Need Some Help!!!! Clutch?

94cobraslow · Dec 14, 2015

ok let start out my head hurt warping around this!!!!
ok my clutch went bad because of a cable and then destroyed the throw out bearing and killed the clutch!!!

replace the clutch and now it vibrating start around 2500-3000 always to redline. what could it be?
parts replaced where and with rear main seal, ford racing bullet steel 50oz flywheel, spec stage 3 clutch kit, bearing retrainer, steeda clutch cable kit, tubed trans cross-member, polyurethane trans-mount!
i have read and i think i f***ed up by not supporting the motor and broke the motor mount some how!!.what do yall think?

B.erazo712 · Dec 14, 2015

You have a stage 3 clutch. You will always have chatter when driving on the street, is this car bone stock with a couple of mods?

94cobraslow · Dec 14, 2015

stock motor cammed and alot of bolt ons and nitrous !! it vibrate the hole car dosent matter if the clutch is in, driving it, rev it ones it hit 2500-3000rpm and up it vibrates !! didnt do it before the clutch and that was a king cobra clutch.

B.erazo712 · Dec 14, 2015

I can tell you right now, unless you are running 500~ hp I wouldn't have got a stage 3 clutch on a street car. If this didn't happen before you changed the clutch I can only assume it has something to do with that. Maybe you didn't torque a bolt to specs or a bolt is too tight. Try retightening the transmission crossmember, driveshaft, bell housing, etc. If you think it's the motor mounts, take a look and see if the rubber is cracked, hard and dry. Before you order anything I'd try the bolts.

Driveshaft - 80ft/lbs
Transmission to bell housing - 40ft/lbs
Clutch -20~ ft/lbs
Flywheel - 80ft/lbs
Bell housing to block - 45ft/lbs

94cobraslow · Dec 14, 2015

well everything was torq to those spec!!!!! motor mount wise when i was put the trans cross member in jack slipped and trans tilted back/down plus i never support the engine when the trans was out and ppl say have to, it can damage mounts was thinking motor mount or (maybe bad flywheel from lmr)!!

94cobraslow · Dec 14, 2015

If the clutch cable is out of adjustment can that cause a vibration?

90lxcoupe · Dec 15, 2015

could be the motor mounts, id replace those. Could also be the DS, try rotating it 90° and see if the vibration goes away.

That spec stage 3 is way too much clutch also, if you powershift the car, it will likely kill the trans quick. A stage 1 would have been a better choice for that combo.

94cobraslow · Dec 15, 2015

Well last night I drove the car to the store! Felt the clutch padel vibrating and also I noticed that there a 1/4 to1/2inch play on the padel. I took that play way with my foot and it seems the vibration got better? Could clutch adjustment cause this 2500rpm to redline vibration?

94cobraslow · Dec 15, 2015

90lxcoupe said:
could be the motor mounts, id replace those. Could also be the DS, try rotating it 90° and see if the vibration goes away.

That spec stage 3 is way too much clutch also, if you powershift the car, it will likely kill the trans quick. A stage 1 would have been a better choice for that combo.

By the way the spec stang 3 pucked clutch is really not bad to drive in the street! Believe or not it smooth

94cobraslow · Dec 23, 2015

i havent got anywhere on this issue. when i rev the car up in neutral there a little vibration, when i rev the car with the clutch in there still a little vibration, i think when u rev up with the clutch in it should be in gear if im not mistaking to figure that one out? but when it driving down the road the vibration alot worse. i got me some new dana spicier u joint im going to install next week and go have the driveshaft balanced and motor mount but havent had the time to install yet. and the car had no vibration before the clutch swap. i have no idea where to go with this issue?

Noobz347 · Dec 23, 2015

Have you re-clocked the drive shaft?

That needs to be done. Your description points to a vibe from the drive shaft or even a u-joint that you don't yet realize is bad.

Additionally, which firewall adjuster did you go with?

94cobraslow · Dec 23, 2015

Drive shaft was re clocked didnt not change anything and cable wise was the steeda cable kit from lmr

Noobz347 · Dec 23, 2015

Ok... Forgive me if I type things that you already know:

The pressure plate and throw out bearing on Fox cars are always in contact. If you have a squeaking or scraping noise from your clutch, it's likely that there's too much play and the FW adjuster need to be tightened.

This however, does not solve your vibration problem. You said stock motor so 50 oz is the correct flywheel. Regardless, any vibration caused by anything within the bell housing, is going to cause a vibration when sitting still. I'm not sure if you ever said if you got the vibe while moving or not moving.

If it's only when moving, then you probably need to replace your u-joints. If you get the vibration while sitting still well... It's time to pull everything apart again and check/double check that all is installed and properly torqued.

94cobraslow · Dec 23, 2015

Ok vibration wise if ur moving u feel it in the seat\maybe back start at 2500-2800 and up this is when I feel the most, and every gear. Now if u rev up neutral or clutch in there is a small vibration when it hit around 2500-2800 and up. Could be over think it! As fsr as clutch install everything was done by the book with torq wrencha and thread lock, as far clutch cable adj its adj where the padel start to grab at 3 inch off the floor where ppl say it should be

Noobz347 · Dec 24, 2015

I dunno man, it's the internet so I'm interpreting as best I can...

It sounds to me like you are less certain about standing still vibration. If that is true, I'm still calling U-joints.

If you're positive that the vibe still exists at stand still, then start looking at all the spinning parts, including the harmonic balancer, to see if it's in good health. The flywheel can only go on one way, the clutch and plate don't matter, double check all your transmission brackets and bolts. Make sure that there is no gap anywhere around the bellhousing... ALL THE WAY AROUND. If the starter engages, disengages well, then it's not a likely factor....

Just going through things in my mind to see if anything pops up. Others, feel free to join in.

Also... What soft parts have you replaced? I mean... did you ditch the stock rubber trans cross member mount for a poly mount or solid mount or anything?

A5literMan · Dec 24, 2015

I'm in agreement. Driveshaft,mounts,balancer would be my first thoughts. Make sure those are good first. Not the first time I've seen a u joint/driveshaft vibration have someone chasing their tails. Or balancer..or mounts lol.

94cobraslow · Dec 24, 2015

It has I tubed trans cross member and ploy trans mount now engine mount well be ploy as soon as I have time

94cobraslow · Dec 24, 2015

I replaced the drive shaft 4 mounth ago with a ford racing drive shaft because I had a u joint lock up

Noobz347 · Dec 24, 2015

May be time to replace it again. I've had bad u-joints out of the box even.

Sometimes, you can get under the car, shake-rattle-and-roll on the drive shaft and get a bad joint to make a noise. All it takes is a squeak or a little bit of play in the joint to tell you that it's bad.

89oem · Dec 24, 2015

Have you looked at the Balancer? Easy to see and no disassembly required...

Need Some Help!!!! Clutch?

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