Need recommendations for the best clutch and motor mounts

[AnthonyA1234]

If it ain't broke don't fix it?
I would make sure the pickup screen is clean, no sludge in the pan, I'd run it.
But it's your car.
If you do change the oil pump just stuff a stock one in there. JMO

I just figured since I’m paying the labor fees for a shop to do the work I might as well have them change everything possible while they’re in there. Ive been trying to find the stock pump but I can’t find it anywhere. From what I’ve read it looks like Melling is the company that makes the majority of the oil pumps on the market and they are oem quality

 

[1hot87gt]

I’m all about upgrading when they are torn into something. When the oil pan was down I had them do a high volume pump. When the clutch was being done I had a new flywheel installed. Wasn’t super light, as that can cause problems. Think maybe 50oz, steel I believe. Not sure, maybe Ford Motorsport? Doesn’t add power but helps the motor spin up quicker if that makes sense. The original one was in there, over 30 years old at the time it was done. It didn’t owe me anything.

 

[slow84lx]

"If it isn't broke, fix it until it is!" An old saying with a lot of truth in it. In my younger days I changed a lot of parts that were still in fine shape, "just because I was in there". I wasted a lot of money and caused a more than a few extra problems for myself in the process. For me, this is always magnified when a shop is doing the work.

Nowadays I'm firmly in the camp of leaving the parts that are functioning correctly alone. There are enough problems to deal with on an older car to keep us busy.

 

[1hot87gt]

I honestly don’t disagree with that philosophy. At least not any more. The quality of some of the reproduction parts I’ve seen lately as well as supply chain issues I understand where you are coming from. It’s just the stuff that I had changed were parts that were original to the car, which was 30+ years old at time work was done, and in an area which would have required major labor costs to get back to.

 

[AnthonyA1234]

I honestly don’t disagree with that philosophy. At least not any more. The quality of some of the reproduction parts I’ve seen lately as well as supply chain issues I understand where you are coming from. It’s just the stuff that I had changed were parts that were original to the car, which was 30+ years old at time work was done, and in an area which would have required major labor costs to get back to.

Yea my thought process is the same I think the benefit of changing the thirty year old pump with 120k miles outweighs the potential risk.

 

[Potomus Pete]

Can't loose by changing out the pump, but it is good practice to test parts before replacing. Unless you have no budget cares you never know what's next. Over time I have diagnosed more, because that's what the hobby should be about. Maybe put a picture of your car up so we can see what you got.

 

[AnthonyA1234]

Here’s some pics it’s a 92 gt with 113k miles. The car has a cobra manifold, edelbrock performer heads, x303 cam, and a full exhaust with long tube header, off road h pipe and borla mufflers (will be switching to flowmaster 40s very soon the borlas are too quiet at idle for me). I bought the car 3 months ago and it had been sitting in the previous owners driveway for 5 years and didn’t start. When I got the car did a full tune up and a new starter and she fired right up. I’ve pretty much freshened up the whole engine bay as you can see in the pics. Along with that I’ve also changed out the whole fuel system as well after the old rusty tank clogged everything. Also will be installing new Bilstein shocks and H&R springs this week. Also as you guys know the oil pan gasket and rear main seal is leaking so I’m having the shop take care of that as well as the other things I mentioned before in this thread. She’s definitely going to need a paint job the hood and roof is cooked and since it was a New York car it does have some rust but nothing too bad the only major structural rust is on the door jam so eventually I’m going to have someone cut that out and weld in some new metal. Here’s some pictures of when I got it and now.

 

[AnthonyA1234]

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[Potomus Pete]

Looks good. How does the air conditioning work

 

[AnthonyA1234]

Looks good. How does the air conditioning work

It doesn’t unfortunately haha. The compressor works it just has a Freon leak. I filled it one day and heard hissing from around the accumulator later on. After that it stopped blowing cold. Next time I go into the auto parts store I’m gonna pick up some Freon with uv dye so I can verify where the leak is. No ac in Florida right now sucks!

 

[deathb4dismount]

Love that the stock air box is back in there. I would 100% change the oil pump and oil pump shaft as the shaft is an item that will eventually fail, probably when you have the motor spun to 6k rpms. Ram clutches have a good reputation so I would go with your installers recommendation. Get the energy suspension mounts, and stick with a rubber trans mount, that will keep some of the NVH down.

 

[AnthonyA1234]

Thanks! Sounds good yea I went ahead and ordered the ford performance hardened driveshaft yesterday as I was reading some people had fitment issues with the arp ones. Would you say it’s worth it to put a new flywheel? Or should I just have the one in it right now resurfaced if it even needs to be.

 

[deathb4dismount]

Thanks! Sounds good yea I went ahead and ordered the ford performance hardened driveshaft yesterday as I was reading some people had fitment issues with the arp ones. Would you say it’s worth it to put a new flywheel? Or should I just have the one in it right now resurfaced if it even needs to be.

I should be resurfaced with the new clutch, and as long as it's in good shape I'd stick with that. The stock cast iron flywheel is good for a mild street car.

 

[Gs1987GT]

Stock car, I'd go with the AutoZone lifetime warranty clutch kit. I did on mine and it works excellent.

I have the black energy suspension engine and transmission mounts. They are also good and quality. No issues, no noticeable vibrations.

I replaced my flywheel with a new one from rock auto, great price, no issues.

I also replaced the release fork and ball stud for that and installed a frpp hardened input shaft bearing retainer.

I did not use the bearings that came in the AutoZone kit, I brought Ford parts release and pilot bearings and used those.

All is well several miles later. This car has the best feeling and working clutch of any foxbody I've ever owned. Good luck.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

If it ain't broke don't fix it?
I would make sure the pickup screen is clean, no sludge in the pan, I'd run it.
But it's your car.
If you do change the oil pump just stuff a stock one in there. JMO

The stock pump shafts tend to twist like a Twizzler and break, even with a stock pump. If I’m in the engine that close, an ARP shaft is going in rather than stranding me on the highway again.

 

[foxbodybill89]

How many miles on the engine? When I did my oil pan gasket I put a new pump in just because I was in there and it's a huge job, even though my stock pump was working good I had almost 100k miles. I did the Melling Select 10687, it's standard volume and pressure just a heavier duty design. It also comes with a hardened pump shaft. Another vote for the Energy Suspension engine/trans mounts and Fel-Pro one piece pan gasket.

 

[General karthief]

Yeah, I forgot about the oil pump shaft being an issue, I've never had a problem and only had one come through the shop that was broken but it's a well known problem.

 

[TOOLOW91]

I’d do the arp shaft for sure

I’ve never had a problem with center force dual friction clutches - in a 225 hp all the way up to 600hp

I just installed a CF clutch in a hci gt40 deal last week with the ptfe rear main.