Need some cam installation edumacation

95BlueStallion

My assy trans to myself
15 Year Member
Feb 22, 2007
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Cedar Rapids, Iowa
I have my car all torn down, and the old cam sitting on the bench as we speak. So far, its gone really well. I have attached my cam spec sheet, and need advice on how to install it. I guess being the dummy I am, I planned on installing it straight up with the #1 cylinder being at TDC. The old timing set was lined up upon cam removal. I noticed the cam sheet says its a StreetBeast33B HR11 +3*... Does that indicate I need to advance it 3*? What about the Intake Centerline being 108*, do I need to degree this thing? Im clueless when it comes to this, as this is my first cam installation. If anyone could give a little guidence, I would greatly appreciate it.

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Congrats on the FTI cam. I did not install my FTI cam nor can I tell you exactly what some of the numbers on the cam card means but what I can tell you is that cam is installed straight up
 
Thanks man. I didnt know if that 3* advance was already built into the cam lobes, or how that works. The intake centerline thing just confused me, cause right under all the numbers it mentions that "the assymetrical design may not allow for accurate reading using the intake centerline method..." This is why I am not an engineer, I just like putting the pieces together. :)
 
Well my old cam card doesn't have anything after the part number. I would degree it just to be sure. Or send Ed an email asking him. :)

Definitely not a bad idea to email Ed. Let me ask another question about cam end play. When I bolt on the thrust plate/retaining plate, the cam has all sorts of room behind it. When I bolt up the sprocket, it pulls the cam forward and relatively tight against the thrust plate. What exactly am I measuring with the feeler guages? I cant get anything behind the cam sprocket, so Im a bit confused. The sprocket doesnt really move at all (forward and backward), so Im nervous that I need to adjust it somehow. It does spin with relative ease. Someone educate me please.

This is what the directions with the cam say:

If the new camshaft being installed is a hydraulic or solid flat tappet cam, this step is not necessary. Flat tappet cams have taper ground into their lobes, which pushes the cam into the proper position and holds it there while the engine is running. Checking endplay is also unnecessary in engines equipped with cam retaining plates, whether the cam used is a flat tappet or roller.

This is what the timing chain instructions say:

End-play should be checked before final assembly of the engine. Install the camshaft, the thrust plate in its normal position, and the cam sprocket. Tighten the cam sprocket to specified torque rating. Now, use the feeler guages to check the clearance between thrust plate and the front cam-bearing-jornal thrust face. The maximum thickness feeler gauge represents camshaft end play. End play should be 0.001-0.007 in.



Im confused. Im under the impression that I dont need to worry about end play since our engine is equipped with a cam retaining plate...
 
I set-up my cam from Ed dot to dot to start and all the specs came in. I even went few degree's either way and the numbers were off just to make sure I had it right. If your not into it then it would be worthwhile to bring the shortblock to someone and have them verify. Not doing this step could be trouble as your verifying not only the cam but your valvetrain geometry.


Using a dial indicator is much easier to check endplay...you put the cam gear on, tq it up with no chain on and push in ... pull out and to read the endplay. I had to grind my thrust plate as I didn't have enuf play so you really want to check it.

When your doing you own build you gotta be checking all those kinda details. you can buy the tools cheaper to check that cam than the money spent for someone to verify you build..plus your learning along the way. you got to much money into it not to check things out.
 
This degree kit from Summit is all you need....has the base & indicator, piston stop for 99 clams. Youll need a correct crank bushing to mount the wheel... if the wheel isn't centered on the crank youll get bogus readings. With the Comp Cam instructions with your cam youll be fine as those are easy to understand...may take a few times to figure it out.
I would make sure you have the PR lenght right before you start degreeing. Do you have that done??

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No, I havnt installed the lifters to check for pushrod length yet. Didnt want to move forward until I figured out the end play situation. I still dont understand the end play on our engines, it just isnt clicking for me. I can draw the cam out toward the front of the engine another 1/4 inch before the sprocket bolt would bottom out. That would mean clearancing the entire thrust plate off before it would have any end play...

I may have to take pictures to explain what I mean, and that isnt going to happen until tomorrow.
 
Endplay is the ability of the camshaft to move back & forth in the block. The minimum is .001", The maximum is .007" It mostly becomes an issue when you get into countersinking bolts on some cam/timing chains installs. Normally our engines dont have a problem with it. Always degree your cams. The above kit will work fine, and double check your at TDC before you do anything.
 
Endplay is the ability of the camshaft to move back & forth in the block. The minimum is .001", The maximum is .007" It mostly becomes an issue when you get into countersinking bolts on some cam/timing chains installs. Normally our engines dont have a problem with it. Always degree your cams. The above kit will work fine, and double check your at TDC before you do anything.

Thanks man. I get what cam end play is, just dont know how I can change mine. I think its fine, and I cant seem to explain what Im talking about. Im going to move on from it and get this puppy together so I can degree it.