New best MPH & ET...questions too...

axeman- sounds cool definatly let me know when your going, hopefully the blancer will be fixed by then & I can get some more track time to get the MPH up.
I should have my alum. DS /saftey loop/ upper control arms/24#ers/MAF done by then if it's not sub zero all winter (no garage:()

Blancer doesn't wobble at all, looks perfectly normal besides the fact it's timing marks are just flat inaccurate. This will make my third balancer since I had the car, it's getting really old now!

tony- glad you found a balancer you could use, I'm gonna dig around & see if I can find something decent for under 2 bills.

Mid January??? Winter last 2 weeks there in cali LOL

Thanks again everyone.
mike
 
Mike I can get you a good deal on a Pioneer SFI approved balancer, pretty nice piece, and under your price range ;)

When you said spun balancer I mis read it earlier..man I wouldn't run that way at all!
 
Ditto the above on the spun balancer. Best bet would be to rotate the crank with the sparkplug out and section of coat hanger in the hole to get an best guess at TDC (Guess because it's a PITA in the car). Verify that with the balancer position and tweak the marker to the correct position. In my case I went with the OEM replacement balancer from Ford for $99.

Heard and seen scary things abour pioneer balancers...

Jamie

Jamie
 
Ranchero5.0 said:
Ditto the above on the spun balancer. Best bet would be to rotate the crank with the sparkplug out and section of coat hanger in the hole to get an best guess at TDC (Guess because it's a PITA in the car). Verify that with the balancer position and tweak the marker to the correct position. In my case I went with the OEM replacement balancer from Ford for $99.

Heard and seen scary things abour pioneer balancers...

Jamie

yeah I hear you there, tony on this thread had one & had basically the same problem. His was supposedly a SFI pinned version.

as far as the coat hanger trick that's exactly what I did. That's how I figured on 27* inital. The balancer seemed 12* out so I added 15 & viola, it runs better through the whole RPM range now. I think I need to get some fuel in there now to get it to run what I expected it to.

I did make a piston stop out of an old spark plug so I can get as close as possible to TDC but it's been to friggin cold to mess with it.

Mike
 
Mis-marked balancers seem to be a common problem. I think it has to do with the same reason people degree camshafts. Everything being off some results in a lot when the whole package is considered.

I am really suffering racer's withdraw. I go from at the track every weekend to just an ordinary smuck driving his bone stock truck every day. It's worse for me, my motor is sitting in a tire on the garage floor. I am faced with the delima, but there is only one road for me. I could just rebuild the engine, throw it back togeather and be done with it, or do it right. How right I want to do it is the question now. I would pull my hair out but it is too short.
 
90mustangGT said:
Mis-marked balancers seem to be a common problem. I think it has to do with the same reason people degree camshafts. Everything being off some results in a lot when the whole package is considered.

I am really suffering racer's withdraw. I go from at the track every weekend to just an ordinary smuck driving his bone stock truck every day. It's worse for me, my motor is sitting in a tire on the garage floor. I am faced with the delima, but there is only one road for me. I could just rebuild the engine, throw it back togeather and be done with it, or do it right. How right I want to do it is the question now. I would pull my hair out but it is too short.

Well it's not really mis-marked , it's just spun, it was dead nuts right on when it was new & even say spring before last, seems to have gave up the ghost after that though.

What's the condition of the motor? If there are no ridges in the cylinders, just hone it, throw new rings in it, check the crank & have it polished, new bearings pump etc & call it a day.May want to have piston/rods check as well but you get what I'm saying. Just make sure you check all yor tolerances when your putting it back together.
 
Jamie what bad things have you seen with the Pioneers. I've had a good bit of them come through my shop, no issues at all and fit and finish were great. I'd say they are right there with a Romac.
 
Cold? What cold? ;) Hopeflly you learned something from my little experience.... Save up for the best balancer you can buy instead of going cheap! I got lucky with this deal on the FRPP steel balancer. A good balancer, if bought in the frigg'in first place, would have cost less at $300-400 in the long run if i added up all of the time & money spent figuring out this little mess....
 
Tony - :chair: :p you don't have to gloat so much :lol:

I'm going to give this power bond a shot from Rickki, I've been
searching for problems with the powerbonds & haven't seen anything yet.
I'm also going to get an SFI as a little preventative medicine, this is how
powerbond says they are made.

These balancers are constructed of forged steel inner and outer housings with an elastic ring in between. They feature a laser welded retaining ring to prevent the outer ring from separating. All of these feature SFI certification making them legal for most racing organizations. All listed below are chrome plated.

If i'm reading this right this means that it can't slip or come off. If I get it & I can see how it can still slip I'll tack weld the MF'er in place if need be!!!! :flame:
 
heh,heh,heh.... good one. I'm not gloating right this moment....I'm actually anxiously looking at the clock; 40 minutes until I'm on the road to the drag strip!;)

I'm aware of the SFI Powerbond balancers; Brother's performance sells them for $228.00 if my memory serves me correctly. I don't know of anyone using one. I contacted a friend of mine whom works there. He stated that they have only been selling them for two months now because of customer complaints regarding the Fluidampners; seems when it's cold outside the internal fluids can freeze & you get one heck of a vibration issue until it warms up. The Pioneer unit is the one they decided to use to replace the "hole" left in thier catalog for an inexpensive balancer. He mentioned that they have not had any returns & they are using them on thier personal cars with zero problems.... So, I would assume that they might be pretty good units. Take the info for what it's worth....
 
We got some snow but nothing enough to really put a damper on anything, beside's all the road salt:( I wish this damned Volvo I bought was running better or I'd be driving that everyday. Good thing is that I have an adjustable boost controller for it :D

Have you talked to mike at all about 5.0tech? This sucks!

I'm glad I haven't heard anything bad about this powerbond so far... maybe Jamie will chime back in & let us know what he's heard.
 
MSTANG said:
We got some snow but nothing enough to really put a damper on anything, beside's all the road salt:( I wish this damned Volvo I bought was running better or I'd be driving that everyday. Good thing is that I have an adjustable boost controller for it :D

Have you talked to mike at all about 5.0tech? This sucks!

I'm glad I haven't heard anything bad about this powerbond so far... maybe Jamie will chime back in & let us know what he's heard.

Mike got the 50tech forums back up.
http://www.50tech.com/forums/index.php
 
here is the balancer i bought for the 306

123-2352_IMG.JPG


123-2347_IMG.JPG


:D
 
Mike and Rick, my builder had one come apart on him a while back. He's also afraid of scat products too after taking a running 383 cheby apart and having the crank come out in three pieces...

Mike, reread your quote. The balancer has a laser welded retaining ring to keep the balancer from exploding when it fails. WTF is that about?

Jamie
 
Well hell scat products are supposed to be pretty good parts, I wouldn't discount them on one bad one especially a chevy :D J/k lol

Seriously though isn't that the requirement for an SFI spec piece? To make sure it all stays together even if it fails?

have you heard any other feedback besides what your builder has comunicated to you? Any extenuating circumstances?
 
It seems there are many balancers out there that are SFI spec & yet are obviously two piece units. Even my FRPP unit is a steel two piece unit!
Shawn; that PP balancer you have is the less expensive "powerforce 8000" series unit. The one that failed on me was the "Powerforce+ 9000" series unit. Mine only lasted about 6 months; so beware.
If link works; my unit that spun.... http://www.professional-products.com/Powerforce_damper.gif

Just for the hell of it; I ran last night at the track. I didn't feel like tuning; so I just bolted on the 26x8.5 slicks & ran it as it was. I was pleasantly suprised to run [email protected] at 2710ft elev. I had reinstalled the front swaybar with poly bushings & stiff KYB shocks in the rear because the Koni red's were plum wore out. I had figured these changes would have slowed weight transfer & hurt et's. Only thing I can think off that makes any kind of sense was the fact the DA was good & the extra 9hp from the dyno session a couple weeks ago made up the difference....