New best ET at the track for me :)

Great68 · Sep 3, 2005

Well, I finally got a powertrax no-slip locker and 3.55's in my car, and ran a best at the track of 14.94 @ 95 mph on my first run. 60' time was a ****ty 2.4, no traction and a lot of wheel hop. I know it's still nothing to brag about but I'm happy so far.

Then I found out that I had inadvertently plugged my vacuum advance into the manifold vacuum port on the carb so I had around 30 degrees timing at idle.

I fixed that, so my timing was back to 13 degrees initial and then ran consistent 15.0's @94's the rest of the night, continuing with the crappy 2.4 60' times.

Also my tranny was giving me a strange problem, I was shifting manually from 1st to 2nd at around 5600-6000rpm and then the transmission would shift by itself (while the shifter was still in 2nd gear) to 3rd gear at around 5000 rpm WEIRD!! Any ideas why this might be??

And after doing the resistor wire fix, I no longer have stuttering and backfiring issues at 5200rpm, the motor revs clean to 6 grand.

I think I need to crank the base timing up, and fool around with my carb mixture and then fix the tranny issue and my times should drop even more. I think there's a lot more potential there.

Bullitt · Sep 3, 2005

cool!

i wouldn't go too much past 14 initial. sometimes you can have starting issues if everything isn't setup just right.

what you might do though is look at getting your distributor recurved. the engine evidentally liked the more advanced timing (from your mph), so if you got more advance earlier (say all in by 2500 rpm or so) and have a total around 36 degrees i think you'd be good to go.

steel1212 · Sep 3, 2005

Thats what I did. I have the fastest curve msd has and my car loves it. It gets to 38 total I think with 10 initial comeing it at about 2400 rpms. I can't wait until I get my new aluminum rad so I can go back to the track with out over heating!

Great68 · Sep 3, 2005

Thaks for the tips guys

I am running the 2nd fastest curve in my MSD distributor (1 light silver and 1 light blue spring) so all timing should be in by 2500 RPM, as well I'm using the blue advance stop bushing so I should get 21 degrees mechanical advance. I'm also running 94 octane.

I have been reading that some of the EFI guys have been running something like 16-18 degrees initial and 40 or more degrees total with their AFR's.

I think I'm loosing a lot of energy in the launch, I mean the 2.4 second 60' time is horrendous and the wheel hop I experienced felt like the rear end was going to rip out from under me. I thought the locker would help with traction (I was worried I wouldn't even be able to break the tires loose), but evidently not as much hahaha.

I think some traction bars are in order in the future.

Also, do you think it's a good idea to lower tire pressures? I am running 36 psi in my BFG Comp T/A VR4's.

For now I want to get the 289 into the mid - low 14's to tide me over until I'm finished school and have money to build a dart block 347.

69Rcode_Mach1 · Sep 3, 2005

Yeah it sounds like you definitely have some traction issues. With that combo you should be able to get low 13's with decent traction. Sounds like its time to tune.

302 coupe · Sep 3, 2005

I think you need a looser torque converter, even with the 262 cam. The tight factory converter will spin the tires alot easier than an aftermarket unit. You can lower tire pressure down to about 27-28 psi, should help a little, don't go too low with radials, they will cup in at the bottom if you go too low.

What your launch technique? Are you just flooring it out of the hole? You might to try launching at 2000 rpm or so (holding the brakes), when the lights drop let off the brakes but don't give it any more throttle, the front end will rise, then as the front stops rising, roll back into the throttle as quick as you can without spinning.

I also think you may have some tuning issues. You have alot more motor than me, but I run over second quicker in the 1/4 on a 2.03 60ft (225/60 radials). You'll get it figured out though, should be good for some mid 13's I'd imagine.

steel1212 · Sep 3, 2005

According to my msd chart if your running one light silver and one blue spring your total is comeing in at about 3200 rpms and with the blue only advancing about 21 degrees. Why not replace the blue bushing for atleast the silver and see what that does and go with the 2 light silver springs to advance it like mine at 2300ish?

I think your best bet would be to invest in either a good set of dr or find another pair of wheels with some slicks. DRs will run you close to 300 or so unless you can find a good deal on them. As far as running lower psi on street tires I'm not real sure on it. I would lower it down to say 25 or so psi and see what that does for you. My 60s are the best the last time I went out with the old heads but I was in the 2.0 area. If my new heads don't over power my DRs I think I could be down in the 1.8s or so.

Great68 · Sep 3, 2005

302 coupe said:
I think you need a looser torque converter, even with the 262 cam. The tight factory converter will spin the tires alot easier than an aftermarket unit. You can lower tire pressure down to about 27-28 psi, should help a little, don't go too low with radials, they will cup in at the bottom if you go too low.

What your launch technique? Are you just flooring it out of the hole? You might to try launching at 2000 rpm or so (holding the brakes), when the lights drop let off the brakes but don't give it any more throttle, the front end will rise, then as the front stops rising, roll back into the throttle as quick as you can without spinning.

Next time I go out I will try what you suggest and not add throttle when I let go of the brakes. Right now I have just been spooling up the converter a small amount (1200 rpm or so), and then punching the gas when the light goes green.

I don't want to put money into a converter now, I want to keep the stocker until I build a new motor or decide whether I want to go 5spd or not (which means I'd have to loose my stock center console).

Great68 · Sep 3, 2005

steel1212 said:
According to my msd chart if your running one light silver and one blue spring your total is comeing in at about 3200 rpms and with the blue only advancing about 21 degrees. Why not replace the blue bushing for atleast the silver and see what that does and go with the 2 light silver springs to advance it like mine at 2300ish?

I will give the silver bushing and silver advance springs a shot, it's pretty easy to swap

Next and last street legal drag event of the season is on the 23rd, so I'll fiddle with it and see if I get an improvement

Maxamil · Sep 5, 2005

The lowering of your gears also didnt help out your traction either. I think your biggest hurdles is your tuning and your traction. I suggest you getting some cal-tracs and getting your turning down and you should get to low 13s.

12sec67 · Sep 5, 2005

i want to share some of
10secgoals theory:

set the timing at your desired point (15 initial and 38 total recomended by me)

run the 1/4 (same shift points every time)

keep jetting up the carb little by little till the MPH stops going up...and the times will follow

worked for me

your MPH should be higher than normal without traction vs with traction-
i think you should be hitting at least 103 with AFR's

could you post your slip so we can analyze it

10secgoal · Sep 5, 2005

Great68 said:
Next time I go out I will try what you suggest and not add throttle when I let go of the brakes. Right now I have just been spooling up the converter a small amount (1200 rpm or so), and then punching the gas when the light goes green.

This is how mine likes it. I take it to about 1500-1600 though. Then it flashes to like 3400. If I stall it higher, that just doesn't like it, or react well. It likes the running start at the converter. You'll just have to figure which it likes when you stop if from spinning. Expect it to maybe bog when it hooks.

Also for the timing, try to advance it as far as you can get it with the initial. The difference between 12 and 18 is night and day. Mine still starts with 19 deg ans the battery in the trunk.

Maxamil · Sep 5, 2005

What does that mean when you say it "flashes"? Do your RPMs jump to 3400 all of the sudden??

12sec67 · Sep 5, 2005

i hold rpms at 2000 then romp on it with my drag radials, 2400 or with the slicks.

with street tires i used to just go from an idle, it helped a little better for traction.

converter is based on torque pressure- high stalls require a bigger torque load to lock the conerter. 10secgoals converter wont lock up or (flashes till) 3400 mine on the other hand locks up about 2500-2600rpms :damnit:

Great68 · Sep 5, 2005

12sec67 said:
could you post your slip so we can analyze it

No problem:

R/T: .545
60': 2.471
330: 6.536
1/8: 9.766
MPH: 76.48
1000: 12.567
1/4: 14.942
MPH: 94.97

thehueypilot · Sep 5, 2005

If you raise the rpm too much in final staging (w/o trans brake) your car may creep on you causing a "red" light. I can only hold mine to 2k and anything more it starts over powering the brakes. Timing may help but A/F ratio might need to be adjusted some.

steel1212 · Sep 5, 2005

I ran almost a half second faster than you but the same mph. Your 60 needs help and I would say you have more hp than I did the last time out. I would say get your traction down, which is a gimmie, and your going to gain big time. Would it be possible for you to get a set of spare rims with some slicks or purchase some drag radials?

Great68 · Sep 5, 2005

steel1212 said:
I ran almost a half second faster than you but the same mph. Your 60 needs help and I would say you have more hp than I did the last time out. I would say get your traction down, which is a gimmie, and your going to gain big time. Would it be possible for you to get a set of spare rims with some slicks or purchase some drag radials?

Since my track is only open for one more event this year, I will probably get some drag radials for next season during the off-season.

10secgoal · Sep 5, 2005

One more event ? Just wait till next year. Unless you go through the trouble of sealing the tires up. don't want them to get weathered before next year.

10secgoal · Sep 5, 2005

Maxamil said:
What does that mean when you say it "flashes"? Do your RPMs jump to 3400 all of the sudden??

It's kinda like pushing a refrigerator. Lean in to it, and push until it moves. Or get a running start. Some cars like the running start, and some like the push. Foot braking, it has been my experience it is harder to get a car to hook if it is flashing rather than stalling full tilt.

New best ET at the track for me :)

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