Negative Wedge Kits
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mrmustangman357
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- Feb 11, 2007
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on the street with street tires a negative wedge kit wont get you much. the shelby drop,solid strut bar, and a set of roller perches are about all you need for the street IMO
zookeeper
Founding Member
Ditto. My car is the lowest vintage Mustang I've seen around here and with the 1" drop (free) A-arms, it doesn't even come close to running out of ball joint travel. Save your money for something that makes a difference and you'll be happier.
Wedge kits are a waste of money.
If you need a wedge kit, you need better control arms.
If you need a wedge kit, you need better control arms.
I'm glad I asked first 
I'm a virgin to suspension mods.
So for the Shelby drop, just pop couple of holes under the originals or do I need a template for this?
I'm a virgin to suspension mods.So for the Shelby drop, just pop couple of holes under the originals or do I need a template for this?
zookeeper
Founding Member
Just a little FYI, on '67 and up Fords, your new set of holes should make a perfect rectangle with the old set, just one-inch lower. The one shown at the top of thekid760's link shows a '65-'66 car which moves the holes front-to-back (or is it back-to-front?) and does NOT form a rectangle with square corners. Also, don't use a 17/32" bit, instead used a 1/2" bit and measure carefully. It may not sound like much, but that extra 1/32" of slop can allow the A-arm mounts to move slightly, which will make the holes a lot bigger than 17/32" in a hurry once that starts.
dodgestang
Active Member
We call those parallelograms.
65-6 1 inch down and 1/8 inch towards the rear.
67+ 1 inch down
opentrackerracingproducts.com also has a template.
i would not say that the wedge kits are worthless or a waste of money at all, especially for the time they were designed and originally made. Opentracker and Maier accomplish the exact same thing by cutting a wedge out of the stock UCA's and rewelding them and Global West and other incorporate the different angle into their control arms. the Pro Motorsports wedge kits are just a more cost effective way of accomplishing this.
however, for a street car you probably won't ever need the wedge kits or re-angled control arms and the 1" control arn drop should be adequate. if you are building a street/track or even a serious street canyon carver then the wedge kits or re-angled control arms would be beneficial but only if you are dropping the control arms more than 1", usually 1.5"-1.75" is the amount you would drop the control arms with the wedge or re-angled control arms.
however, for a street car you probably won't ever need the wedge kits or re-angled control arms and the 1" control arn drop should be adequate. if you are building a street/track or even a serious street canyon carver then the wedge kits or re-angled control arms would be beneficial but only if you are dropping the control arms more than 1", usually 1.5"-1.75" is the amount you would drop the control arms with the wedge or re-angled control arms.
This is an old post but informative, Thank You. I’ve been searching for info and advice, found too much unnecessary work or pathways.
The tip on the 17/32 bit, YES - so true! I recently discovered the issue. A sharp step bit with the largest step being 1/2” - you’re good. Take your time. Worked for me.
If any of you are still willing to offer more frontend tips . . . I’m listening.
Thanks Again
Mendezinc
The tip on the 17/32 bit, YES - so true! I recently discovered the issue. A sharp step bit with the largest step being 1/2” - you’re good. Take your time. Worked for me.
If any of you are still willing to offer more frontend tips . . . I’m listening.
Thanks Again
Mendezinc
wicked93gs
15 Year Member
Old post...but I found when doing the drop you really do want a 17/32 bit...1/2" makes it a real fight to install the UCAs, ended up slightly damaging the threads on my UCA bolts...not that it matters since they only on there temporarily to be able to roll the car around till I get the new suspension.
zookeeper
Founding Member
Do your layout work carefully and 1/2" is fine. I cringe when I see people over-size holes to make up for the wrong location, especially on front end components.
wicked93gs
15 Year Member
I used a steel template from Street or Track...the layout was fine,but 1/2" makes it easy to damage the threads(....at least when I re-installed the OEM 50+ year old I6 UCAs) 17/32" is the right size. In reality, 1/32" isnt going to make any difference...even 1/16" large isnt likely to do anything, always assuming its correctly torqued down, not that you SHOULD go larger than absolutely needed.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
Bolt holes with a slip fit are always drilled slightly larger than the fastener anyway. You can't have a 0.500" bolt going into a 0.500" hole or it's zero clearance...which means interference fit. There has to be some allowance for bolt hole position tolerace as well. You could use a 33/64" if you really wanted to, but that makes the hole positioning more critical.
zookeeper
Founding Member
I've only been a machinist a few decades so I don't know everything. However I do know that a 1/2" drill bit will drill .001-.004 oversize which is plenty to put a half inch bolt (that typically measures .003-.005 undersize) into.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
I'm not telling anyone what they can or can't do. I'm saying why things are, or in this case were, done a particular way.
zookeeper
Founding Member
No problem but here's the real point: it's always good practice to use the smallest hole possible. Trust me, as an aircraft machinist, I understand tolerances and how they apply. But the general thinking here is that a tight bolt will hold it in place and that's not true. Excess hole size will allow the bolt to move under heavy loads, which will further oversize the hole. It's just my experience, but in the end, it's your car.
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