NEED HELP-W/Mark VIII fan electrical connector!!!!!!

monte87

Founding Member

Feb 26, 2001

876

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new york

Jul 18, 2005

#1

• Jul 18, 2005

• #1

Hey guys-

Guys-I need HELP, i am in the midst of installing a MARKVIII elctric fan and dumping the Black magic fan..... I bought the fan, but as usual something is always an obstacle!!! It doesnt come with an ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR.....
How did some of you guys who did the install get around the electrical connector if one was not available????
i really dont feel like hitting junk yards and all, most yards places wont sell the connector without you buying there fan. So i was wondering

Many Thanks-Anthony

P.S. Electrical connector to fan, clip connector that gets plugged into the fan unit itself.

 

tmoss

Gettin Wired

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Jun 28, 2001

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Saint Louis, MO

Jul 18, 2005

#2

• Jul 18, 2005

• #2

Do it right and go the JY and get the connector. I bought a used one that came with the connector. Front end wrecks ruin the radiator and then they'll sell the connector - or give it to you if you buy something else too.

 

monte87

Founding Member

Feb 26, 2001

876

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new york

Jul 18, 2005

#3

• Jul 18, 2005

• #3

Hey T-Moss

Thanks for the response, But i called quite a few JY'
s in NY and the all come up with nothing... its amazing, or there just to dayum lasy to check and look for yoU!'

Can you keep an ear out if ya hear of one...

Mnay Thanks-=Anthony

 

B

bcd

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Jun 23, 2005

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arab al

Jul 18, 2005

#4

• Jul 18, 2005

• #4

on my 95 fan there is three male connections we tested them straight off a battery and the middle is low one end is high and the other end is ground. I just crimped female conectors on two wires and wired it to be high all the time.

 

monte87

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Feb 26, 2001

876

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new york

Jul 18, 2005

#5

• Jul 18, 2005

• #5

Hi BCD

Thanks for the input too!


Why couldnt you crimp all three???

Thanks_Ant

 

sgarlic

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Apr 21, 2001

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Jul 18, 2005

#6

• Jul 18, 2005

• #6

My taurus fan came with the connectors as well, but I did the same thing as above, just figured out which wires it was. I had both sides of the connector with mine, so I just used the wires coming off the other side of the connector (the one not connected to the fan.)

I wouldn't bother with trying to find the connector man, it might just end up being a PITA to find and wire in anyway. You only need the high speed wire, not the low speed, unless you're wiring in some crazy controller or a manual switch or something. You'd probably fry something if you wired them both up, but don't quote me on that.

If you really need to know the wiring, you can e-mail Mr. Baskin at Delta Current Control for answers on what wire does what.

 

tmoss

Gettin Wired

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Jun 28, 2001

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Jul 18, 2005

#7

• Jul 18, 2005

• #7

There are no "wires" to crimp to if it's like mine - there is a female connector mounted right to the electric motor, so you can't crimp anything. And if you mean female spade connectors - better watch them real close as this high current connection will tend to overheat them with time - they get looser with heat/cycles.

Yep, thje JY won't do much for you as far as getting one from the yard - you have to go there. When I call, they won't even tell me if they have some of a particualr make/model I'm looking for - they tell you to come and look.

 

monte87

Founding Member

Feb 26, 2001

876

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new york

Jul 18, 2005

#8

• Jul 18, 2005

• #8

Hey guys,

Thanks for the hlpe, I HATE JY's and them dudes.... Over the phone there real pricks, but if your there and in person, they start calling you SIR! Why can people be nice....

Thanks-Anthony

 

I

Insane3D

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Jul 21, 2004

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Jul 18, 2005

#9

• Jul 18, 2005

• #9

I hope you have upgraded your charging system considerably if you are going to use that without something like the DCC. IIRC, that fan pulls a startup spike of near 70A...

 

monte87

Founding Member

Feb 26, 2001

876

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49

new york

Jul 18, 2005

#10

• Jul 18, 2005

• #10

I have the 130amp PA perfromance alternator upgrade and wiring, Optima red......
Im not going the DCC control route, Gonna use a 100 amp circuit breaker and 75 amp bosch relay with a switch inside the car for emergency us. it will all be controlled by a 190 turn on sensor 180 off in the therm. housing...

anthony

 

I

Insane3D

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Jul 21, 2004

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Jul 18, 2005

#11

• Jul 18, 2005

• #11

Ahh...good to know. It looks like you have it covered. I would be careful as I've heard that even the 130A 3G's sometimes have trouble with that fan without the DCC unit, but that PA is a great unit, and you might be fine.

Regardless, it sounds like you've thought this through, just wanted to save you some headaches. You should be good to go.

 

monte87

Founding Member

Feb 26, 2001

876

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new york

Jul 18, 2005

#12

• Jul 18, 2005

• #12

Thanks

i figure,

If the 130 amp is not upto the task, Its only an excuse to raise the bar 200amp, polished unit! hahahahahahah i rather stick to the old fashioned route than fancy and have problems like ive read so many on here with that dcc.

Ant

 

Black Sun 5.0

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Mar 23, 2002

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Jul 18, 2005

#13

• Jul 18, 2005

• #13

Yikes! I'd go with a DCC over anything else. No hassle when setup right.

 

monte87

Founding Member

Feb 26, 2001

876

18

49

new york

Jul 18, 2005

#14

• Jul 18, 2005

• #14

I guess,
But if im going with a 100 amp auto-reset power circuit breaker and a 75 amp bosch relay and a 200 on/185 off temp sensor installed in the therm housing-
Why would i need a DCC controller? When it all does about the same thing, i will not have to worry about the breaker, it will automatically reset itself-if and whenevere it triggers in an Off psoition.
Anthony

P.S. im just curious, can someone please elaborate for me.

 

sgarlic

Founding Member

Apr 21, 2001

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Jul 18, 2005

#15

• Jul 18, 2005

• #15

The DCC unit gradually applies power to the fan.. that's the difference. If you look on their site, www.dccontrol.com, they have a great animation of why their unit is far superior to others.

Common electric fan setups wait til the thermal sensor reaches a certain temperature, then apply full power to the electric fan, draining the charging system for a split second, then bogging down the system while applying a steady full current supply.

The DCC unit gradually applies power to the fan as it hits the temperature of the thermal probe (which is adjustable.) You have no current spikes, no bogging down of the charging system, etc. With the DCC unit, it is so efficient that you will likely never hear the fan run at full speed, and you will also likely never see your charging needle move when the fan engages (even with headlights on.) It also includes amazing technical support, a respectable warranty, all wiring/jumpers, clear instructions, etc.

I paid $109, and it was 100% worth it. I would venture to say that my enthusiasm about the greatness of this product is shared among all owners of it.

 

M

mustang-a-holic

New Member

Jul 8, 2005

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Jul 18, 2005

#16

• Jul 18, 2005

• #16

tmoss said:

There are no "wires" to crimp to if it's like mine - there is a female connector mounted right to the electric motor, so you can't crimp anything. And if you mean female spade connectors - better watch them real close as this high current connection will tend to overheat them with time - they get looser with heat/cycles.

Yep, thje JY won't do much for you as far as getting one from the yard - you have to go there. When I call, they won't even tell me if they have some of a particualr make/model I'm looking for - they tell you to come and look.

Click to expand...

Amen about the spade connectors....I had some melt down and burned up the wire insultion....scared me to death! I was lucky it didn't short out.