Need help with line lock , where to buy good one BUT not expensive

[Slow5.0]

Well i have burn 3 KC and 1 HD clutches in last 3 years
Biggest reason is because i don't have line lock and i power brake in burnout box in 2nd gear to heat up my Nittos and on launch i have to slip clutch because thats i cut good 60ft but by doing power breaking i heat up clutch and on launch clutch start slipping on me so i decide to get line lock

I have hear some stories that our 94-95 Stangs needs two line locks because of ABS BUT some other peole says we need just one, so why pay for two line locks when one will work just fine

So who makes good line lock BUT not expensive ;and i don't wanna buy a few kits to make one ,so i wanna buy everything in one package if is possible

And i will appreciate some good install info too with pics

Thank you

 

[blksn955.o]

I am going to go with the biondo or however its spelled one from summit. It is a preaty basic line lock but I already have the switch, wire, and we need a specific line kit or fitting anyway for our brakes.

preaty hard to beat the price your basicly paying for just a noid.

 

[Koniz]

I would get a regular hurst linelock, get earls -3 or -4 stanless lines get the right fittings you need and your done your ready to go.

You might have to shut your abs when you use the line lock but that shouldnt be too hard to do just find the positive or ground to the abs and run a switch to it so you can shut it off and on

 

[Cobra4075]

I used a hurst line lock all of last year with no problems. Never had a problem with my ABS either. I bought their adapter kit for a mustang which was a waste. Just make a trip to the parts store to get a few fittings and some line. I would highly reccomend this for anyone that goes to the track.

 

[Koniz]

Dude everybody that is serious about drag racing, the hurst line lock is the way to go. When I worked for Winners Circle Speed and Custom in Illinois, I sold parts to all kinds of IHRA, NHRA, and NMRA people. They all buy the hurst linelock.

 

[Stangfreak95]

The 2 linelocks theory is bullchit. You dont need two. I had one and did douzens and douzens of burnouts and never had a problem with my brakes on regular driving. I had a TCI linelock from Summit racing. Something like 85$ or so. Just had to go to your local autostore and pick up a few fittings and the tool to double-flare, or bubble-flare. Cant remember which. Here's a pic of my install, once I had the engine removed for H/c/I. DOnt worry about that ugly bend I have over there. I was in a rush to install it and to go test it at the track the same day and never fixed it in a nicer way. The second pic is from somebody else and I guess you can pick up a few infos there also about the size of fittings and lines.

 

[Slow5.0]

Bottom pic looks like its non ABS car right ?
BTW why Hurst line lock have extra brake line

 

[mytight95]

Ernie, i am in the same boat as you fixing to install mine..... From what i can tell the top pic stangfreak posted is how the instructions for mine say to do it...... I have aB&M unit, looks identical to stangfreaks pic


not to intrude on your thread, but i figure i would suscribe rather than start another one...



jason

 

[mytight95]

Oh yeah, Stangfreak...... i assume it doesn't matter which one of the wires you hook to the positive adn negative right, just put the inline fuse between the positive and ground the other somewhere.......or does it have to go to the switch.......


Where has everyone put their switches...?


jason

 

[Cobra4075]

I ran mine inside the console so i could get at I by opening the ashtray door.

 

[Stangfreak95]

I had mine in my ashtray on a metal switch plate. Had all the nitrous stuff in there as well. They give you some push-button switch that you need to hold it IN to make it work. I didnt like that. I wanted a regular ON/OFF switch that I click once to lock the brakes, and click OFF to let the car roll after the burnout. Any switch will do pretty much.

Also I have ABS on my stang so just to confirm that you dont need 2 linelocks again.

Here's the instructions that came with my linelock:
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/tci-861700.pdf

Wiring the solenoid. The solenoid has two (2) wires: One (1) ground wire
and one (1) hot wire that will be connected to micro-switch. Proper installation is required. Make sure that the black ground wire is connected to a good clean contact area. When connecting wires, use barrel connectors or other proper electrical connectors. If additional wire is required, use only the same gauge or larger.

A Snap-Lock Fuse holder and four (4) amp fuse have been provided with your kit. Fuse holder should be connected between the TCI Roll Stop and 12 volt positive (+) power source; before the micro-switch.

Wiring and mounting micro-switch. DISCONNECT Battery. The bracket provided can be easily mounted in a variety of locations. The switch must be mounted for easy operation. We suggest mounting close to the steering wheel or on the shifter. After you have selected where the switch will be mounted, measure length of wire needed to connect micro-switch to solenoid.
Use at least a 22-gauge wire. You will need to run two (2) wires from the micro switch. One wire will be connected to solenoid (red wire), and the other wire (black) will be connected to the positive 12-volt system after the 4-amp fuse.

 

[Slow5.0]

I would like to get one of those switches that came with Hurst line lock and than get another on/off switch for "armed" and first one just hold until burnout is done