Help anyone?? Wifes car wouldn't start yesterday in rain.It has had an intermitant misfire for a while so I replaced the coil pack and plugs/wires.Still missfireso out with the code reader,throws code 0352 bad ign primary circuit.So I test all conections check all wires clear back to the ecu.No grounds ,no shorts.So I do the primary output test in the manual to see if the test light flashes when the engine turns over."By the way cleaned all grounds ect.first" when you connect the light to red/blue wire for coil 3/4 light glows steady but dim even without engine cranking. My question is ,is the ecu gone or could there be another problem I am missing? Does anyone know of a fix for this? coil no 3/4 has no spark at all.Changed coil pak with another and still the same. Sorry for the long post but I have spent 2 days on this thing w/no luck.
Need help with code 0352 ign coil primary circuit fault
- Thread starter Orange66
- Start date
MustangLX-5.0
Founding Member
What year is this ? I doubt it's a bad PCM . Check the wiring to the coil pack. Make sure they aren't loose. Follow the wiring into the harness, make sure there isn't a cut or break in the wiring someplace. The barely glowing light would indicate there is a connection, but the connection is very poor.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
First, I am going to assume the MY is 1999-2004.
If you place a test light on the RD/LB circuit (#3/4 cylinder) and the light is on all the time, this indicates there is a FAULT in the circuit (ground) or the PCM is bad.
Do not run the car in this condition or it will burn up the coil pack.
Does this car have an after market alarm system? Has anything happen to damage the car's wiring?
Disconnect the coil pack electrical connector. Measure the resistance between the RD/LB wire and battery neg (key on/engine off). Post the result.
Disconnect the PCM connector. Measure the resistance between the RD/LB wire and battery negative (key off). Post the results.
What we are trying to narrow down is where the ground fault is (wiring or coil driver in PCM).
>>From Ford service CD
P0351 Through P0360 - Ignition Coil A through J Primary/ Secondary Circuit Malfunction
Each ignition primary circuit is continuously monitored. The test fails when the PCM does not receive a valid IDM pulse signal from the ignition module (integrated in PCM).
Open or short in Ignition START/RUN circuit
Open coil driver circuit in harness
Coil driver circuit shorted to ground
Damaged coil
Damaged PCM
Coil driver circuit shorted to PWR
If you place a test light on the RD/LB circuit (#3/4 cylinder) and the light is on all the time, this indicates there is a FAULT in the circuit (ground) or the PCM is bad.
Do not run the car in this condition or it will burn up the coil pack.
Does this car have an after market alarm system? Has anything happen to damage the car's wiring?
Disconnect the coil pack electrical connector. Measure the resistance between the RD/LB wire and battery neg (key on/engine off). Post the result.
Disconnect the PCM connector. Measure the resistance between the RD/LB wire and battery negative (key off). Post the results.
What we are trying to narrow down is where the ground fault is (wiring or coil driver in PCM).
>>From Ford service CD
P0351 Through P0360 - Ignition Coil A through J Primary/ Secondary Circuit Malfunction
Each ignition primary circuit is continuously monitored. The test fails when the PCM does not receive a valid IDM pulse signal from the ignition module (integrated in PCM).
Open or short in Ignition START/RUN circuit
Open coil driver circuit in harness
Coil driver circuit shorted to ground
Damaged coil
Damaged PCM
Coil driver circuit shorted to PWR
Sorry,The Mustang is a 2002 V6 with 5speedmanual trans.Should have posted that. The car is completely stock, no aftermarket alarm and nothing has been done to it to disturb the wiring harness . I have checked the wire from the coil plug to the large connecter at the firewall and no grounds or shorts are showing up. I will have to check the resistance from the plug at the ecu like you asked.I will do that tonight after work.What setting on the meter should I be using to ohm it out??? Just a footnote, the car was running fine the night before it wouldnt start, not cel light and ran fine.next morning wouldn't start at all.Did the usual and checked all fuses and connections finally started and of course was running rough then it threw the cel light and code 0352.Thanks for the input.I will post the results tonight after I get home from work.
Okay heres the results from the tests. With the wires unplugged from the coil with key on,Red and blue wire meter set at 200 85.2 at 2k .094 pink/white read 0 same with blue/green.
Disconected from the pcm red and blue to neg read 0. tested wire from coil connection to pcm connector tested good.
So I am assuming that means the coil driver in the ECU is bad.Unless I am missing something else here.
Disconected from the pcm red and blue to neg read 0. tested wire from coil connection to pcm connector tested good.
So I am assuming that means the coil driver in the ECU is bad.Unless I am missing something else here.
Sounds like by your tests so far, you may have a faulty coil driver in the PCM. If you wire a 21 watt test bulb across the driver circuit for 3 & 4 coils ( red/grn to red/blu) with the coil pack disconnected..... it should blink when you crank the engine, can you splice AT the PCM & do this? That way you are bypassing nearly all possible bad wiring/ connections from the PCM. You could also do the same test with the coil pack connected backprobed at the coil pack plug, but in your case it seems that the coil driver circuit in the PCM is shot .
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
We need to confirm what is meant when you say zero. Do you actually mean infinity as in very high? Or does it means ZERO as in very low?
If the RD/LB wire reads 85.2 Ohms (key on/engine off) and the others coil circuits read infinity, and all three coil driver circuits goes to infinity when the PCM side is disconnected, then a bad PCM coil driver is most likely the cause.
If when you say zero, you mean zero Ohms, then we need to repeat the measurements as there is something wrong with the meter or the tester.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Bad 3/4 coil driver. Replace PCM
Based upon the test results posted, IMO, the #3/4 coil driver in the PCM is bad. You could try pulling the PCM and inspecting the printed circuit board. Sometimes a burnt foil trace can be spoted. In some rare cases it can be repaired (solder and/or wire bridge or a cat's wisker solder bridge).
The number 3/4 coil driver is on PCM Pin #52.
Note, if you get a replacement PCM from a salavage yard (car-part.com) get from the same year, engine, and transmission. However, the PATS will have to be reprogrammed or PATS disabled with a turner.
Depending upon your circumstances, it may be an idea to purchase the PCM and take it to the dealer for re-programming. If the original PCM is still installed, the "as built" information can be down loaded before PCM removal.
Getting the car to the dealer is problematic. If driven, disconnect the #3/4 fuel injectors so that the raw gas does not ruin the cats. I have no idea how bad it will drive on 4 cylinders. Depending upon distance, a tow should be considered.
Of couse it is not a bad idea to find out how much your dealer wants for a new PCM before purchasing an used one.
Good luck.
Based upon the test results posted, IMO, the #3/4 coil driver in the PCM is bad. You could try pulling the PCM and inspecting the printed circuit board. Sometimes a burnt foil trace can be spoted. In some rare cases it can be repaired (solder and/or wire bridge or a cat's wisker solder bridge).
The number 3/4 coil driver is on PCM Pin #52.
Note, if you get a replacement PCM from a salavage yard (car-part.com) get from the same year, engine, and transmission. However, the PATS will have to be reprogrammed or PATS disabled with a turner.
Depending upon your circumstances, it may be an idea to purchase the PCM and take it to the dealer for re-programming. If the original PCM is still installed, the "as built" information can be down loaded before PCM removal.
Getting the car to the dealer is problematic. If driven, disconnect the #3/4 fuel injectors so that the raw gas does not ruin the cats. I have no idea how bad it will drive on 4 cylinders. Depending upon distance, a tow should be considered.
Of couse it is not a bad idea to find out how much your dealer wants for a new PCM before purchasing an used one.
Good luck.
I have a new ecu on its way.They couldn't flash it as Fords website went down yesterday,so I should have it today.Price on the ecu is 159.95 plus 105.00 for the flash.If I have to reprogram the pats key it will be another 100.00 to come to the house and program it.So grand total will be about 450.00 for the repair.Ford wanted 470.00 for the computer and 65.00 to flash it.God only knows what they would want to charge to test and replace the ecu on top of the parts cost. I will let you know how it goes.Thanks to all for your time and help.
wmburns
SN Certified Technician
Sounds like you found another source for a NEW (or used?) PCM other than Ford. Can you tell us about it? Esp since they will sell it with a calibration already flashed.
As for the PATS key, it will have to be re-programmed (or disable) if you expect it to start. Remember, the process is actually two way. The PCM has the unique ID of the cluster encoded and the Cluster has the unique ID of the PCM encoded. The key codes are stored in the PATS module, but since the new PCM will not know the PATS module's ID (and the other way around), PATS will not work.
So if possible, have the supplier send the PCM out with PATS disabled. Then you will be able to drive the car to have it re-programmed. This will save the cost of a house call.
As for the PATS key, it will have to be re-programmed (or disable) if you expect it to start. Remember, the process is actually two way. The PCM has the unique ID of the cluster encoded and the Cluster has the unique ID of the PCM encoded. The key codes are stored in the PATS module, but since the new PCM will not know the PATS module's ID (and the other way around), PATS will not work.
So if possible, have the supplier send the PCM out with PATS disabled. Then you will be able to drive the car to have it re-programmed. This will save the cost of a house call.
I got the ecu from my local parts store.The computer is rebuilt from Cardone.You have to give them your vehicle vin to flash it.There are a few computers that require the flash.Apparently because mine has the F in the code it is one of them.I really don't like the Pats key deal.I didn't know it could be disabled and am waiting for the locksmith to get here to reprogram it.In my opinion that is a bunch of @#$!& done by Ford to keep you from repairing your own vehicle.
I will let you know how it goes after the keys get reset.Thanks again for your help.
Also you can get your computers from Auto Computer exchange.They are located in Florida you can find them on the web.The guy that does my smogging out here recommended them.
I will let you know how it goes after the keys get reset.Thanks again for your help.
Also you can get your computers from Auto Computer exchange.They are located in Florida you can find them on the web.The guy that does my smogging out here recommended them.
repaired and running
Well I ended up having to take the car to Ford to reprogram the PATS.The locksmith couldn't get it to work but at least no charge to me. Picked up the wifes car yesterday and it is running great,better than it had for awhile. I guess the computer had been going on the fritz for some time and just finally threw in the towel.
Thanks again for all the help in sorting this out.Your help was invaluable in chasing this down and getting it fixed.
Well I ended up having to take the car to Ford to reprogram the PATS.The locksmith couldn't get it to work but at least no charge to me. Picked up the wifes car yesterday and it is running great,better than it had for awhile. I guess the computer had been going on the fritz for some time and just finally threw in the towel.
Thanks again for all the help in sorting this out.Your help was invaluable in chasing this down and getting it fixed.
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