i have a 1992 convertible, 2.3, and im having all kinds of problems with it right now. its idling very low and sometimes stalling out, engine shakes, sounds terrible, when i hold the brake to shift into drive, park, etc. ive been going thru alot of gas, barely gettin 10-12 miles per gallon. i have changed the o2 sensor, spark plugs, plug wires, mass airflow sensor, pcv valve, fuel filter, egr valve and the sensor that attaches to it, among other things, thats just all i can remember at the moment. its still runnin terrible, i can barely get to 55 mph and to get to that takes forever. ive had the transmission checked, i just had a new one put on less than 4 yrs ago and everything checks out. i had all new exhaust pipes, muffler, everything except the catalytic converter, put on less than 6 months ago. my fuel pressure is reading at 32, not sure exactly what its supposed to be, but u can hear the fuel pump kick on when the car is started, just like it normally does. its almost like it isnt getting the fuel it needs to go. does anyone have any ideas what this might be?
need some help please
- Thread starter dstrbdbyu
- Start date
If you can, run the codes. A Chilton or Haynes manual has instructions (they can be found online too at different places). You've replaced and checked most everything on the car. The only things I don't see that you did are the throttle position sensor and the MAP-BARO sensor. Both of those sensors play a vital role in fuel control and engine operation.
Your MAP-BARO sensor works in conjunction with the rest of the sensors to control timing, fuel, and other engine functions. At engine startup and wide open throttle, the sensor reads barometric pressure. Under all other operation modes, it reads manifold air pressure. A failed MAP-BARO sensor can cause a multitude of problems anywhere from a no-start to poor idle, misfires, flooding, surging, and stalling. If you did get a code for it, it wouldn't hurt to replace it. Ignition modules, when they fail, often cause simply a no-start, stall, or misfire. Easy way to check for accurate spark is with an inductive timing light. Point it at the timing marks on the cover and watch for smooth advance and consistent flashing of the light. Of couse, if your MAP-BARO sensor is failing/dead your advance will be waaay off (if it advances at all).
gunmetal5.0
New Member
After close examination of your post I believe i've found the two major contributing problems. 1.) The 2.3 liter engine. 2.) The automatic transmission.
yea well, ive had the car since i was 17, i dont plan on getting rid of it or modifying it....even if it doesnt run, i love it
not so far, no....we got the baro sensor this morning, put it on, cleared the codes.....same thing, its idling very rough, almost tries to die when u shift to reverse, drive, whatever. attempting to try the throttle position sensor and possibly an ignition control module if that doesnt work. otherwise, im back where i started and have a bunch of new parts i probly didnt need lol
I'd maybe try and find a junkyard car similar to yours and see if you can scrounge a computer out of it and just try it for fun. Also, have you done a compression check on the cylinders? Could have a leaking head gasket. Once you do get it running again, with all the work you've done to it, it should run just like new!
the throttle position sensor was bad but since its raining and i dont have a garage i wont know if it helps probly til tomorrow....i hope so. i might just try that, it is an old car and other than havin the transmission replaced a few years ago ive never really done anything but the regular maintenance to it....its been a great car! i figure for something to go wrong at 171k miles on the engine, its still cheaper than car payments!
I hope the TPS fixes your prob, I would look into a new catalytic conv if it doesnt. if it is clogged then you will exp the same probs you are having now.
Have you cleaned your IAC out and reset your idle? last year I had a failed MAF and a vacuum leak going to the EGR that caused similar probs. if the car slowed down it would choke and die. even after I fixed the problems the car would not run correctly until I unplugged the IAC and reset the base idle. ran like a champ after that.
Have you cleaned your IAC out and reset your idle? last year I had a failed MAF and a vacuum leak going to the EGR that caused similar probs. if the car slowed down it would choke and die. even after I fixed the problems the car would not run correctly until I unplugged the IAC and reset the base idle. ran like a champ after that.
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