need traction

Bolt on 5.0

Founding Member
Jun 26, 2002
302
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17
Suffolk, NY
Guys help me out with my tarction issue. I have a 91 gt, lowered about 1.5 - 2 in. in rear with mustang tuning springs. kyb shocks in rear, stocks up front. Bbk lower control arms stock uppers. The tires are nitto extreme performance. The car has quad shocks in it still, I am not getting hop but just very poor traction. I have 410s in the car. I have to do something have tried lowering the pressures down to likw 18 lbs.

Should I get adjustable rear control arms, should I buy aftermarket uppers. Let me know, this car could really move if I could get it to hook up.

When I launch if I let off and then get back into it somtimes itll hook and tis things def throws me back in the seat. Thanks
 
i would think that your shocks, struts, springs are too stiff and this is causing your traction problems. if you want to hook up you need drag springs and struts.
 
Agree with all above things. Those Nitto's aren't the drag radials are they? If they aren't I hope you aren't burning the crap out of them before a race. Regular tires won't stick when done that way.
 
Mustang5L5 said:
Yup, suspension is stiff so it's hurting traction.

You need to decide if you'd rather turn, or go straight.


I second that I am in the process of losing the bbk lowering springs, and going with the drag launch kit. I have terrible traction issues with the supercharger, as of now I just have the rear springs installed and they definatly squat in the rear. I will need a spring compressor to install the fronts.
 
Ok guys I def am going for the straight but do not want the car to sit uneven. Isnt that thew case withthe drag lanch springs? I also posted a talk question for pic if anyone has a picture they would like to post. Thanks. Also the tires are not drag radials, and I do not roast them up like I used to with my old drag radials but I read that these tires are supposed to have good traction.
 
Probably Drag Radials would be the best single step.

I have stock 1980 rubber bushings in all the control arms, with home welder boxed arms, old Lakewood traction bars, a rear sway bar, and an air bag in the right rear.

The bars help the most, and the Drag Radials do the rest. Got to 1.89 sixty foots.

Also would recommend removing the front sway bar at the track.
 
My sixty foot's run 1.7's and are very consistant. This is with a AOD launching on nitrous. I have mickey drag radials, lakewood traction action lowers and BBK uppers. Stock springs in the rear and lowering in the front. The tires don't spin the slightest amount.

A friend of mine cuts 1.80 60 ft times on a totally stock suspension car with mickey drag radials...
 
The traction actions will lower the car if you use the drop bracket that lowers the rear mounting point about 1 or 2 inches under the stock point under the shock. My drag radials are 275 / 50/ 15's Way too big, rubs everything.
 
thehueypilot said:
Adjustable lowers & uppers with -2 degree pinion angle, rear antiroll bar, adjustable shocks front and rear with soft springs up front (4 cyl springs) with MT drag radials and sub frame connectors = 1.47 60 ft.

This sounds like a plan to me. I'm putting in my double adjustable uppers right now and I am looking for a anti-roll bar. A quick check of my pinion angle prior to disassembly of the rear suspension showed a +2 pinion angle. Wheel hop is extreme. What are you using for shocks? Shocks are a very important part of traction especially on the rear and most people just slap any old thing on their car.
 
Maryland Stang said:
This sounds like a plan to me. I'm putting in my double adjustable uppers right now and I am looking for a anti-roll bar. A quick check of my pinion angle prior to disassembly of the rear suspension showed a +2 pinion angle. Wheel hop is extreme. What are you using for shocks? Shocks are a very important part of traction especially on the rear and most people just slap any old thing on their car.

I'm using Strange Engineering 10 way adjustables in the front ( softest setting) and Rancho 5 way adjustables in the rear (most firm setting). No reason for using the Rancho's in the back except they were left over from my 68 so I used them. I will use the Stange Engineering 10 way adjustables in the rear when the others wear out.