Need info on shelby a-arm drop

SadbutTrue

Founding Member
May 1, 2002
2,390
4
49
Granada Hills, California
Anything I could get would be great, but a website with a really detailed step-by-step would be ideal. Do you need to buy any parts, or is it just a matter of unbolting the arms, drilling holes, and rebolting in a different location? Any reinforcing needed? Re-aligning? Does it impact what size wheel can be run? Is it necessary to go with 620 coils and the like when you do it (Everyone seems to, but I'm just looking to do the shelby drop at the moment... you see... I'm cheap...)? I've been told that every mustang should have it done and its up near the top in terms of cost-effective modifications.

Anything I could get would be appreciated, thanks
 
No special parts needed, you can simply remove the upper control arms, drill new holes 1" lower and 1/8" rearward and reinstall everything if youd like..no effect on wheel choice that Im aware of. An alignment is necessary afterwards.
 
SadbutTrue said:
Anything I could get would be great, but a website with a really detailed step-by-step would be ideal. Do you need to buy any parts, or is it just a matter of unbolting the arms, drilling holes, and rebolting in a different location? Any reinforcing needed? Re-aligning? Does it impact what size wheel can be run? Is it necessary to go with 620 coils and the like when you do it (Everyone seems to, but I'm just looking to do the shelby drop at the moment... you see... I'm cheap...)? I've been told that every mustang should have it done and its up near the top in terms of cost-effective modifications.

Anything I could get would be appreciated, thanks

The "620" coils are not necessary to the "drop". Just make sure that your current springs are not sagging (do a search for "ride height"). Of course, you're tearing everything apart anyway, so it's a time and effort saver if you take care of all the parts in that assembly at the same time.

Some people weld up the old holes; similarly, some of the tubular control arm kits (Global West?) come with a pair of steel templates which are used as "doublers" when bolting up the relocated control arms, thereby reinforcing the area. Most cars that are so modified probably have no reinforcement, nor is any really needed in most cases.

You will need to have the wheels aligned after you've completed the reassembly. A quick search here will probably yield the new alignment specs.
 
would it be a smart idea to take a plate of some sort, drill matching holes in it, and place it in front or behind the panel where the control arms bolt to, as reinforcement?

I think my springs are okay, they're only a few years old, they are stock replacements though. Is it (it being the shelby drop) as good as everyone says?

Also, will a shop be able to align it or will they need these specs? I did a quck search and didn't find anything, though I'll admit I only ran a few searches for it.
 
Deffinately use the template. If you dont trust a paper photo copy , you can purchase one made of plexiglass or metal from Global West, or TCP, or maybe Branda.
Keep in mind the 65-66 mustangs use shims behind the arms for alignment adjusting, I wouldnt put a plate on the inside, if you want to could put one on the inside, I dont think it would do you much good and might not be worth the hassle.
The stock spring rates are too light for perfromance driving, Id do a comprimise and go with 540 since you're in there allready.
Id highly reccomend the 'rollerized' bronze bushed spring perches that a few companies are selling, they make a world of a difference. check ebay or cobra automotive or ?

You will need it re-aligned, Id take it to an old school type alignment , not some high school kid working at a tire chain.
As far as specs , Id do more research on that.
There's tons of info and links at GT350clone.com
good luck