Need help troubleshooting a possible EEC startup problem

General,

Yep. I mentioned the forum softrware didn't like my file as web media. It's a simple MOV file. Click on the link to just listen.

"A question about the timing pointer, is it on the passenger side of the balancer?"

Yep. As I recall it is, Not the basic little wedge like my 65 Mustang. I'll be at the shop tomorrow, but I think it's like this:
Timing pointer

I already checked the timing much earlier in the thread. Here were the numbers. "it's about 32 degrees BTDC. With the plug removed, it's 12 degrees BTDC"

5L5,

"Can you confirm the harness?" It's a harness from " the donor " car. I wasn't involved in that step. How would I tell the difference. On that note, Dad has a new harness from Ford Racing that he intended to install, someday. I'm not sure, but I think the box mentions 1989. I'll know for sure tomorrow. Keep in mind this car ran well for years before Dad decided he was tired of the " Start, die, restart then runs fine " ritual. I don't think it did that to begin. So he spent money on a tank with a built in fuel pump and sender. No idea what pump is in it. To answer Tool's question. It does seem to have enough PSI when I tested it. 35-40psi. At least you guys gave me the OK when I posted those figures.

The salt and pepper shakers are white on white and black on black I don't know that you can swap them. I would like to see the connections cleaner inside. I didn't have any contact cleaner to do it. The sample spark plug I pulled out was sooty. It brushed right off. The timing indicator is the one I posted a picture of. I haven't checked for TDC, yet. Since it has run well in the past and we haven't moved the distributor at all, I don't suspect to find it off. I'll double check it.

General,

I get it. Wouldn't it have run like heck all the time if the injectors were miss wired?

From 5L5...
"For a Mustang, the injector harness from 86-93 is the same."

Knowing my Dad the harness would have likely come from Mustang Village , our used to be local Mustang new parts and salvage yard. If so, I'm guessing it right.

I'm going to see about cleaning those connectors just because I like to see nice shiny metal on important stuff.

Sorry for the long delays between posts. I put a new battery in the ODB1 tester and put new spark plugs in the car. It sort of changed the symptoms. Some better and some worse. I'll start with the codes.

KOEO:
56, 81,82,84,85, then 10 and 11

KOER:
12, 33, 44, 94

Starting the car was a little different. Ist try, started and died right away. Second try was the same but it tried to run just for a moment. The third try it ran but the idle was so slow it almost died before I could give it a bit of throttle to bump it up. It was not idling smoothly. I quickly through a timing light on it and the idle was in the 550-620rpm range. The timing was moving around from the low 20s to low 30s btc. I couldn't tell for sure since it was not very stable. Last week, at this point, I pulled the SPOUT plug and it ran better without it. I left in in this time. I let it run until it looked to stop getting warmer which was about 160 on the gauge, but a laser temp gun said the thermostat housing was no more than 130. It still would drop the rpm enough that I would give it a goose, which it did fine, to keep the car from trying to die. Once it was warm I ran the KOEO scan. When I tried to restart it, for the next scan, it would start and instantly die about 3 or four times and then ran with a very low throttle until I could give the car a rev. Each time it died, I made sure the fuel pump primed each time and stopped before I tried to start it.

The 56 code is new. MAF sensor too high. I don't believe he has any trans oil sensor to give the alternate code.