Electrical Need Help With My 95 Gt

JordanB21 · Jun 23, 2012

are you saying that you press down on the pedals and the RPMs pick up and the car moving is hesitant? video would be great. Also make sure you're not getting any misfires from misplaced wires on the distributor head. did it a few times myself.

toyman · Jun 23, 2012

ssjmaverick23 said:
Well I went and picked up a stock replacement MAF and put on the car did pretty good up till it warmed up then went back to doing it. Can a torque converter cause these problems? My father unlawful mentioned it I really hope that's not my problem. When its acting up it feels like something is clogged.

Just to refresh our memories, what is the issue being referred to when you said "then went back to doing it". What is the "it"?

ssjmaverick23 · Jun 23, 2012

After getting the car warm it will shake as you are trying to accelerate and the tachometer seems to be jumpy when.this happens kinda feels like something is clogged.it kinda seems like it does it around 1700-3800 rpms roughly more or less then it will take off. I've done this with OD on and off and manual shifting just feels like something is clogged up.

99FiveOh · Jun 24, 2012

Sounds to me like the lock up function on the tranny is fubared. If the torque converter is locking up off idle it will cause these symptoms. This is usually caused by a wiring defect, computer problem or bad lock up solenoid in the transmission.

ssjmaverick23 · Jun 24, 2012

If that's the case what do I need to look for? If I go to a tranny shop can they hook it to a computer to test for the problem? When I first got the car I changed the filter and fluid in the tranny (not all the fluid just what's in the pan) and added some shudder fix that was recommended by a local shop which worked good. I had not really thought of a tranny problem since it felt like it was commingle from the motor. I can't recall other 5.0 but when you start the car if you watch the motor its not real smooth just looks rough but revs great.

toyman · Jun 24, 2012

Have you checked for any trouble codes? There are a couple specific to the TC functions. Try this link to see how it's done. A transmission shop may be able to test or rely on their experience based on a test drive.

ssjmaverick23 · Jun 24, 2012

OK I picked up a code scanner that shows the number code not flashing lights when I did the KOEO it passed but when I did KOER I got code 172 before sensor fault/lean. I think I did the test right going to reread the book and do it again to double check. I had a problem once with a 99f150 4.6 that gave a code for lean and it ended up being carbon build up in the egr tube once cleaned the truck ran great could I be experienceing the same problem? That was a few years ago so I can't really remember how it was acting but want to say it was about the same.

ssjmaverick23 · Jun 24, 2012

Also the o2 sensors are new and had the same problems before they were changed out when I did the exhaust

toyman · Jun 24, 2012

With respect to the 172 code move the O2 sensors to see if the problem moves with the sensor. Have you checked the fuel pressure? I see the fuel filter was changed but didn't see mention of the pressure. Want to eliminate a fuel pump and regulator as being a possible cause of the stumbling.

ssjmaverick23 · Jun 25, 2012

No I have not been able to test fuel pressure I don't have a gauge yet. I did pull the vac line off the fuel pressure regulator and did not have any drops of gas if that helps any.

ssjmaverick23 · Jun 27, 2012

I haven't gotten a chance to pick up a fuel pressure gauge and test hopefully this weekend I can. But I did want to mention that the car idles around 900 and I can't get it any lower not really sure what its supposed to be I was told around 600 it will drop to around 600 I think when you put it in drive also when you Rev it it comes back down slowly it will come down to 1500 then slowly drop nothing appears to be sticking when I looked it over unless the bbk needs to be adjusted ( I bought it used and the PO said he had adjusted it for his car but could not remember how much)

ssjmaverick23 · Jun 29, 2012

OK I picked up a fuel pressure gauge and tested and got 31 psi and with it running when I would Rev it. It would jump to 41. Also I pulled the vac line off the egr and there was no change and I replaced the
Electric coolant temperature sensor

99FiveOh · Jun 29, 2012

Now you need to see what fuel pressure is doing under load.

ssjmaverick23 · Jun 29, 2012

What is the best way to do that? Do those other number's sound ok

ssjmaverick23 · Jun 30, 2012

Here is a short video not as bad as it has done it but still doing it.
<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid22.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fb322%2Fssjmaverick23%2FMotorrunning2.mp4">

ssjmaverick23 · Jul 2, 2012

94stangfan · Jul 3, 2012

a bad torque converter will start showing itself early on when shifting between 2nd and 3rd gear. You will feel the car shake when it shifts. If not addressed properly, the shudder will start happening between other gears and eventually kill the transmission. I have not heard of a transmission causing a car to do what you are saying. vacuum leak, yes, timing issue, yes, but never a torque converter. When I have experience this in the past, it would spit and sputter and eventually backfire if timing was the issue.

Does it still have cats on it? potentially are those plugged?

ssjmaverick23 · Jul 3, 2012

There are no cats on the car and I replaced the o2 sensors when I did the exhaust a couple months ago. Also when the car is running and you look at the motor it looks like it has a can from the way it shakes.

ssjmaverick23 · Jul 4, 2012

OK I've been out this morning working on the car I cleaned the egr valve while I had it off I sucked on the vac tube and the digraph seemed to be fine. Drove the car no change I checked vac lines and all seemed fine but the one that works the blend door so I fixed that. I put the scanner on the car and I'm still getting code 172 but this. Time it said I was a 4 cylinder the the next time said 6 cylinder but regardless I still get code 172 I don't have a way at the moment to swap the o2 sensors. I swapped the 70 bbk TB. Back to stock. And put timing at 10 With spout out. Car ran the same but the rpms did come down a bit at Ireland maybe 800 and when at a light it was at 600 or so. I also put a new cap and rottor on (they came with the new distributor) I just canno figure it out and its driving me nuts and I'm sure its something stupid. I just hope its not the tranny causing all my problems.

ssjmaverick23 · Jul 4, 2012

http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b322/ssjmaverick23/?action=view&current=Motorrunning2.mp4
i hope this video works its not the best but its there seems like everytime i pull out the camera it will run good or i get some idiot pull out when i get on it so i have to let off.

Electrical Need Help With My 95 Gt

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