need info on classic mustangs

[stangkid88]

The pony interior was a really classy option for the 65-66 because it gave you this embroidery on the seats, a 5-gauge instrument cluster, different door panels with lights in them, and wood grain covering for the dash, glovebox, and console. Unfortunately, it changed for 67 by replacing the embroidery with a single metal piece and changing from wood grain to aluminum panels. I don't think it was as popular of an option in '67-68 as it was in the earlier cars, because I had a hard time finding pics. Try looking around eBay for both body styles and you should be able to see some good examples.

 

[CarFreakGT]

A couple more thoughts:

Another good idea if you want to see prices and body styles is to look on e-bay. You can pull up all of the 65-69 Mustangs and put the ones that interest you on a watch list. That way you can see some different styles, mods, etc. Check out what they end up going for at the end of the auction. But, beware--don't get all caught up as soon as you see one and go hog-wild bidding on one. And, I can't say enough--let the buyer beware if you do find one on e-bay! Since you are not familiar w/ classics, think of e-bay more as an information resource for you than a strong option for where you will actually buy a car (unless it's possible for you to see it in person).

Go look at a couple of local classics (Mustang or otherwise) that are for sale and drive them. My first 2 cars were a 71 and 69 Chevelle years ago. I have kicked myself for years for selling them, and kept getting a wild hair to buy another classic. About a year ago when I started considering actually BUYING another classic, I told my wife that I was going to take 3-6 months and decide if I was serious or not. Who knows, you might decide that the ride, options, etc. of a 40-year-old car just aren't for you.

Also, (Sorry. I get long-winded sometimes.) do as someone suggested and go to a car show. Pics give you an idea of what you're looking for, but seeing the cars in person puts them to scale for you. You can get a better feel for what features you like/dislike or want/don't want. Take your camera and snap some of your own photos.

Again, best of luck in your search. I hope in the not too distant future you look out in your driveway and feel like you got exactly what you wanted!

Bryan

 

[Sicarius428]

There are a bunch of differences structuraly and cosmetic. In the 67-68 series the engine bay is larger to accomodate up to a 428(from the factory). You would be hard pressed to get one to fit in a 65-66 correctly... even a 351 is tight. The 68 uses a slightly different front suspension than the 67. The 68 also has a reinforcement under the passenger side floor board which the previous years lacked. There are a bunch of minor differences. Just get one with a solid body. Trunk area, rear wheel wells, floor boards and especially the cowl are common places for rust not including the obvious frame rails and torque boxes. It is more expensive to do body work than drivetrain so keep that in mind. You are better off getting a good shell with no motor than a running rust bucket... a lot of which is covered up with 30+ years of paint and bondo. Since the 67 and 68 share the same exterior you might not want to limit yourself to the 67.
Kevin

 

[billison]

yeah i was doing some looking and i had a chance to get a 69 coupe for cheap but after looking around found that the front end just does not look as good. so i think the 67-68 is for me, once my fox's and the maverick are sold i'll start looking, i'm less concerned about the motor and trans, i'm gonna be looking for a clean body,something that won't fall apart, i'll wait to start picking out mods till i get the car and see what driveline i end up with, i think the big things to look for are rust free cowl , torque box, and trunk and rear fenders i think are going to be the main things i look at first

 

[billison]

as i look around i find alot of talk about new floor boards and i understand that, cut out old weld in new, but i hear alot about torque boxs needing fix , i'm lost on this, i thought torque box just sat under the rear end, but i dont' think this is what their talking about, so a little expaining on it would be awsome, thanks agian for all the info

 

[Pakrat]

You know, another good fact about buyer beware and buying sight unseen. I was lucky that because I travel 3 or 4 times a year that I could rearrange my flights to have connecting instead of direct and fly to locations on the companies dime for just the personal cost of a hotel room for leaving a day early but this is another way that jjbest can come in handy. Sorry don't mean to plug them but there are no penalties for early paying on their loans and one of their services is that before they approve your loan they send a pro out to inspect said car all over the country to make sure it is truly worth the value they are loaning on it. You cam pay the loan off on the first payment and have this service totally free in manner of speaking, not too shabby!

 

[CarFreakGT]

Billison, you may also want to consider contacting some of the aftermarket suppliers--National Parts Depot, Paddock, Mustangs Unlimited, etc.--via phone or email and order some catalogs. They're often free or just a few bucks. That way, when you see a car you might be interested in, you can see how much the parts to fix it may cost. Or, at least get a rough idea.

 

[billison]

yeah i have a mustang corral close i'm gonna visit tommorow and price some stuff

 

[1320stang]

You might post your location or add it to your profile.

Doing a search via ebay or trader online is pretty decent. I'm partial to the '67s myself, but that may have something to do with the fact that was the year I was born. In fact I'd love to find a '67 with the same birthday as my own.