Need some advice on some issues!!

nickg42oz

Founding Member
Dec 16, 2000
358
0
16
New Orleans, LA
I have a birthday comming up and I want to get some typ of mod. I'm looking for somthing that wont take a while to do. I was only thinking the distributer because thats mainly the only stock thing and I am not to sure about it working properly at higher rpms. The motor will some times miss at higher rpms (it did this with the last shortblock to) I was just thinking that it could be the distributer. But I don;t know I could just be retarted. Maybe I should just go to the dyno for my birthday.

Also, when the car is warm the only way to start it is to hold the gas peddle all the way down when cranking. If I dont it floods and wont start. The timeing is at 18 and the fuel pressure is at about 38lb. The car smell like its running rich and the plugs show that. Any ideas on anything.
 
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nickg42oz said:
Ture with the tweecer or get the code reader from walmart? No chekc engine light or anything????
with the injectors and other stuff you have done (and subsequent issues), I would opt for a handheld. you can pull codes with a paperclip - no need even for a code reader. the KAM can store codes w/o illuminating the CEL - always worth retrieving them. Jrichker has a post for getting them with a jumper.

I am not nearly as up on the tuning stuff as some, but I think a handheld would be wise. just my thoughts. good luck.
 
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
 
well I can't try and pull codes untill maybe this weekend. So any thoughts to what it might be causing the richness, or the starting problem.(not that bad of a problem because it actualls starts just need to hold the gas down) Also could it be the distributor causing the missing at higher RPM's?
 
Oh also that spout that you pull out of the distributor, I lost a while ago :doh: but in its place I put a home made jumper that just plugs right in. Its basicly a pice of wire that goes in both holes. Is there a problem with this? On the old motor it did nothing to hurt my times.
 
Alright I've been thinking and reading and I dont think Im going to get the Tweecer untill I can get the R/T. So maybe for my birthday I'll just get the distributor and later get the tweecer. For now I might go to Auto Zone and get the code reader just to see what it tells me. Any other suggestions welcome.
 
Get this one instead of one that just has a flashing LED or beeper, much nicer unit for just a few $ more...

3145_3X.jpg



See see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 for moreinfo Cost is $33
 
and your homemade SPOUT jumper should be alright. next time at the Junkyard, you can grab another one (Half the Fords made use one).

good luck.