• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Needs some tips. Header gasket replacement.

  • Thread starter Thread starter poneypower89
  • Start date Start date Mar 16, 2007

poneypower89

Now everyone in the world will know I wanna bang t
Dec 6, 2004
0
3
28
Indianapolis, Indiana
Mar 16, 2007
#1
  • Mar 16, 2007
  • #1
Hey guys,

First off: If anyone tells you NOT to use the header gaskets that come with the BBK kits... listen to them. They do not last. Ok?

So here I am pulling the header off the driver side of the car to replace my crap gaskets with fel-pros.

First thing, the header will come about 1-1/2 inches away from the head. Is there a way, WITHOUT taking the header off the h-pipe, to gain more room? Maybe by sticking a jack under the h-pipe or something? Hopefully someone has done this before and knows the "trick".

Second thing, old gasket is completely caked on. Any trick to that? What works best with limited room?

Thanks all for the help.
 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
4
0
Miami, Ok
Mar 16, 2007
#2
  • Mar 16, 2007
  • #2
i dealt with NUMEROUS header gasket leaks.

do it once and do it right. take the time, take the header complelety out of the car, and take a wire wheel and really CLEAN the head so its spotless...
once the new gasket hits this perfect surface it will seal good.

i replaced like 3 set of gaskets just kept putting them on with minimal effort to clean the old gasket off and it leaked right on start up. since i took the time to clean it good its leak free!
 
J

jrod92

Member
Jun 17, 2004
66
0
7
Mar 16, 2007
#3
  • Mar 16, 2007
  • #3
Ive been through many gaskets myself, buy yourself some copper gaskets. they may be a little more $$ but they will save you alot of trouble in the end.
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,811
234
Dublin GA
Mar 16, 2007
#4
  • Mar 16, 2007
  • #4
Another vote for cleaning everything spotless. Gaskets need clean bare metal to seal against, no matter what kind of gaskets you use.

Spend $24 and get a big container of anti seize from NAPA. Use it liberally on every nut, bolt and stud on the exhaust system that you remove to do the job. Next time they will spin off and not seize up and round off.
 

poneypower89

Now everyone in the world will know I wanna bang t
Dec 6, 2004
0
3
28
Indianapolis, Indiana
Mar 16, 2007
#5
  • Mar 16, 2007
  • #5
psssh... i did not want to take the entire header off.. but it looks like i might have to. I couldnt even get the header back in "place" just now.

Oh wells.. guess ill just have to disconnect the h-pipe now.

Anything Im gonna need for that?
 

kpack5982

Yeah, it was pretty stiff, but eventually a buddy
Jul 13, 2005
325
1
19
Granger, IA
Mar 16, 2007
#6
  • Mar 16, 2007
  • #6
From my experience once I got the h pipe adjusted right after tightening down the headers the first time every time I take my headers off they come out very easy and without having to move the h pipe. Sure you have to get under the car and take off the nuts that attach the headers to h pipe, but at least you don't have to move the h pipe itself. And as far as the bronze gaskets, I don't like them. Too many leaks to count. For some reason my experience with the felpros have been good, they seem to crush down just right. I got some copper rtv like thumper told me and used that and low and behold, no header leaks. Maybe that is another good idea?
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,811
234
Dublin GA
Mar 16, 2007
#7
  • Mar 16, 2007
  • #7
poneypower89 said:
psssh... i did not want to take the entire header off.. but it looks like i might have to. I couldnt even get the header back in "place" just now.

Oh wells.. guess ill just have to disconnect the h-pipe now.

Anything Im gonna need for that?
Click to expand...

PB Blaster or WD40 penetrant fluid to soak the H pipe to header studs.
3/8" drive 5/8" 6 point deep socket or Snap On semi-deep socket
3/8" drive 12" extension
Good 3/8" drive long handle ratchet or impact wrench
Jack and jackstands
Lots of patience
 

montegoman351

Member
Jan 12, 2007
169
1
18
Mar 16, 2007
#8
  • Mar 16, 2007
  • #8
Pb Blaster will be your friend through this.
Because, if you don't use it

I'd suggest soaking them at least an hour before you do it, soak the bolts and such, go grap a "refreshment" and then try them.
I have a Cleveland I recently rebuilt, I got the engine out, put it on the stand, rotated it so the exh. ports were up, soaked every bolt down in the manifolds and then ate dinner. I came back a half hour later and every single bolt came right out. Also, did I mention it's a factory Cleve in a '73 that was originally from Iowa, an untouched engine, HA. Rust=no match for PB, I use it on a nearly daily basis at work too.
 

Foxfan88

My Grandpa has great wood.
Sep 13, 2004
2,487
4
0
Miami, Ok
Mar 16, 2007
#9
  • Mar 16, 2007
  • #9
poneypower89 said:
psssh... i did not want to take the entire header off.. but it looks like i might have to. I couldnt even get the header back in "place" just now.

Oh wells.. guess ill just have to disconnect the h-pipe now.

Anything Im gonna need for that?
Click to expand...

you dont have to disconnect the Hpipe to take the header out, just unbolt the headers from the Hpipe... maybe i misunderstood u.

i know it feels like a PITA to take them off but if u dont they will leak again and it will end up being more of a PITA trying to fix it later.
 

blackened88lx

Active Member
Aug 9, 2006
0
4
28
Connecticut
Mar 16, 2007
#10
  • Mar 16, 2007
  • #10
Yep, those gaskets are junk. I replaced one on my car recently and it was CAKED like you said. I pulled the header out completely and wire wheeled everything to get it clean. I tried gasket/paint remover, razor blades, scrapers, nothing would get it off the head other than a powered wire wheel. You definitely want it spotless if any gasket is going to seal. I just used a $5 paper gasket because I was planning on pulling the heads off soon and didn't want to wait for copper gaskets to come in. Definitely go with copper gaskets though.
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
15 Year Member
Nov 11, 2003
6,945
1,597
223
Northern KY
Mar 16, 2007
#11
  • Mar 16, 2007
  • #11
I would recommend copper gaskets, and take a header bolt to a hardware store and match it up with an Allen head style bolt. This will allow you to crank the bolt down with enough force, without the risk of slipping a socket off. Also as mentioned, make sure you scrape the head CLEAN before installing new gaskets.

Then, if you don't already know the "drop in" method.....this can only be done with some gaskets that have "hooked" bolt holes on the ends of the gasket so you put the two end bolts on, which will hold the header in place, and then you drop the gasket in, and lightly snug the bolts and then you should be lined up good to put the other bolts in.
 

stang&2Birds

Founding Member
May 4, 2000
2,091
5
58
New England. :-) CT/MA
Mar 17, 2007
#12
  • Mar 17, 2007
  • #12
poneypower89 said:
First off: If anyone tells you NOT to use the header gaskets that come with the BBK kits... listen to them. They do not last. Ok?
Click to expand...
Tell me about it. BBK sells good, high quality stuff. But, then they put some CHEAP *SS WORTHLESS POS CR*P gaskets in with their headers. WTF! I think the person responsible for choosing those gaskets to be included with the headers should have those POS gaskets shoved so far up their *** they cough them up!!!

Also, I had the ball on the end of the BBK header (that connects to the h-pipe) fold in on itself. My FRPP headers NEVER did that. And, I've had the headers, x-pipe off many times in my car. So, I went back to my FRPP headers when I also HAD to replace the POS header gaskets that I got with my new BBK headers.

I got the BBK headers (94/95) so I could try an EGR setup like the 94/95 Stangs. That way, I wouldn't have the hot exhaust gasses heating up my lower and upper. Too many hassles. Never worked out all of the details to *my* satisfaction.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Engine Unexplainable Exhaust Pop and Gurgle
  • Mrnissen122
  • Feb 14, 2026
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
12
Views
459
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Feb 18, 2026
Noobz347
6
Hey all,I’m putting together a 302 for my 1968 Mustang and wanted to post the combo + some questions to make sure I’m not missing crucial
  • 68_Disgustang
  • Feb 22, 2026
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
Replies
3
Views
649
1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- Feb 28, 2026
Noobz347
Drivetrain 83’ Glx convertible C5 Trans help!
  • JacksonJared2113
  • Dec 25, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
2
Views
320
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Dec 26, 2025
JacksonJared2113
S
Engine Stalls when downshifting/coasting
  • Scott_S
  • Nov 5, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
11
Views
642
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Nov 6, 2025
Mustang5L5
Engine 1990 LX 5.0L EFI Mustang Fuel Management Problems - HELP!
  • 5.0LXStanger
  • May 25, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
  • 2 3
Replies
45
Views
2K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Jul 11, 2025
5.0LXStanger
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?