Need Help ! Trick flow top end kit problems

3/4 turn huh? That may be why. there turned down way to tight. You might bend a valve or pop a keeper. You should always start on the minimal side and work up from there. I was thinking that maybe they were to loose and causing the noise but thats not the case here.
 
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3/4 of a turn is what trick flow said to do once they are at zero lash they didn't even all feel tight enough

The instructions i have in front of me say 1/2 to 3/4 turn. 3/4 being the maximum. They didnt feel tight because there was no hydraulic preload on your lifters. Once you start the car and oil gets to them, they pump up with oil. Dont take my posts the wrong way. Just tryin to help you out dude
 
no I am not taking it defensive at all just want to get them quiet how do you preload your lifters when the car is off and all taken apart ?

This article I found supports your taughts as well I hope I didn't screw anything up

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=techarticle&id=2

I doubt anything got screwed up. I dont preload lifters either. Some people do there rockers as discribed in the article. SOme people suggested it to me too. I didnt go with it though because crane didnt manufacture my kit. Thats why i went with tfs instructions. Is the crane cams the instructions u used? This would be interesting to know
 
yeah I will get them adjusted if that don't work I may switch them out all together
that noise is just not ok by me.

Installed the pmas mass air from anderson seemed better at first but this morning it wouldn't even idle kepted trying to die out its bucking and overall running rough I give up thousands spent two good known performance shops and no results
 
UPDATE


I figure the ecu was all set with wrong settings after the new pmas so I decided to reset the ecu by unhooking the battery and let it sit for a good hour then I started the car cold and let it idle out till hott and relearn everything and what a big difference started right up tonight cold and ran great even the bucking was almost all gone drove great. No I need to decide to go back to the 4 bank chip or aem or pms to tweek it even more
 
Well Getting rid of the c&l and going to an anderson motorsports 75mm pmas mass with filter


7/2/2007 problem is back surging and stalling I am going to follow the surg check list posted by JRICHKER

I just found it and looks great lots of things to try I will report back when all done going through steps
 
Welcome to the club :lol:

Here is what I did to correct the idle hunting and stalling Credit to JR

Change the Iac motor or at the least clean it out really good with brake clean. I just got a cheapo one at auto zone for 50 bucks and it works great. My car idles at 900 all day. o hunting or stalling.

The bucking. Well I am still working on that one. I did notice timing has alot to do with that. I have my set mine at 16 Deg thats what trick flow says to do I know shortthrow has his at 18 with good results. Just make sure to run 93.

What size injectors are you using and what is your fp set to ?
 
It sounds like to me that it needs to be tuned for the new parts that have been installed. I have installed quite a bit of the same stuff as you guys and had the same problems, I have since installed the tweecer for a custom tune and my car starts like stock now, idles awesome, hot starts fine and actually has tons more power and drivability is awesome.

Hate to say it but that's just my thoughts, the computer can't handle all the new parts with the stock tune and the values are way out there compared to what they should be.
 
Trick Flow Top End Kit

Don't be in such a rush to change that C&L mass air flow meter. Sounds like your injectors are too big for that application. I have a 91 Stang 5 speed with the Trick Flow Street kit. 24lb injectors and 4:10 gears. Car ran a 13.02 @ 105.80 last week at Island Dragway in New Jersey on a 85 degree day with the 73mm C&L.

I had a Pro-M mass air meter on the car and the car ran slower. That meter made the car run rich. Too FAT!! Early back in March car ran a 12.71 @ 107.94 with the C&L meter. Much better meter for performance if you ask me.

Lower your fuel pressure to around 35psi, below 38psi. vacumn line off and plugged. Don't forget to put it back on after adjustment. If you have MSD ignition, gap your plugs at .045 and set timing at 14 degrees. I had idle issues too with the C&L and blocked off the idle air control valve. It would surge at a idle and when coming to a stop at a traffic light. This seemed to help alot. Also you can turn the C&L so the meter on the top is closer to the fender. This may help also. The C&L's are alittle frustrating, but believe me, when I changed over to the Pro-M the car was 2 tenths slower and I lost almost 3 mph. Street wise I like the Pro-m better, but performance wise, stick with the C&L.

I put the car on the Dyno and my numbers are close to yours. Max power (run1) 285.49 max torque 320.12. (Run 2) max power 294.87 max torque 329.90 just by lowering fuel air ratio to 35 psi and timing at 14 degrees with Pro-M meter 75 mm. I should have Dyno'd the car with the C & L on it first.

Anyway the numbers at the track don't lie. This Trick Flow application runs great. I just ordered the 3/8 heat spacer for it today as the top intake was very hot at the track and probably kept me from getting back into the high 12's. I am very pleased with this set up. Stage 1 cam and 10:1 Probe pistons. Stock crank and rods.

Your air fuel mixture on the bottom of the chart looks like your are way too rich, 24lb injectors are probably what you need. My air fuel was 11.46 before adjustment and 12.80 after, Still out of range but on a Dyno they won't be exact as they would be going down the track.

You will have too either Dyno the car again or take it too the track and see what times you run before and after the changes..:Track:
Good Luck,

Ken BLK3DGT (12.71 107.94) C&L Meter (I Like it!!!!!!)
 
Any car can gain form a good dyno tune.

But the truth is you can't tune a car with bad parts may it be a leak or a bad IAC.

Take it me from me I learned that lesson the hard way.

As of now I have no tune and my car is running strong with the stock computer. I know now I can take it back for a tune to tweek it more.

Don't waste your money on a tune if you car has serious idle and driving issues. Wait till you work out the bugs first.

Stock psi is 39 pounds. I would not adjust my fp or anyone elses to 35 thats very low of a psi. A dyno tune is needed to verify that low of a fp (35) is needed. I would rather run to rich than to lean all day. I can afford to change bad plugs not a whole motor.


Blk3d gt -> that bottom line figure that is to rich was before the dyno tune, And the chip with the c&l. The air fuel line above was after the tune. The two are listed there to show the difference of before and after. Since then I changed to a 75mm pmas and had great luck with it, And change the Iac. I had to remove the 4 bank sct chip because it was tuned for my c&l not the pmas.
 
Dammmm I got the same pop up on my hood even worse the hood dug a mark into my brand new intake from trick flow. I am using the 1 inch spacer my hood does close.

Thanks arty from trick flow tech support who assured me long as I remove my hood insert it would clear no problem I should of not taken his word on that and checked myself I would just prefer to get a smaller adjustable fpr and not use a spacer at all.

You don't need to use a spacer with the trick flow intake and a BBK FPR. All you have to do is bend the fuel line very slightly so that it moves the FPR down slightly. Then there is 0 clearance problems anywhere.

Does anyone know what degree the timing should be set at with 93 octane in the tank with the top end kit from trick flow ?

Somewhere around 18 degrees base.