need info on classic mustangs

billison · Sep 24, 2006

:SNSign: ok , i'm in the middle of tring to sell my 2 foxs so i can buy a classic, i've always liked the 67 coupes, but i need to know what the differnces are, what is differnt between 64 and 65 and 66 and 67 and so on, what do i need to look for? thanks can't wait to be in the classic forums with classic problems

86bluecobra · Sep 24, 2006

One thing i know is the 67 was the first year of the big blocks i believe so there is actually more room between the strut towers for engines.

blue65coupe · Sep 24, 2006

billison, welcome to the classic side. '67 did start the big block era with stangs. I like 'em all but am partial to the 65-66 with a preference for '65. It's the little things like the side chrome, gas cap, etc. Your question will get a ton of responses. It's a little vague. First look for frame rust and rusted floor pans. If you go with a '65-'66 that already has a v8, make sure it is a v8 car and not an I6 with a v8 dropped in unless it's been completely converted. Other than that, where do you want to go and how much do you want to spend.

billison · Sep 24, 2006

well it depends on what the foxs sell for, i think the main things i'm looking at is body wise what are the changes from 66 to 67? and what do i look for to know it's a original v8 car or being changed the right way? thanks

danny clemens · Sep 24, 2006

The 64 1/2 (which is titled 65) is the same body style as the 65-66 with a lot of small cosmetic differences. The 67-68's are the same body style with some cosmetic differences. The 69-70's are the same style with cosmetic differences. The 71-73's are the same body style with cosmetic differences.

billison · Sep 24, 2006

ok so what is the change from 64/66 to 67/68? maybe some pics? thanks

Jester67 · Sep 24, 2006

What to look for
Cowl rust is the number one thing lost of cost to fix and a pain
Frame rust is next
If the floor pans are gone check the cowl, always check the cowl.

64.5-66 are the same body style; 67-68 shares the same body style. The 67 was a transition year it has some parts that are early style while having some that would become standard on the 68-70. It also has some unique 67 only parts like the LCA and strut rod. There where three steering boxes used in 67 the early are for the 66 and the later are like the 68 with out the collapsible steering column 67 is the last year for the four piston K/H brakes. 67 is the only year for the side scoops and did not have side markers. Other things changed for 68 when Ford cost reduced the design.

Jester67 · Sep 24, 2006

http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Features/articleId=93320
Second Generation (1967-1968)

By 1967, the Mustang had something it hadn't had before: competition. Chevrolet was now making the Camaro, Pontiac the Firebird, and Plymouth had redesigned the Barracuda into a more serious machine. Even within Ford, Mercury was now selling the Cougar.

Ford's response to that competition was a new, slightly larger Mustang with an all-new body over what was pretty much the same chassis. The wheelbase was still 108 inches, but total length was up two inches to 183.6 inches and every styling feature was just a little bit exaggerated — the grille opening was bigger, the side scallops deeper, the taillights were now larger and concave instead of modest and convex, the 2+2 fastback's roof now extended all the way back to the trunk lid's trailing edge and the convertible's rear window was now a two-piece item made of real glass instead of instantly hazing plastic. A hood with dual recesses was optional.

The standard power plant was now the 200-cubic-inch six making 120 horsepower with a 250-cubic-inch (4.1-liter) 155-horsepower six and the 200-, 225- and 271-horsepower K-code 289 V8s optional. New on the menu was a 390-cubic-inch (6.4-liter) "big-block" V8 breathing through a Holley four-barrel carburetor making 315 horsepower. Accommodating that wider engine meant that the front suspension's track needed to be widened by 2.5 inches for clearance.

With its wider track, the '67 Mustang was a more stable car than the '66. The seats were more comfortable, and the instrumentation was easier to read. It was, generally speaking, a better car in every way that counted. Ford sold 356,271 coupes, 71,042 2+2s and 44,808 convertibles during '67 despite the new competition. Of those, only 472 cars were equipped with the 271-horsepower 289, while around 28,800 had the 390 under their hoods.

Federally mandated side marker lights and a revised grille distinguished the 1968 Mustang from the '67 on the outside, while a slew of new engines set it apart mechanically. A low-performance 195-horsepower 289 V8 was still an option, but the other 289s were gone in favor of two new 302-cubic-inch (4.9-liter) versions of the small block V8. The two-barrel 302 made 220 horsepower, while the four-barrel-equipped version put out 230 horsepower.

More glamorous than the revised small V8s were new 427- and 428-cubic-inch (both convert to about 7.0 liters) versions of the big-block V8. The more radical 427, which had a slightly higher-compression ratio and wilder cam, was rated at 390 horsepower, while the more civilized 428 knocked out 335 horsepower. Both the 427 and 428 were very rare options. Those big engines hinted at what was in store for the Mustang over the next few years.

CarFreakGT · Sep 24, 2006

First of all, welcome. I also just recently sold my Fox (89 GT in April this year) to buy a classic. It was a tough decision, and a lot of going back and forth, but I'm looking forward to getting dirty and turning some wrenches.

One thing that I can tell you are a couple of the more obvious styling differences between some of the models. **Anyone feel free to jump in if I'm in error on any of this.** The wheelbase of the 64 1/2 - 68's are all the same, but the 67-68 body is 2" longer and 2 1/2" wider. The nose of the 64 1/2-66 are a little shorter than that of the 67-68, and the tail lights are different. The 64-66 have what looks like a single light w/ a bezel that gives it a tri-segmented appearance. The 67-68 have three thin individual tail lights per side. (I think the 67-68 look a little more aggressive, but that's just personal opinion. Keep in mind, I have a 68. )

There are other differences and options that are less obvious--rear markers on 68, 'Mustang' on front fender went from block letters to script in 68, 'FORD' on front edge of hood was removed in 68, removal of "gills" in front of headlights in 67, different side scoops for different years, recessed turn signal indicators in the hood in 68--very cool . And, I'm sure, many more that I'm not thinking of right now.

Aside from surfing around online, you may want to consider doing some browsing in the 'Transportation' section of a local bookstore. There are usually at least a handful of books w/ some pretty good photos of different years. That was what I did when I was trying to get a better idea of what I was looking for. Heck, I even ended up buying a couple of them!

Good luck and have fun! I'm gathering parts for a front end rebuild right now. They're sitting in the corner of my basement until I get everything I need. Until the work can begin, I go stare longingly at them every couple of days.

Bryan

billison · Sep 24, 2006

yeah i can't wait it just sucks tring to sell my cars" 1 coupe 1 vert 5.0 and a 75 maverick" every couple days i just get someone who says they want it or wants to traid and then backs out, sucks back

Jester67 · Sep 24, 2006

CarFreakGT said:
(I think the 67-68 look a little more aggressive, but that's just personal opinion. Keep in mind, I have a 68. )

CarFreakGT said:
recessed turn signal indicators in the hood in 68--very cool . And, I'm sure, many more that I'm not thinking of right now.

This started in 67 as mine is an original turn single hood.

washMO66 · Sep 24, 2006

You really need to think about your goals with the car, you body style preferences etc. I am partial to the 65-66 because it started it all and in my opinion has cleaner lines than the 67 on (especially the 65-66 fastbacks).

When I think pony car, I think 65-66.

However, your goals with the car based on engine size is something to consider. 67 has more room with the stock suspension is you are looking to go big inch with big headers.

Pick the right car regardless of what you start with. Floor pans, COWL RUST, shock tower rust / cracks, general rust on frame rails, trunk floors. If they won't let you poke a little with a screw driver, more than likely its got some issues.

If you are looking to buy something that is not an orginal GT, K-code or something that will have any original value I see no problem starting with a clean 6 cyl car, they are cheaper and the suspension upgrades are not that big of a deal. My car was a 289 C-code and was rusty buddy, if only I knew what I know now I would have paid less and most likely gotten more.

Good luck and welcome.

67gt390 · Sep 25, 2006

I really suggest taking someone who knows classic mustangs before you buy. Take a magnet and if it is rusty RUN don't walk. As far as which one to get that is an impossible question to answer. From 64.5-69 they are all great.

billison · Sep 25, 2006

what about pony interior? what is the differce between regualr and pony?

Max Power · Sep 25, 2006

Billison, there are about a million books on this and if you check one out, you can see what all these differences are. Also, there are Mustang history web pages all over the internet. Just Google em.

I am not trying to duck your question, it's just so broad that it would require hours of typing.

Helmantel · Sep 25, 2006

I agree with Max Power. If you need to ask here what the general differences are between a 66 and a 67, then you're not ready for a classic Mustang (yet).

This is by no means meant to be a sarcastic comment or anything, but I would like to point out that it would be wise to do some reading, so that you have a basic knowledge about these cars. With that, you'll have a much better chance of making your classic Mustang purchase a success.

blue65coupe · Sep 25, 2006

Billison,
Great info coming from everyone. I'm going to have to agree with the guys on being ready. My advice (along with taking someone) is to just surf the internet for pics, go to a car show, pic up a mag, something that will help you decide your preference. DON'T look at modded up cars and say, "That's what I want". Look at stock pics, decide your style, look at modded pics to decide your upgrades. They're all good. All have ups and downs. One guy likes the '68 lamps, I like the '65. One guy likes this, the other that. Coupes are cheaper, 'backs are sportier, 'verts are classier. Decide your style. As far as a true v8 65-66 car, I can give you plenty of info. Mine was an original I6 with a 289 when bought. Just finished the "conversion". It included but not limited to: all new steering, rear end, front hubs or discs, wheels, (4 to 5 lug), ... The I6 was 4 lug. I wanted 5 lug with disc brakes. That resulted in new spindles, inner and outer tie rod ends, adjusting sleeves, drag link, pitman arm, idler arm and mounting bracket, rear end and brakes, driveshaft and also led to new upper and lower ball joints, shocks, etc. Now, if you have a choice between a solid I6 car and not so solid v8, go I6. The parts are bolt on. It beats the heck out of repairing rust. The nice thing with these cars is you'll never get bored. There is always something to do with them. Performance, looks, interior, whatever. That's the fun of it. We appreciate and enjoy the hobby, 'er life. Decide your style and go from there. No matter what you buy, you will get the nod from a fellow stanger while driving down the road. That's the beauty. Good luck and have fun. BTW--DON'T GET HASTY AND DON'T SPEND ALL YOUR MONEY ON THE PURCHASE.
1 more thing. If you want to buy the ultimate, semi-attainable for most people car, buy a '69 mach 1 in burgundy with gold striping. Leave it stock and drool forever.

LMan · Sep 25, 2006

The search feature and Google are your friends. Happy hunting!

Pakrat · Sep 25, 2006

Agreed on doing some internet searching, here's some links to start you out though.

http://***********.net/mustangs/timeline/ EDIT: Well that's lousy, I guess Stangnet won't let you post links to another Mustang site because they are replacing the key words with ***** on me. If you email me for the below check list I'll give you the site address then.

When I started my search years ago I found the Mustang illustrated buyers guide very helpful in choosing the car I wanted. There are many more too. I used to go to my local Barnes and Nobles at lunch several times a week, sit down and browse thru all the books unitl I found the one I liked best.

I have a nice little check list form that I modified to use when viewing potential cadidates, you can print it out and take it with you, this way you won't miss anything and can also factor in the cost of replacement parts needed to help negotiate the price. Unfortunately I can not save it in a format that will allow me to attach it to this thread but send me an email and I'll be happy to forward it to you.

Also as a very general price guideline you can go to www.nada.com to find the going rates for the cars you are looking at.

Do not rush into this and do not make a rash decision based on emotion. A better car always comes along and it's best to wait for the right one. I personally spent the better part of two years looking at dozens of local cars before finally going out to St. Louis and buying a 2nd owner truly rust free California car that made my dreams come true.

The best piece of advice I can give is buy the absolute best car you can afford right up front, especially since you are new to the hobby. More people buy a crapped out 1k car with dreams of fixing a few things and making a fortune then realize they are not capable of doing it themselves and pay a fortune to have someone else do it for them. Just look at all the adds for cars in parts that the seller has "lost interest" in. I chose to buy a car that I could use immediatley, but in need of enough care to keep me in the hobby and to learn from so that if I bought another car down the road I would be able to handle a full on restoration. If you are on a budget that's OK. Let's say for example you had only 5k to spend, a 5K car will cost you another 5 to 10k maybe to get it to the point that you are happy with which could mean years before you can enjoy it. Obviously not so much an issue since you have several cars to sell for capitol but when I bought mine years ago I had only 5k to start and with the help of www.jjbest.com I was able to buy a 10k car at ridiculously low interest with only 2k down which left me with 3k to spend on extras and I paid it off quick since I owned my daily driver and had no other car payments.

Lastly, while most folks expect haggling on price, remember, the best deal is one when both parties are satisified.

Best of luck and welcome to the hooby,
Pak

billison · Sep 25, 2006

thanks for all the advice guys, i think the main thing is i need to take the advice i give other people when they look for a car and that'd decide what you want and settle for nothing less, and i want a 67 coupe, i still need to know what the differnce between a pony interior and not

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