New 130 amp not charging? PLEASE HELP ASAP

Do you have 12 volts to the stator wire when you turn your ignition on?

If you can not make sense of the diagrams, I may not be much help to you. But here goes...



Note: all voltage measurements use the chassis as the ground. When you make a voltage measurement, it is assumed that one voltmeter lead is connected to ground.

Notice the ignition switch in the lower RH corner of the diagram. It has a red/lt green wire that goes to the alternator warning light. It should have 12 volts when the ignition switch is in the run position. No 12 volts and the ignition switch is bad. This is the signal that tells the regulator to turn on and supply current to the alternator field windings.

Turn the ignition switch off & disconnect the small plug on the alternator. You will find 3 wires: white/black, yellow/white & lt green/red. The yellow/white wire should have 12 volts on it. No 12 volts and the fuse link shown in the diagram is open.

Next make sure the ignition switch is on and measure the voltage on the lt green/red wire. It should be 12 volts. No 12 volts and the wire is broken, or the 500 ohm resistor and dash indicator lamp is bad.

Turn the ignition switch off, and measure the resistance between the lt green wire and the red/lt green wire on the ignition switch. You should see 500 ohms or less. More than the 500 ohms indicates bad wiring or a bad connection.

Next disconnect the plug with the 2 black/orange wires and the white/black wire. Measure the resistance between the white/black wire on the big plug with the black/orange wires and the white/ black wire smaller plug with the lt green/red, yellow/white wires. It should be less than 1 ohm. More than that indicates bad wiring or bad connection in the white/black wire.

That's your problem then. You have 12 on the thick wire and green wire, that's good. They should both have 12 volts constant, meaning even when the ignition is off. The center wire of the 3 wire plug I believe is white. That wire should have 12 volts when you turn the ignition on. That wire is also spliced to go to the small one-wire hookup on the alternator, which is the stator wire. If you don't have 12 volts here, you won't get any output from the alternator.

this might be easier to decipher:

jerryD said:

this might be easier to decipher:

Click to expand...

Great drawing, except for using the black/orange wires. They definitely need to be replaced with a 4 gauge wire & fuse.

jrichker said:

Great drawing, except for usuing the black/orange wires. They definitely need to be replaced with a 4 gauge wire & fuse.

Click to expand...

Please heed this warning. This was the topic of much theoretical debate on this forum a many moons ago. Well it hasn't even been a full month since I watched an 85 practically burn itself up at the quickie mart just down the street. All fusible links and the black and orange wires went up in smoke due to what appeared to be an internal problem with a 160 amp alt. Owner tells me it had been installed like that for more than year with "No Probems". Wish I had a dollar for every time I heard THAT on this forum. I would really liked to have had the time to take pics of the carnage and troubleshoot it down to the exact cause.

i didn't make the pic, just got it from some other board. if you know how or want to take the time to photochop it and add the 4awg wire you may. repost it and i'll start using that pic. is it still gonna harm anything if the two black/orange wires are still used along with the 4awg wire?

jrichker said:

Great drawing, except for using the black/orange wires. They definitely need to be replaced with a 4 gauge wire & fuse.

Click to expand...

Yes it will, because if something should happen causing the fuse in the 4g wire to blow, now you're still connected by only the small factory wires and you have whatever problem caused the main fuse to blow. This equals a risk high enough that you're almost guaranteed things burning up.

I also dont agree with the [several-many] articles that have one run the new cable in parallel to the oem cable. The stock cable doesnt effectively add anything, so I have no clue why anyone would consider using it.

The issue seems to lie in wondering if the stock circuit protection will blow before the rest of the existing wire [or the links themselves] catch on fire. It's kinda' ironic.

Good luck.