Need help with H pipe removal

Dr Jay

Member
Jan 1, 2004
134
0
16
Canada
Ok guys, I've got 3 of the 4 nuts loose up front but the dreaded lower nut on the passenger side has striped quite bad.

I'm thinking of removing the starter so I can get my hand in there to heat the nut. Anyone have any other suggestions? How many bolts are holding the stater on and how hard is it to get out?
 
Don't remove the starter, it's a bitch. You using a universal joint and a 1/2" thick extension? Make sure you have the right sized socket, if it's stripped try a smller foreign metric socket and go to the next size smaller mm. Don't use an impact wrench if it's stripped, just gradual torque via you
AND USE LOTS OF LIQUID WRENCH
 
secret

I'll give you my secret. :nice:

Go to Sears and buy a 3/8" drive 5/8" 6 point deep socket with built in swivel.

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I know that it is not the exact size of the nut, but TRUST ME, this works like a charm. Use it with your extension and a long breaker bar.

I have changed 2 of my stangs midpipes this way and helped 2 other people. For the passenger side, this is the hot ticket and it's a 6 point so no stripping the nut like you did.

If it's really stubborn buy some P.B. Blaster and spray that on, let it soak for about 30 minutes and then try it again. Wear gloves, that stuff stinks and your hands will stink forever if you get it on your skin.
 
I'm using a 6 point with a universal and breaker bar etc. I've even soaked it with PB Blaster for the last two days. I don't have much for deep metric sockets, had to go out and buy this one but maybe if I drop down one size I can hammer it on there and get some torque onto it that way:shrug:

Cobra Red
I'm using 1/2" drive and no impact wrench but it's sliping now so the smaller socket may work (gota go buy one)
 
Well I picked up a 14mm socket but wasn't able to hammer it on there. I also picked up a nut breaker but that was also a waste so far as it's such a bad spot to work in. Any other ideas guys:shrug: I've got everything else off so I don't want to take it to a shop, I really want to do this myself and don't mind buying tools to get it done but I'm out of ideas at the moment.
 
I did the same damn thing to mine. I broke the bolt off, dont do that! It wasnt moving though. I wound up just getting some stupid shorty headers and just knocking it all out at once. Done by a mechanic of course. Good luck, but I think you may have to take drastic measures.
 
start her up

Start the car up and run it for a few minutes, that should heat it up good and losen it up.

I'm telling you though, get to Sears and buy a 3/8" drive 5/8" 6 point deep socket with built in swivel. I think it's around $10 but you can return it when you are done. You gotta go 3/8" drive to get in there and get it exactly flush. If it doesnt seat 100% thats when you strip the nut.
 
H Pipe Changed

Well I finally got the MRT H Pipe on.:D That was an experience I won't soon forget:nonono: The nut on the passenger side took me forever to get off after I stripped it:nonono: . I went out and purchased a dremel tool and a nut breaker but it was such a hard spot to work from that I couldn't accomplish much. While lying on the ground under the car one night staring at that nut I noticed that I could get to it from the side if I took the passenger tire off. After hammering on the top of that nut with a cold chisel for about 40 min it finally came loose. The new pipe took some tweaking to get positioned perfectly but the car sounds exactly as I hoped:hail2: That MRT pipe was worth every penny!

Only think I noticed is my tips are stuck out a bit further now and I always thought they were out too far to begin with so I'm going to have them cut off and tucked back in a bit. Has anyone else had this problem?

Oh yeah, I'm going to try to get a vid or sound clip tomorrow if the weather cooperates.

Thanks for all the help guys and SVTpower was right about the 3/8" drive, it's a must for that lower nut