You could do either of what Hissin said -- however you could also backprobe the connectors/harness until you find the issue and actually fix it. Although it is quite a pain in the arse.
If you have the spare time and like troubleshooting, try it, if not -- go around it as Hissin directed. Find another source of energy, etc.
stolentcm
if you want to just run new power, run a fused wire to the ignition column wiring. fuse it as close to the power source as possible. i do this for a living and unless you want to take apart a lot of stuff trying to find a bad/burnt wire just run a new lead. if you hook up to the wrong side of the wire the hatch will pop and you know its the wrong wire. accesory lead at the column should be gray with a yellow stripe...if you want to hook it up to constant power so you dont need to turn the key on; it should be either red with a blue stripe or white with a pink stripe. any questions fee free to pm me. oh and the wire you would want to hook up to should be the opposite of purple/yellow.
The guys have you covered. If sourcing new power, I'd either: Use the fuel door button if you have one (because it will be a 2" long jumper wire, figuratively speaking). Or just run a new wire from the back of the fusebox (dead side of fuse 6 or whatever it was) to the switch. This way the wiring is all OEMish in terms of sourcing, etc. You will have [in essense] paralleled the OEM pathway.
I kinda have the feeling the issue is your switch anyhow. They have been known to get balky (sometimes working if you really stab the thing, till it totally craps itself).
Good luck.
Thanks guys.
If it was the switch, wouldn't I have power to one side of the connection? Just for testing purposes, could I unplug the fuel door switch and jump a wire from the hot side of it to the opposite side of the hatch switch to see if it pops the hatch?
You backprobe your switch's electrical connector to see if there's power going in one side but not leaving (while the switch is closed).
Personally, I dont see why you cannot use the fuel door button's power source as a donor means for the hatch. I keep little jumper harnesses around the shop - a wire with aligator clips on each end and a fuse in the middle. I'd just use this to make the jump.
Well, I used my multimeter on ohm mode to test the switch. When I depress the switch, it will zero out.
I also jumped from the hot side of the fuel door plug, to the hot side of the hatch plug.........nothing. Actually I touch both sides and one of them made my dash lights come on....
Your switch sounds to be bad. A reading of zero ohms with the button depressed should indicate infinite resistance - the switch isnt connecting the two terminals together.
It's much easier to simply backprobe the switch. Ensure there is a 12 volt feed into one terminal, and if so, depress the button and see if 12 volts egresses the other terminal. A test light works well for this test.
If the switch is out of the car, you can use a fused jumper wire or even a 9 volt battery (I dont like doing the latter but it works) if it makes testing easier (I recall needing little kid hands to do much with the switch).
Good luck.
If you definitely have power into the switch, and you created power leaving the switch, as you suggested this leaves the wiring to the solenoid or the solenoid itself as the issue.
I'd probably check the solenoid itself if you havent. Look for a bad connection and put your test light back there to see if you're receiving 12 volts (suggesting a bad solenoid).
If it's all copacetic, you can trace or chase the wire from the switch to the trunk but many times it's easier to run a new wire.
Random thoughts.
Good luck.
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