need some info, starting to think about a built block.

VT just(well not JUST, but maybe 8 months ago) made 1300+ HP with an aluminum block, so they are plenty tough. Ill be getting a BB324 from VT (or MPH if they offer it) eventually. But I am more than happy with how the car runs now, so ill probably wait till I get about 100K on the car then buy the 2.2 KB/324 SB/custom MPH cams/maybe 2.5 heads at the same time.
 
hotmustang331 said:
VT just(well not JUST, but maybe 8 months ago) made 1300+ HP with an aluminum block, so they are plenty tough. Ill be getting a BB324 from VT (or MPH if they offer it) eventually. But I am more than happy with how the car runs now, so ill probably wait till I get about 100K on the car then buy the 2.2 KB/324 SB/custom MPH cams/maybe 2.5 heads at the same time.
damn did you win the lottery :D
 
yea thats some serious modding man. i like the fact that vt can build me an aluminum block. i think that is who i will be going with. im going mph for the novi set up. i think the 2.2 kb is a little much doe for me, and the 1.7 is too small. :D
 
so is this coolent passage thing the only difference between the gt block, and the aluminum cobra? i think im really going to get the cobra block if this is the only alteration that has to be made.

like jim said, i will just ask mph or vt to drill it out for me and have it ready to put right in.

is there anything im missing on the aluminum block, any other complications?
thanks guys, i really dont want to get myself into somthing that i cant handle.
that is why im not going to get the block bored or stroked. trying get the car pretty fast, while keeping it pretty basic. jims ste up is great, but that thing is a race car:D
 
ADRENLN said:
guys what do you know about having to change the front timing cover on this swap? i hear i have to change that also, to a 94-95 thunderbird?

why the t bird?
I think MPH changed mine from a 2000 GT to a 1999 GT. Why are you worring about all this? Your engine builder will take care of these details unless you plan to build the engine yourself.
 
sorry jim, i just wanted to know what im getting into. somtimes you order from a company, and they just give you what you ask for, or dont know what the heck you really need. i just dont want to recieve a cobra built aluminum block and no be able to have my shop drop it right in the car. i like to make it rale easy for the installing shop.

also i keep finding out more things that have to be changed like the cobra oil pump, main studs and bearings, and the timing cove. your shop took care of all of that, so all you did was bolt it up? where did you order from again...that is where ill have to get mine.:nice:
 
Modular Powerhouse does all my work. They sub out the shortblock prep and assembly to their machine shop. If you plan to order a shortblock from them, they can provide you with everything else you will need.
 
JTAM963 said:
I was thinking of getting just the forged kit.. no block and take out the block and install the new forged rods/pistons and bearings and crankshaft... would that be just as good as getting a built shortblock??

Just make sure you add everything up before trying this yourself. I was looking into doing the same thing, or having a local shop put it together for me, but haven't been able to get very good quotes. Here is what I have come up with so far:

Forged rotating assembly = $1500 - $1700
Balancing = $200
Oil pump = $300
ARP Studs = $175-200 upgrade
Dishing pistons if needed = $200
Machine work = $400
Labor = 10 hrs x $75/hr = $750
Total = $3525 - 3750
Now add your gaskets and whatever else I am forgetting and MPH, MMR, or VT are all cheaper. Plus, you get a brand new block from them (not that you'd need it... but...).

On the flip side, you might not need:

Forged Crank = About $500 savings
ARP studs = $175
Dishing pistons = $200
Do some labor yourself ???

So you'd save $875 or so.

http://www.modularmustangracing.com/ Has a forged iron block for $2799 assembled. Add the price of a new oil pump here.