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Need Help with Brakes

  • Thread starter Thread starter boulderado
  • Start date Start date Dec 23, 2005

boulderado

New Member
Mar 1, 2004
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San Diego, CA
Dec 23, 2005
#1
  • Dec 23, 2005
  • #1
I went to change my rear brake pads this morning and ran into some trouble. I piston won't recess back into the caliper. I used a c-clamp and it wouldnt move a bit. So I opened the valve to release the pressure and the pistion still wouldnt move. So now the car is sitting on a jack and there's no way to put the caliper back on, not even with the old pads....I would really appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
 

1LowGT

New Member
Sep 4, 2005
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st louis mo.
Dec 23, 2005
#2
  • Dec 23, 2005
  • #2
your calipers spin in clockways,i have a mac tools caliper set that spins and pushes at the same time
 

boulderado

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Mar 1, 2004
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San Diego, CA
Dec 23, 2005
#3
  • Dec 23, 2005
  • #3
hazze4ya said:
your calipers spin in clockways
Click to expand...

So its not a matter of squeezing them with a c-clamp but screwing them in clockways?
 

1LowGT

New Member
Sep 4, 2005
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st louis mo.
Dec 23, 2005
#4
  • Dec 23, 2005
  • #4
if their not out to far they will spin in with big channel locks if not you need the tool,free rental at the zone
 

boulderado

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Dec 23, 2005
#5
  • Dec 23, 2005
  • #5
hazze4ya said:
if their not out to far they will spin in with big channel locks if not you need the tool,free rental at the zone
Click to expand...

They're out pretty far. Ill try to spin them in, if that doesnt work Ill hit up the zone. Thanks for the advice.
 

tomustang

Psychotic Member
Founding Member
Jun 8, 2000
3,434
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78
McLean Hospital
Dec 23, 2005
#6
  • Dec 23, 2005
  • #6
yeah the calipers have to turned to go back in, the tool has little finger grips on them to help twist it back in

 

triggz

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May 15, 2002
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Gadsden, AL
Dec 23, 2005
#7
  • Dec 23, 2005
  • #7
They're pretty hard to turn without the tool. Two people can do it with a set of needle nose pliars and a lot of gruntwork, and a few busted knuckles
 
5

5literstang

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Clark, NJ
Dec 23, 2005
#8
  • Dec 23, 2005
  • #8
I'm working on my friends 97 Cobra. We are having the same issue with the rear calipers. We have to tools to spin the piston back in, and it goes in a little bit, but it still needs to recess about another 1/4 inch. And we continue to spin it, but it doesn't seem to be moving. We opened the bleeders to see if that would release pressure, and didn't help. Does anyone know what could be going wrong?
 

1LowGT

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st louis mo.
Dec 23, 2005
#9
  • Dec 23, 2005
  • #9
maybe too thick aftermarket pads,ive had that happen
 
5

5literstang

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Dec 23, 2005
#10
  • Dec 23, 2005
  • #10
hazze4ya said:
maybe too thick aftermarket pads,ive had that happen
Click to expand...

We have Hawk pads for the car. Could that be why?
 

1LowGT

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st louis mo.
Dec 23, 2005
#11
  • Dec 23, 2005
  • #11
possibly,i have no experience with hawk pads but alot of aftermarket pads seem to be fatter and they go on but are a pain
 
5

5literstang

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Apr 15, 2003
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Clark, NJ
Dec 23, 2005
#12
  • Dec 23, 2005
  • #12
Well I can't get the piston to compress any farther in... it still has about a 1/4 inch to go... I don't think the pads are too thick because hawk has a great reputation and I think they would be prefect oem replacements.

If anyone knows why I couldn't get the piston to recess or if anyone has any ideas on how to get it to recess I'd appreciate it. Thanks
 

triggz

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Dec 24, 2005
#13
  • Dec 24, 2005
  • #13
5literstang said:
Well I can't get the piston to compress any farther in... it still has about a 1/4 inch to go... I don't think the pads are too thick because hawk has a great reputation and I think they would be prefect oem replacements.

If anyone knows why I couldn't get the piston to recess or if anyone has any ideas on how to get it to recess I'd appreciate it. Thanks
Click to expand...

Put a lot of force behind it too. It has to be pushed while its turning.. we had that problem doing it with pliars.
 
B

bdcardinal

tree hugger
Jun 10, 2003
3,612
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69
santa barbara, CA
Dec 24, 2005
#14
  • Dec 24, 2005
  • #14
also you might want to bring the caliper into a parts store and have them compare it with a new one. it could be that the piston is seized and will not travel farther.
 

boulderado

New Member
Mar 1, 2004
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San Diego, CA
Dec 24, 2005
#15
  • Dec 24, 2005
  • #15
So Ive tried to push the caliper back in by turning, and releasing the valve and it wont budge. Its out so far now that the old pads wont even fit on. I need to take it to a shop but the wheel wont fit back on with the caliper there. If I remove the caliper anything I need to know about doing so? Will the other brakes function if this caliper is removed or will I have to tow? Thanks
 

triggz

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May 15, 2002
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Gadsden, AL
Dec 24, 2005
#16
  • Dec 24, 2005
  • #16
boulderado said:
So Ive tried to push the caliper back in by turning, and releasing the valve and it wont budge. Its out so far now that the old pads wont even fit on. I need to take it to a shop but the wheel wont fit back on with the caliper there. If I remove the caliper anything I need to know about doing so? Will the other brakes function if this caliper is removed or will I have to tow? Thanks
Click to expand...


Fluid will spill out from the piston chamber when you hit the brakes if its not stopped by the disc and pads. It can only come out so far. You can remove the whole caliper, but you have to cap off that brake line.. I wouldnt try it.

It takes probably 30 turns to thread the piston back in. Several turns with a lot of pushing force just to get it started... Go ahead and unscrew the piston completely so you can be sure youre lining it up right.

Have someone hold the caliper and try to start it with needle-nose pliars if the tool isnt working right. When I say a lot of pushing force, I mean you should be trying to shove the other person down holding the caliper while youre turning.


I would recommend removing the caliper completely and disassembling it (its very simple) and cleaning up the piston chamber really good. It could be gummed up. Spray it down with the strongest cleaner you can find, then torch the hell out of it. Glowing red is fine (just dont mess up the threads).. Scrub the threads down really good with a brush and things might go in easier.

BTW, you're gonna need to bleed the lines when its back on.
 

Dusstbuster

I love meat more than anything! I just have a spec
May 31, 2004
1,462
33
64
Moorhead, Minnesota
Dec 24, 2005
#17
  • Dec 24, 2005
  • #17
I do my rears with needlenose pliars no problem
Hold it like this and turn

 

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5literstang

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Apr 15, 2003
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Dec 24, 2005
#18
  • Dec 24, 2005
  • #18
Thanks guys I really appreciate all of your help!
 

boulderado

New Member
Mar 1, 2004
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San Diego, CA
Dec 27, 2005
#19
  • Dec 27, 2005
  • #19
No matter what I did I couldnt seem to get the piston back in. I ended up bringing into a shop and it took them an hour and a half to get it back in and they were using that special tool. I had to have it towed by AAA and it was a pain to get it on the flat bed. When it was all said and done I spent $100 on labor to have the pads swapt and I bought them originally. I never knew I would have so much trouble doing a simple pad swap....
 
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