need opinions.....

MI95Cobra

MI95Cobra

New Member
Aug 20, 2006
451
1
0
Oklahoma City
#1
ok...as some of you know i took down my car a few months ago...i changed heads and put in an e303 cam....i put everything back together.....tried to start it...all it did was turn over a few times and backfire....almost everyone said i was 180 degrees out...so i turned it to tdc, w/ the #1 cylinder up and reset the dizzy....after doing this for about an hour, i had my father come over...well his theory was that i tightened my rocker arms to tight which would cause the valves not to open right....so we re-adjusted the rocker arms even took it back down to the timing chain to make sure i was timed right(i was)....i put it all back together and still the same problem....it turns over so far then backfires(his second thought is the cam is bent somehow, its a brand new cam)...we pulled to valve covers agvain and noticed no oil around the rocker arms...so automatically we assume the oil pump is out and the distributor...i talked to a mechanic who said with the milage i have (95,000) that its possile that i have slugg build up...he told me how to clean the slugg up with it running...the problem is that i can't get it running.....since i've only had my car since august i don't know the maintenace before i got the car...i do know it didn't have a thermastat on it when i tore it down...i replaced the spark plugs(motorcraft platinum), plug wires, ignition coil, and the cap and rotor....anyone have any ideas...should i replace the distributor??? go with a stock one or get an accel one for $30 more??? should i worry about replacing the oil pump??? please anyone...any ideas???
jimmy
 
#2
when i finished installing my head cam intake it was turning over and not starting also, just needed to turn the distributor till the timing was correct

have you checked to see if your injectors are firing, what about the spark plugs, check and see if they are firing?
 
#5
if the cam was bent, wouldn't it be really hard (if not impossible) to install it? there isn't that much play in the bearings ... :shrug:

about the oil pump ... have you tried hooking up a drill to the shaft to see if it pumps oil when you turn the shaft?
 
#6
about the oil pump ... have you tried hooking up a drill to the shaft to see if it pumps oil when you turn the shaft?[/QUOTE]


no i haven't...how do you do that exactly???...do i pull the distributor and put something there??? lets be sure i understand everything...the dizzy is the thing the rotor sits on right???? is there a way to test the distributor??? could the gear on the distributor be messed up???
 
#7
sage2k said:
when i finished installing my head cam intake it was turning over and not starting also, just needed to turn the distributor till the timing was correct

have you checked to see if your injectors are firing, what about the spark plugs, check and see if they are firing?
Click to expand...


how do u test the injectors??? and the spark plugs???
 
#8
did you do the work to replace the cam before?

there is a place in the bottom of the distributor that attaches to the oil pump shaft. if you take the distributor out (yes that is what the rotor sits on top of), there should be a shaft down in that hole. that shaft is what turns the oil pump. if there is no shaft, then that would be a problem. the shaft is supposed to be held in the oil pump so that taking out the distributor will not pull the shaft out of the pump, but sometimes can come out anyway. in that case, the shaft would be in the oil pan and you would have to take the pan off to fix it.

assuming the shaft is there, you can get an attachment for a drill so you can spin the pump to prime the system. you can probably get the attachment at a parts store or maybe somewhere like sears or walmart.
 
#9
I wouldn't worry about the oil problem yet. Get the car fired and running before you worry about it.

As far as setting initial timing goes. Start by removing the #1 plug wire and plug. Set it on a ground (just like you would normally do to check for spark) and with the key ON twist the distributor back and forth till you get a spark. As soon as it sparks tighten the distributor down and it will be close enough to make the car run.
 
#10
BlackVert said:
did you do the work to replace the cam before?

there is a place in the bottom of the distributor that attaches to the oil pump shaft. if you take the distributor out (yes that is what the rotor sits on top of), there should be a shaft down in that hole. that shaft is what turns the oil pump. if there is no shaft, then that would be a problem. the shaft is supposed to be held in the oil pump so that taking out the distributor will not pull the shaft out of the pump, but sometimes can come out anyway. in that case, the shaft would be in the oil pan and you would have to take the pan off to fix it.

assuming the shaft is there, you can get an attachment for a drill so you can spin the pump to prime the system. you can probably get the attachment at a parts store or maybe somewhere like sears or walmart.
Click to expand...

SLOWLY spin it COUNTERCLOCKWISE
 
#13
I've been following what Jimmy has gone through with this project.

His heads have been cut
and
He has no compression
so
It has been suggested the valves are being held off their seats

If the pump shaft was dropped in the pan, it would have no bearing
on the dizzy as far as starting.

True ... if the pump is not functioning ... I'd not wanna start it :nono:

First thing I'd do is prime the pump and ensure it is functioning :nice:

Almost forgot about that sludge thing

If you got it ... you would most likely see it under the VC's ;)

anyway ... shine a flash light down the hole and give it a good
look see at the pump for the shaft being in place and the gear
is not hosed up.

I still say ... your cut heads have caused the valves to be not closing

Grady
 
#14
well his statement was not that he didn't have oil pressure, but that he was not getting oil to the top through the rockers. I have seen many times where it just takes time to get the oil to the top. Start the car as normal and as always make sure you have oil pressure. The engine was running fine and had oil pressure before. It also is not a new engine that is dry. It still has plenty of oil resedue to survice the start up. Yes he should make sure that his oil pump drive shaft is still there, but I think the top end not getting oil is not his biggest problem.

The other question is are you sure you have plenty of pision to valve clearance and do you know for sure the cam is in right?
 
#15
kck6894 said:
well his statement was not that he didn't have oil pressure, but that he was not getting oil to the top through the rockers. I have seen many times where it just takes time to get the oil to the top. Start the car as normal and as always make sure you have oil pressure. The engine was running fine and had oil pressure before. It also is not a new engine that is dry. It still has plenty of oil resedue to survice the start up. Yes he should make sure that his oil pump drive shaft is still there, but I think the top end not getting oil is not his biggest problem.

The other question is are you sure you have plenty of pision to valve clearance and do you know for sure the cam is in right?
Click to expand...

yes...i can tear it qown again if need be....yes its an e303 cam...i had one on my 92 gt and i used stock heads...all i'm concerned with right now is starting it....i talked to another mechanic today and he also stated that the oil pump might be fine the car has to be running to pressurize the oil in the pump...but he told me that even even though i turn my car and it backfires i may not be getting spark from my distributor....so i should test that...i'll do it in a few days...doing heat and air...its gotten hot around here...and i'm wore out...
 
#16
Kind of a stupid question but.

You do have the correct firing order on the plug wires with #1 the furthest forward on the pass side?

You did match the dots up on the cam and crank sprocket? You might want to pull the valve cover and at what you think it TDC see if the rockers for that cyl. are both with the valves closed. rotate it to the #2 cyl. and check if its correct when its supposed to be fireing.

I have a good bit of shave on my gt40 heads and a mill on the deck of my block. I ended up needing a bit shorter PR and it still ran. I basicly ran into valve float very early.
 
#17
blksn955.o said:
Kind of a stupid question but.

You do have the correct firing order on the plug wires with #1 the furthest forward on the pass side?

You did match the dots up on the cam and crank sprocket? You might want to pull the valve cover and at what you think it TDC see if the rockers for that cyl. are both with the valves closed. rotate it to the #2 cyl. and check if its correct when its supposed to be fireing.

I have a good bit of shave on my gt40 heads and a mill on the deck of my block. I ended up needing a bit shorter PR and it still ran. I basicly ran into valve float very early.
Click to expand...


firing order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8....i took it down to the timing chain twice...just to be 100% positive...i rotated the crank around just to tighten the rocker arms down at their lowest point....
 
#18
ok...i have no spark....so i'm assuming my distributor is toast....also while turning it over to chack for spark..it backfired and the i had smoke on the passenger side of my engine bay...i couldn't tell where it came from...any ideas on that.???

jimmy
 
#19
i'd start by fitting a new set of plug leads and re-checking firing order and timing
as if it has back-fired you must be getting a spark on at least one cylinder.
the smoke you saw was probably exhaust gas travelling back out through
the air intake
 
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