New clutch adjustment

[QDRHRSE]

I'm having a hell of a time getting my new centerforce dual friction clutch adjusted. It's been a couple of years since I've done a clutch so I expected to have a hard time but this is getting ridiculous. I also installed a 9lb aluminum flywheel as well. I can't seem to get it right. I don't remember it being so hard to do.

At first I couldn't get the car in gear while it was running- so I tightened it up. Then went into gear like butter but it slipped as soon as I got on it hard. How much break in does one of these things need? I've been going back and forth with the adjustment and I can't seem to get it right. What could I have done wrong? Is it possible to put the disc in backwards? This is so weird because I have done my fair share of clutches and I've never had this problem. Everything was an ordeal down to the stupid 26 spline input shaft the G-Force has. Anybody want to buy a new 10 spline (stock Mustang) Centerforce DF clutch?

 

[srothfuss]

I can't help (I never can) but wouldn't you know I'll be putting a new clutch in next winter when I rebuild my motor...


Also, I just wanted to say that I drove my car yesterday. It was awesome! Thanks again!

 

[QDRHRSE]

I'm glad all that stuff worked out for you. When you get around to putting in a new clutch I highly recommend the King Cobra. For a car with 300rwhp or less its absolutely the best you can do. There may be better clutches but the Ford units work good, have a great feel, and install easy.

 

[v8only]

you're putting out a ton of power, and you have to be very careful for break in. Break in is I believe 500 miles, and try to do stop and go driving.

It can slip during break in, hopefully you didn't slip it too bad, as that can ruin it, and glaze the disc and flywheel. when a clutch is new, it isn't perfectly flat. The flywheel is. For this reason, a new clutch disc MUST be broken in, as it won't mate and sit 100% flat on the flywheel until it's broken in. too much gas on launch, or even while driving can slip the clutch.

read the link in my sig for a TON of adjustment info, however, here is the quicky advice.....

Let your foot rest on the clutch pedal. Now, softly move your foot up and down. your foot will naturally stop at the disengagement point. If you can't feel this, you may already be too tight.

Once you get the feel for that point where your clutch disengages up top, you're ready.

Adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch off the floor or so. If the cable is TOO loose, it won't go into gear easily as you described, and will pick up RIGHT off the floor. So long as you have to let up a little off the floorboards before the car goes forward, it's adjusted so it disengages all the way.

NOW, for up-top, now that you have the feel for when your clutch begins to disengage, just be sure that you haven't tightened the cable so much that it's constantly disengaging. You must have at least a tiny bit of mush/travel before the pedal gets stiffer.

Besides that, you're completely free to adjust the clutch within those two points to your comfort.

do that, and drive it carefully, and you should be fine, best of luck!!

 

[Shauns GT]

Im wondering if i have a clutch problem. I installed the centerforce dual friction clutch last year and it appeared to be working ok as i had to not only break in the new clutch but a new engine as well so for normal stop and go driving i had no problems, then when they were broken in i replaced my rear gears with 373s and had to break those it too. now that everything should be ready to go i noticed when i accelerate hard in a straight line and go for a 2nd gear speed shift it grinds into second. it also seems more often than not i cant get into reverse with out grinding. I have the stock T5 with stock cable. does this sound like a clutch, cable or tranny problem?

 

[93 teal terror]

For these reasons and as little power as im making, I went back to a stock quadrent setup. Clutch is adjusted perfectly and if I need to adjust it, I dont have to leave the drivers seat

 

[v8only]

For these reasons and as little power as im making, I went back to a stock quadrent setup. Clutch is adjusted perfectly and if I need to adjust it, I dont have to leave the drivers seat

Really, once you understand the adjustments, the aftermarket setup is so much nicer. I like to control my adjustment points, only because I don't like where the stock oem quadrant grabs the clutch. I prefer the clutch to grab closer off the floor. This aids me greatly when starting off on a hard launch.

Im wondering if i have a clutch problem. I installed the centerforce dual friction clutch last year and it appeared to be working ok as i had to not only break in the new clutch but a new engine as well so for normal stop and go driving i had no problems, then when they were broken in i replaced my rear gears with 373s and had to break those it too. now that everything should be ready to go i noticed when i accelerate hard in a straight line and go for a 2nd gear speed shift it grinds into second. it also seems more often than not i cant get into reverse with out grinding. I have the stock T5 with stock cable. does this sound like a clutch, cable or tranny problem?

Reverse gear has no sincros. Therefore, a little grind is normal. However, a properly adjusted clutch will grind little to none going into reverse. Read the link in my sig, and that will help you decide if your clutch adjustment is good right now.

Grind going into gear is 99.9% of the time NOT an adjustment. That's your second gear sincros telling you they've gone out for a lunch break and are not returning. The more you drive it, the more you stand a chance of busting second gear, which honestly, almost always happens anyhow.

Rebuild will be needed. Good news is, your clutch should be ok, and rebuilds for t5's are cheap. Brave it yourself, go to hanlonmotorsports.com and get your own rebuild kit with a how to video for $200. If you don't want to go that route, find a shop locally who knows mustangs and t5's. I have a couple of shops who will rebuild it $350 out the door (I take it off the car and put it back on)

Depending on how stout your new motor is, it may be consideration time for a tremec or gforce.

 

[QDRHRSE]

Thanks for the info. I'll try it out. I had to really thread the nut on the end of the cable way on. I'm a little scared of overtightening and ruining the clutch. I had the car on the lift and I tightened it until I could have the clutch in and my foot on the brake, with the car running, and not stalling. I hope that makes sense.

So what you were saying is that I may have had the clutch perfect the first time but I was a little over zealous with my foot and thus it slipped because it is not broken in. I got it. Hopefully I didn't glaze the disc. I hammered it for less than 1/8 of a mile. The next day I loosened it up and carefully drove home. It was raining and I'm not sure if it was slipping or spinning. I guess I'll figure it out.

Thanks again!

Tom

 

[HISSIN50]

Tom, if adjusting the cable while under the car, I used to put my pinkie finger around the cable (at the fork) and pull on it. When I could no longer pull on the cable and make it move, I was approaching having all slack removed. Then go a hair tighter. The cable will start to preload before you actually are pulling the fork/TOB appreciably against the Diaphram fingers.

Jeremy's opinion might differ - that is just how I used to do it.

BTW, Jeremy, thanks for all your input on choosing components, etc on my 88. I am very happy with the feel.

 

[v8only]

i'm sure it's fine.

the easiest way to tell if it's too tight, just loosen up the adjustment. You'll feel all that slop, and loose clutch pedal up top. slowly depress. suddenly, about the same height as the brake pedal, it gets a little stiffer. that's where it disengages. now tighten the cable, press the pedal, so long as it has some of that "slop" up top, you're good to go, best of luck!!!

 

[v8only]

Tom, if adjusting the cable while under the car, I used to put my pinkie finger around the cable (at the fork) and pull on it. When I could no longer pull on the cable and make it move, I was approaching having all slack removed. Then go a hair tighter. The cable will start to preload before you actually are pulling the fork/TOB appreciably against the Diaphram fingers.

Jeremy's opinion might differ - that is just how I used to do it.

BTW, Jeremy, thanks for all your input on choosing components, etc on my 88. I am very happy with the feel.

sounds good to me.

glad your stuff turned out ok, wish I could say the same I'm in the garage now with the upper end taken apart...this sucks

 

[HISSIN50]

sounds good to me.

glad your stuff turned out ok, wish I could say the same I'm in the garage now with the upper end taken apart...this sucks

I have been following along Jeremy - I just did not have any great input.

WHen you get it the intake all put back together, but before you hook up the vac lines to the intake, I have kind of a down and dirty test you can do (sealing the intake up, except for a vac gauge attached to one vac nipple. Then crank the motor and watch the vac reading). It can be helpful in seeing if the gaskets are air tight. It may or may not be helpful.

Good luck with it bud.

 

[v8only]

That sounds good, I'll be getting back to you for sure.

I took the upper and lower off simply to drill for the act and the egr coolant line.

while I'm fairly certain it's not my problem, every problem I eliminate I get one step closer. For example, I found my return line completely kinked and blocked off. Fixed that. Now I'm drilling for act and egr line. B4, the act was just laying on top of the intake. while I pulled the upper and lower apart, I found that my intake spacer had no hole in the center predrilled for the egr gasses to flow through the intake. Again, I don't believe that to be the problem. However, with every little thing that I dial out and check off my list, I'm one step closer.

I was thinking about blocking off all vacuum lines except for just map and fuel pressure anyhow. I can't wait to try your test... I just have to wait for my father to get back from vietnam (old vetern on a nastalgia return vacation) to come back with his taps and drills and help me with that intake. Should be about a week..>be in touch, Jeremy

 

[93 teal terror]

Really, once you understand the adjustments, the aftermarket setup is so much nicer. I like to control my adjustment points, only because I don't like where the stock oem quadrant grabs the clutch. I prefer the clutch to grab closer off the floor. This aids me greatly when starting off on a hard launch.

It really makes no difference for me where it grabs, just as long as its not chewing up cables, extremely stiff and letting out at the very top, Im happy. I dont need an adjustible setup, too much hassle for what I use the car for