top is closer to the fender. This may help also. The C&L's are alittle frustrating, but believe me, when I changed over to the Pro-M the car was 2 tenths slower and I lost almost 3 mph. Street wise I like the Pro-m better, but performance wise, stick with the C&L.

I put the car on the Dyno and my numbers are close to yours. Max power (run1) 285.49 max torque 320.12. (Run 2) max power 294.87 max torque 329.90 just by lowering fuel air ratio to 35 psi and timing at 14 degrees with Pro-M meter 75 mm. I should have Dyno'd the car with the C & L on it first.

Anyway the numbers at the track don't lie. This Trick Flow application runs great. I just ordered the 3/8 heat spacer for it today as the top intake was very hot at the track and probably kept me from getting back into the high 12's. I am very pleased with this set up. Stage 1 cam and 10:1 Probe pistons. Stock crank and rods.

Your air fuel mixture on the bottom of the chart looks like your are way too rich, 24lb injectors are probably what you need. My air fuel was 11.46 before adjustment and 12.80 after, Still out of range but on a Dyno they won't be exact as they would be going down the track.

You will have too either Dyno the car again or take it too the track and see what times you run before and after the changes..:Track:
Good Luck,

Ken BLK3DGT (12.71 107.94) C&L Meter (I Like it!!!!!!)

93lxdm78 said:

Dammmm I got the same pop up on my hood even worse the hood dug a mark into my brand new intake from trick flow. I am using the 1 inch spacer my hood does close.

Thanks arty from trick flow tech support who assured me long as I remove my hood insert it would clear no problem I should of not taken his word on that and checked myself I would just prefer to get a smaller adjustable fpr and not use a spacer at all.

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You don't need to use a spacer with the trick flow intake and a BBK FPR. All you have to do is bend the fuel line very slightly so that it moves the FPR down slightly. Then there is 0 clearance problems anywhere.

93lxdm78 said:

Does anyone know what degree the timing should be set at with 93 octane in the tank with the top end kit from trick flow ?

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Somewhere around 18 degrees base.