Need help with fuel problem

[stooges701]

Need help with new engine running problem

I just got my car togeather and I have a problem with somthing but i dont know what.
This is what I have

1992
306
Anderson ford N-21 cam
Afr 165 heads
Tubular gt-40 intake
75mm throttle body, and 75mm mass air
30lb fuel injectors with matching mass air
255 in tank fuel pump
Aeromotive adjustable fuel regulator
ford racing headers

The problem:
I have the fuel pressure at 40psi, timming is at 14. After I got it started I set the idle at 900 with the IAC motor disconected and the tps sensor at .98 volts. To get the car to start I have to hold the throtlle down and it stubbles to start but it will start. When it starts It puffs lots of black smoke then clear ups. The idle surges for 900 to 1000. I have checked for vacum leaks with carbon choke and cant find any.
I dont know what to do next i need some suggestions.

 

[HISSIN50]

Sounds like too much cranking fuel. Has it been tuned?

Good luck.

 

[stooges701]

The computer has not been tuned. What could be done to tune it without tuning the computer (fuel pressure, timing, etc.).

 

[HISSIN50]

You will be hard pressed to do much with those items, since FP will adapt pulsewidth (sans WOT). And timing wont affect FP or delivery much.

Now if you are rich across the board, then backing FP down could help, if you are at the adaptive limit right now.

You are not alone with said issues and 30's. Some guys live with it, some get a chip and some run a handheld (namely TwEECer RT or PMS). Some tuners can tune with your handheld (esp a TwEECer since it allows more tunability. Talk to Mike et al about what tuners can do with a PMS if that sounds good).

My two cents. Good luck.

 

[stooges701]

the car will not start with under then 35 psi fuel pressure. Would bumping my compression to 10.1 have alot to do with my timing. I just dont know what to do. I see poeple with set ups like mine running fine all day, how do they do it?

 

[stooges701]

Well I still l havent figured it out yet. I need someone to help me that is running a 5.0 with heads and a cam with around 512. lift and 108 lobe seperation. Should the car be hard to start? Also what should I run for fuel pressure and timming, Iam running 10.1 compression, also I seems thats my engine wants alot of timming. It seems to start easier with more timming, it dont make any sence. Thiers no much fule in the system right now, the reason I know this is becouse my plugs are clean, also my headers were black and now thier supper clean.

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.

Look for code 21 . Note that that if the outside air temp is below 50 degrees F that the test for the ECT can be in error.

 

[stooges701]

only codes in the computer are 94 and 44. But I cant figure out how to fix them, or even whats exactly wrong

 

[jrichker]

Codes 44 & 94 are not the cause of your problems. Here's the test path for troubleshooting them.


Codes 94 & 44 - AIR system inoperative - Air Injection. Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks. Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve. The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.
The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheelwell turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

The computer provides the ground to complete the circuit to power the solenoid valve that turns the vacuum on or off. The computer is located under the passenger side kick panel. Remove the kick panel & the cover over the computer wiring connector pins. Check Pin 38 Solenoid valve #1 that provides vacuum to the first Thermactor control valve for a switch from 12-14 volts to 1 volt or less. Do the same with pin 32 solenoid valve #2 that provides vacuum to the second Thermactor control valve. Starting the engine with the computer jumpered to self test mode will cause all the actuators to toggle on and off. If after doing this and you see no switching of the voltage on and off, you can start testing the wiring for shorts to ground and broken wiring. An Ohm check to ground with the computer connector disconnected & the solenoid valves disconnected should show open circuit between the pin 32 and ground and again on pin 38 and ground. In like manner, there should be less than 1 ohm between pin 32 and solenoid valve #2 and pin 38 & Solenoid valve #1.

If after checking the resistance of the wiring & you are sure that there are no wiring faults, start looking at the solenoid valves. If you disconnect them, you can jumper power & ground to them to verify operation. Power & ground supplied should turn on the vacuum flow, remove either one and the vacuum should stop flowing.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif