New Clutch Install "home installation"

Good to hear.sometimes they just need a lil man handling...so to speak.I did something similar to the way you did it,but I cant use my legs for those kinds of things,I have nerve damage so that would be very painful for me.

Just remember to break it in before beatin on it.No launches,keep it under 3k for about the first 500 miles.
 
1. Drop exhaust out of the way
2. Unplug speed sensor, clutch cable, and any other wiring that may be zip tied to Transmission
3. Remove shifter
4. Remove G load Brace
5. Remove Trans cross-member
6. Transmission Bolts: 2 Bolts on top, 2 bolts on bottom, 3 bolts on starter, 3 bolts on left, 2 bolts on right.
7. Should slide right out

P.S. Don't put that 3rd starter bolt back in, you'll thank yourself later.

Thats all from memory so hopefully that should do it.....Good luck

therei is a very simple way to get that hidden third bolt out and in in seconds...

Take the h-pipe down first. Now you can get your left hand up on top of the starter (lay on the ground, feet toward rear, head toward front) and feel the bolt head, and use your right hand with a 1/4" ratchet with the right extension to reach that bolt. Use left hand to guide socket onto bolt and pull it out. Putting it back in is just as easy. Use your left hand to put it in the hole and then guide the socket onto the head. Or use a paper towel in the socket before inserting the bolt so the socket will grab onto the bolt, and again use the right hand to guide the socket wrench to the right area, and the left hand to guide the bolt right into the hole. It really can be taken out and put back in in under 60 seconds this way...
 
I finally got the top 2 transmission bolts loose and pulled the transmission out of the car last night. What a pita that was. I had to lower both the engine and transmission in order to clear the tunnel and slide it out. Here's a picture of my car sitting on 4 - 3 1/2 ton jack stands with a hydraulic jack supporting the engine. I rolled the transmission out under the front left fenderwell.

I'm elated that I got the thing out on my own. I guess the real excitment begins when I try to put the thing back in.

Anyone ever try using an air compressor to remove the release bearing? Seems i've heard this somewhere before.

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One more note... once you pull the tranny, the motor will "rock" forward with that weight off the back. It is a real PITA to get the tranny back in, trying to get the clutch release fingers to clear the tranny input shaft, etc. Trick is to take a floor jack and a piece of 2x4. Stand the 2x4 on its end on the floor jack and put it under the harmonic balancer and jack it up enough to tilt the engine backward. Now the tranny will go in without the "ear" clearance issues on the transmission tunnel. Once you get the input shaft past the clutch release fingers, you can remove the floor jack in front to let the motor level out. It is easier to get the transmission back in with both motor and transmission level with the floor, then it will just slide in.

I took a 2x4 and cut it to length so that it just touches the back of the bellhousing, and lets the transmission sit level on the floor jack. I took a hammer to bang the 2x4 to clear the little ridges here and there so that there was no tendency to rock back and forth, which is painful if it rocks toward you and you are not expecting it...
 
Well everything is finally back together. When I get off work this afternoon I'll lower the car and take it out for a spin. I don't know if i'm just paranoid or what but the engine looks like it's tilting back (towards the firewall) but when i'm under the car, everything is bolted up properly.

I did use the plywood method under the front of the oil pan to tilt the motor for tranny clearance. I figured it out when trying to slide the spline in past the fingers.